New Battery for 2009 Fit Not Holding Charge
#1
New Battery for 2009 Fit Not Holding Charge
Hey all,
Was hoping to reach out to some well-versed mechanics to see if anyone could help me diagnose my issue. I have had a 2009 Fit since 2013 and have had minimal issues with it. It is primarily used as a commuting vehicle, typically driving approximately 400 miles per week.
I had parked my car the other day and upon returning to it, was unable to get the engine to turn over. Barely a flicker with the lights. I am 100% positive that nothing was left on within the interior of the car to drain it. I was able to find someone to attempt to help me jump the car, 20 minutes later was still unable to get the car to jump. I figured my battery was shot and needed to be replaced. I replaced the battery myself, car started without any issue. I drove the car home (45 minutes) and parked it.
The next day I hopped into the car and drove it to run some errands, only a few miles total. But no issues starting the car.
The following day I attempted to start the car and the battery was drained. Again, 100% confident that no lights were left on to drain the battery.
I have had one friend mention that it could be an issue with the alternator. Your thoughts?
Was hoping to reach out to some well-versed mechanics to see if anyone could help me diagnose my issue. I have had a 2009 Fit since 2013 and have had minimal issues with it. It is primarily used as a commuting vehicle, typically driving approximately 400 miles per week.
I had parked my car the other day and upon returning to it, was unable to get the engine to turn over. Barely a flicker with the lights. I am 100% positive that nothing was left on within the interior of the car to drain it. I was able to find someone to attempt to help me jump the car, 20 minutes later was still unable to get the car to jump. I figured my battery was shot and needed to be replaced. I replaced the battery myself, car started without any issue. I drove the car home (45 minutes) and parked it.
The next day I hopped into the car and drove it to run some errands, only a few miles total. But no issues starting the car.
The following day I attempted to start the car and the battery was drained. Again, 100% confident that no lights were left on to drain the battery.
I have had one friend mention that it could be an issue with the alternator. Your thoughts?
#4
My Son's 2009 Fit has the same problem. Something is stuck on. The one year old battery died and would no longer take a charge. We took it back for warranty and they guy was nice but said if the replacement dies it's not covered. There was no battery fault. So we took the new one home and measured voltage across the battery with nothing on and 12V was being pulled from something. His hatch is stuck and he opens it from a panel on the inside. Not sure if that's triggering something but no lights are on or dash lights.
So we left the cables off the battery and we'll have to start pulling fuses while measuring voltage drain at the battery.Any common issues with Fits?
So we left the cables off the battery and we'll have to start pulling fuses while measuring voltage drain at the battery.Any common issues with Fits?
#5
Don't use a plain volt meter, because everything in the car that uses battery power for memory will cause it to display a voltage reading even when it's perfectly normal.
Use an ammeter that can display low range. Ideal draw will be under 30mA.
See if the compressor clutch is stuck on--- due to a stuck relay.
Use an ammeter that can display low range. Ideal draw will be under 30mA.
See if the compressor clutch is stuck on--- due to a stuck relay.
#7
You are looking for a large amount of current drain, so start on 10A first.
If what you measure is well under 0.2 amps then it should be safe to use the 200mA scale....but disconnecting and moving leads might also cause a current surge when you reconnect, that could blow the internal fuse.
Be aware if the current exceeds the scale you are on, or if you hook up the leads wrong, you'll blow the fuse inside the meter (most have the fuses inside anyway) and it will always read 0 or something to that effect.
If what you measure is well under 0.2 amps then it should be safe to use the 200mA scale....but disconnecting and moving leads might also cause a current surge when you reconnect, that could blow the internal fuse.
Be aware if the current exceeds the scale you are on, or if you hook up the leads wrong, you'll blow the fuse inside the meter (most have the fuses inside anyway) and it will always read 0 or something to that effect.
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cgwaters
2nd Generation (GE 08-13)
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03-19-2023 11:08 PM