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Lug Nut Info

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  #1  
Old 02-12-2013, 10:43 AM
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Lug Nut Info

A couple o' questions:

I got some new wheels from a friend [for dirt cheap] I'm going to put on my 2010 GE, and I'm a rookie at tuner wheels/lugs/etc.


- The wheel manufacturer specifically states these wheels require "tuner-style" lugs. Any brands I should go for, or stay away from?

- When choosing lugs, considering the wheels are not Honda OEM, should I still go by the Honda [acorn type] specs for lugs, or go strictly by what type of lug nut the wheel manufacturer recommends for a specific wheel?


I'm not exactly sure which matters... the actual lug nut posts, the wheel itself, or both?

Also, does Honda GE-specific torque specs come into play here on a 3rd-party wheel? IF so, what are the torque specs? I'm thinking the torque specs are lug post specific, right?

Excuse the 50,000 questions. I just don't want to screw up brand new wheels, or my lug posts.

Thanks
 

Last edited by annunC8; 02-12-2013 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:15 AM
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In this case, both the lugnut seat on the wheel and the wheel stud spec/thread pitch are important.

Some wheels have a unique indentation around the lugnut seat, which requires a special lugnut that matches up (usually made by the wheel manufacturer). A lot of times though, the case is just that you need spline drive lugnuts because there isn't enough clearance around the lugnut to get a normal-size socket in there.

Sounds like in the case of your wheels that it's just a clearance issue, so I'd just buy a namebrand set of tuner lugnuts and as long as they're 12x1.5 you should be good.

I've been using the McGuards linked above for the past 5 years on my track car with no issues, and have been through 6 different wheel/tire setups. I just use factory torque specs when installing wheels on my car and have never gone wrong. BUT one important thing with to remember the McGuards since they're aluminum is to NEVER use an air/impact gun to tighten them, just stick with a good old fashioned breaker bar, tire iron, or some other hand tool. This applies to most other lightweight tuner lugs as well.

It would help to know what wheels you have specifically in order to give a more definitive answer though. Hope that helps!
 

Last edited by Evbot_DET; 02-12-2013 at 11:18 AM. Reason: Forgot to mention some stuff
  #3  
Old 02-12-2013, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Evbot_DET
In this case, both the lugnut seat on the wheel and the wheel stud spec/thread pitch are important...
It would help to know what wheels you have specifically in order to give a more definitive answer though. Hope that helps!
The wheels are XXR 518 (ultra light), machine-faced, 16x6.5, 40 offset, "tuner" wheels. A friend bought them, sold the ride he bought them for, then sold them to me, brand new, for only $35.00 per wheel... in the boxes with center caps, covers, and everything that came with the wheels.

I talked with the XXR people this morning, and the guy said they recommend (or "demand") either Gorilla or McGard, or they would be reluctant to warranty their products should something lug-related happen to the wheels.

He also told me they require "tuner or spline" lug nuts. (He was Asian with a heavy accent, and I had a difficult time understanding him... the help number was in California.) He said I didn't need any other info.

When he says "spline" I'm assuming he means "spline drive". Forgive me but, I thought "spline and tuner" were one in the same. I mean, aren't "tuner" lugs just that... "tuner lugs"?

Anyway, when I searched both Gorilla and McGard's sites they both asked the depth, the type of seat, and another detail about the lugs needed. They had a selection for 12x1.50, but the other drop-down selection(s) for choosing the proper lugs I have no clue about.

I will tell you the wheel's holes are deeper than the stock Fit Sport wheels. They have what looks and feels to be a 45 degree angle (bevel?) down into the hole where the lugs would seat on the posts... it's not flush. It's not curved as in to accommodate a rounded acorn shape lug... it's a straight-cut 45 degree angle.

I know this probably all sounds somewhat vague, but it's the best info I can give you considering the Asian wheel guy gave me no more info... and like I said, I could barely understand him. He was getting irritated with me for asking him "I'm sorry" and "Excuse me" so many times when I didn't understand him... so I thanked him and ended the call!

Anyway, thanks again for the help!
 

Last edited by annunC8; 02-12-2013 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:21 PM
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These are spline drive lugnuts


You use these if the lugnut is going to be recessed in the wheel and you can't get a conventional wrench on it because it's too wide. That is what that drive attachment is for.

