Sounds like the ignition lock & steering wheel lock (all one unit) is warn and/or lacks lubrication to allow you to make it work by twisting the key. I have heard that people that a huge key ring (has a lot of weight to it) tend to have damaged ignition locks but who knows for sure?

Replacing that mechanism would be more expensive than lubricating it. I'd have to assume that the ignition key would be different if replaced (again this never happened to me) and then there is that cost plus the new key wouldn't work in the door lock.

I'd opt for lubrication but it would seem that it has to get "deep" into the whole mechanism to those parts hanging up. Spraying something down the keyhole "probably" won't be enough but it could be tried as step #1.

Remember that when turning the ignition key, each click engages a new set of electric circuits, so a lubricant shot down the keyhole might coat these contact surfaces and cause issues. From past experience (20 yrs ago) dry / powdered Graphite is electrically conductive and will cause havoc inside the ignition with electricity jumping from one contact to another and your lights will be on/off, engine start/stops, etc like the car is possessed.

So, to avoid a new key (possibly) and electrical issues caused by dry Graphite (possibly), you might need to have that ignition / steering lock mechanism taken out of the car and soaked / lubed on a work bench then reinstalled. While out of the car, a technician could directly apply the lube to all locations, and work it so the insides are freely moving again. Once I messed around with a Chrysler Crossfire (Mercedes Benz sort of) ignition / steering lock and it was a sturdy piece of metal to prevent car theft.

 

Assuming you aren't fighting against the steering column lock (steering wheel locked)





If you have another key that is used less often and has less wear, try it first.





Tumblers in the lock cylinder are worn, which causes the lock to jam. This is very common in the sidewinder style locks with high mileage and lots of use.

I retumble these locks regularly at work on all models with sidewinder keys. (I work for a Honda dealership)


Not all dealers are willing to retumble the locks though, nor do all service personnel know it's even possible to do so.




Sometimes the key has enough wear on the 'cut' that a fresh new key is needed at the same time

 

This happened to my son's 2009 Honda Fit last week (previously owned by me) -- Just under 100K miles. The key went in and would not turn so we needed to have it towed to the dealer. It was almost $1100 between parts and labor.

 

Try moving the steering wheel slightly before turning the key over. The key will not always move when the wheel is in a locked position.

 

Could also be the shifter. I had a problem on an old non-Honda car that you had to shake it in park to start it.

 

What was it?

 

The invoice notes "Replace Ignition". Here's the details on the part they ordered:
06351-TF0-A11 Lock Assy., ST $748.83 There was also $350.00 in labor. Yikes.

~Heather