I have a 2012 Fit Base M/T with just shy of 70,000 miles on it (I drive a lot). Cruising down the street the other day, maybe 30-35 mph in third gear, the engine shudders, CEL comes on along with the traction control light and it throws me into safe mode. I stop the car, restart it, runs fine but still has the warning lights on. I run the code when I get home P2135 - throttle/pedal position sensor/switch A/B voltage correlation. Doesn't look like many Fits have had this issue since I've been looking around the forum with no posts followed up on. Common issues are loose connection or bad throttle position sensor on the throttle body unit. Honda doesn't sell the sensor by itself so I'd be replacing the throttle body if that's the case. The CEL didn't come on the next day when I started my car but performed the exact same action as before later that day, this time while doing 50-55 on the freeway. I cleared the code yesterday afternoon and it hasn't come on... yet. I'll update when it does and thoroughly check the cable connections later today when I get some time. I appreciate any help/advice but if all else fails, I hope this will help someone in the future that encounters this same problem.

On a side note: Reason I think (and am hoping) it's simply a poor connection is because the combination of stiffer lowering springs and driving around a town that has some pretty unforgiving roads even at incredibly slow speeds, I'm hoping maybe something just got jarred loose.

 

Sure enough, ensured all connectors at the throttle body were good and secure, went to lunch. Coming back from lunch it threw the code again. Driving home from work, it threw the code three more times, two of them within 2 minutes of each other. Got home, ran my scanner for TPS and APPS numbers and noticed one APP sensor and one TP sensor were twitchy with my foot completely off the pedal and were just as twitchy with WOT. I figure the pedal sensor being twitchy could be cause for the throttle sensor to be twitchy but not the reverse. So now I'm thinking, damn, if it's the pedal sensor, that part is $230, not $50 for the throttle body like I had hoped it was. Unplugged the pedal sensor plug and the TPS stopped twitching. Plugged the APPS back in and everything has been gravy since. All numbers stay rock solid when off the pedal (car on, engine off). I'll see how long it stays working but as of now it looks like it was just a loose connection on the APPS.

 

Thanks for the info

 

Damn light came on again on my way home. Same code. P2135. I'm hoping it's the throttle body sensor and replacing the throttle body will finally fix it cause limping on the freeway in Southern California is not fun.

 

Quick update:

Still having issues with the code and car going into safe mode. Seems to happen more when it's hot out and never when it's cold out, not sure if that affects it in some way but it's worth noting. Got the new throttle body but forgot that you need a new gasket as well, getting that from Honda today or tomorrow. Took my Takeda cai off and gave it and the filter a much needed clean as well.

 

To "hopefully" bring some closure and resolution... Car quit on me 8 times yesterday! Couldn't take it anymore so I said "F it," I can hopefully use the current gasket for the time being until the new one comes in. While disconnecting the main wiring harness, I noticed the red/black wire was frayed pretty good because it was pulled so damn tight. Once I got the harness unclipped, the wire essentially split completely on it's own. Not to worry, soldered about a half inch piece of wire on to give it just enough slack, put some heat shrink over it. Now, not only am I not having engine codes and car going into safe mode, it's running better than before. I think that did it.

Hopefully this is the last post here for me and hopefully this can help someone else out down the road... It would have easily cost over $1,000 at Honda to diagnose/fix this instead of an hour or so of my time and about $0.02 in materials.

 

Hit a good size bump a week ago and car goes into safe mode. Figured it was the same thing but I was on the side of the freeway and couldn’t mess with it there. Towed it home, looked at the throttle body wiring harness and yup, top cable had completely pulled out of the connector. The harness is big and can only be ordered as a complete piece from Honda for about $450. Took a chance and ordered a part off Amazon noted as a Toyota throttle body... Toyota PN: 90980-11858. Universal plug for Denso throttle bodies so I lucked out. Cut the wires from the existing harness, soldered them into the new one and I’m good to go. Slight headache but a $15 fix for something Honda would have probably replaced the entire throttle body for.