You need acorn lug nuts, not ball.

Not all "tuner" lug nuts use splines.

You can also use "keyed" lug nuts, but I think splines are better.

Make sure you get the right thread pitch (12x1.5).
 
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:31 PM
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I'd definitely go with McGard. I had Gorilla my first year at the track (was also using a set of XXR's at the time; 962's) and ruined more than a couple studs. The machining (and everything else) on the McGards is much better quality. They also have a spinning shank, which allows them to seat nice and firmly without scuffing up the lugnut seat area of the wheel.

As for the term "tuner lugs", that may have actually meant something at one point in time, but now it's just an over-used, generic term for any aftermarket lugnut.
 
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by annunC8
They have what looks and feels to be a 45 degree angle (bevel?) down into the hole where the lugs would seat on the posts... it's not flush. It's not curved as in to accommodate a rounded acorn shape lug... it's a straight-cut 45 degree angle.
Also, acorn shaped lugs aren't rounded, they are angled, ball lugs are rounded (like stock lugs).



"tapered" is probably a more fitting name, but just FYI if someone says "acorn" instead, that's what they mean.


Edit: minuswell include this link as well to help:
http://www.brandsport.com/howdoifirilu.html
 
  #7  
Old 02-12-2013, 06:23 PM
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Hey folks, thanks much for all of the input.

I guess I will go with McGard. I'm kinda' disappointed they don't have solid blue lugs, as opposed to all their lugs being chrome with only colored tips.

I also wanted longer lugs. I've seen colored lugs on people's wheels that stick pretty far out from the wheel... always thought it looked kinda' cool. Apparently McGard doesn't do that either. I know, probably gimmicky, or whatever, but it's different.

Ah well, if you guys think McGards are the best, I will go with those.

I was also hoping they did that neo-chrome finish on their lugs, or whatever that multi-colored chrome process is called. Those look pretty hot in certain given situations. I thought they'd look cool on the Blue Sensation GE with the black/machined face wheels I'm putting on.

Thanks again for everyone's input!


BTW, I will post installed pics as soon as I get everything and have them installed.
 

Last edited by annunC8; 02-12-2013 at 08:31 PM.
  #8  
Old 02-12-2013, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Wanderer.
Also, acorn shaped lugs aren't rounded, they are angled, ball lugs are rounded (like stock lugs).



"tapered" is probably a more fitting name, but just FYI if someone says "acorn" instead, that's what they mean.


Edit: minuswell include this link as well to help:
How do I choose the right lug nuts or wheel locks for my car?
Thanks for the definitions and info... that link comes in handy.
 
  #9  
Old 02-12-2013, 06:40 PM
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One More Question

What exactly are the torque specs for GE [Sport] lugs? I did try and find that info, and couldn't find anything I thought was definitive... I found 3 different answers from different places.

Thanks
 
  #10  
Old 02-12-2013, 07:58 PM
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60ft-lbs^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
  #11  
Old 02-12-2013, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mkane
60ft-lbs^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
WoW! Someone on another forum said it was 155 ft-lbs. That's quite the contrast!

This is why I asked here!
 
  #12  
Old 02-12-2013, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by annunC8
WoW! Someone on another forum said it was 155 ft-lbs. That's quite the contrast!


Was it a dump truck forum?

I don't know the official torque spec, I just use 80 ft-lbs, I have steel wheels though. I'm sure mkane RTFM and is probably right
 
  #13  
Old 02-13-2013, 12:46 AM
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I know the owner's manual says 80 ft-lb for the spare... and that was what I was running off for the regular (Sport) wheels. It doesn't actually list for the regular tires (are they assuming you let the dealer do it?).

Dug into the service manual... it's 80 ft-lb.
 
  #14  
Old 02-13-2013, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Goobers
Dug into the service manual... it's 80 ft-lb.
I'm assuming that goes for any wheel?

Thanks for the looking up the info, and your resulting answer!

Was that the online service manual someone recently posted, or do you happen to have an actual Fit service manual?
 
  #15  
Old 02-14-2013, 09:47 AM
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I bought it... but, it turned out to be "an authorized reproduction."

oh well.

As for the wheels... the book doesn't actually specify. So, I take it as any wheel.
 
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