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Turn up the radio. (Or fill it and see if it makes the slosh-thump).
The top of the shock... what's going on there? Would a deep socket work? did you have to keep the shaft from turning with an allen wrench? (looks at SM, oooooh) They should have designed the access hole better.
Turn up the radio. (Or fill it and see if it makes the slosh-thump).
The top of the shock... what's going on there? Would a deep socket work? did you have to keep the shaft from turning with an allen wrench? (looks at SM, oooooh) They should have designed the access hole better.
It ain't about the noises, my father never hugged me. Or maybe he hugged me too much. I'll test the slosh, and a dozen other things.
top of the shocks an allen key hole I rounded the top of while tightening it the previous time. Beneath that is stripped threads attempting to upsize the locknut used to one that I already had a crowsfoot for. Metal was too hard and it just ate the upper threading, and likely would have snapped the stud. Fun times.
So obviously, make sure your allen key is fully seated. You know, I feel strongly that they would have put a hex or box head atop that stud if they loved us, and ofcourse, made the access panel a little taller. Still better than ford's flat head slot. Tune in next week for more cautionary tales!!
These rear suspensions on these Fits, very much like the old fords.... where you pull the shocks and the whole rear falls on the ground.
In the case of these Fits, there is no rear differential..(just springs - go boink!! down the street!)
In any event, it is the weight of the vehicle compressing the springs and the shocks which
limit the complete expansion of the springs.
Point to be said here is this...... If there is anything loose in the shock, either it(the shock) being loose at it's mounting places or just an old beat shock. There will
certainly be clunking to be heard. Also, don't let the inner fender well get rusted(if you are in "Rustland") particularly around the upper shock mount. This
is a high stress area. It is an area subjected to fatigue. Failure if rots out......
now on to a little update.
thump, I assume, may be caused by the drum brakes. They get all hot from driving around, then I park it and throw on the P brake cuz I dont want the weight of the car just resting on the tranny. They may well just get a bit sticky from cooking.
new noises. Number one was this guy
little rubber bumper that keeps the hatch from rattling actually screws into place. Well, it came loose over time so a simple twisting fixed it.
next one is a ticking coming from the front left, potentially engine bay. Well, it wasnt an electrical arc so I've gotta glue my hair back on. It was the front bumper, where it attatches just below the headlight and also meets the sizeable body panel that goes over the doors and to the rear. The bumper has some seriously stiff clippies there. when I removed the bumper to install a sheet of aluminum honeycomb mesh to sit behind the lower grill and protect the condenser, I busted a clip.
lesson learned. This time around I used trim tools to unclip and re-clip the bumper more carefully. I resolved the issue by cleaning off the surface where the offender would have clicked with rubbing alcohol, then applied some fancy fiberglass friction tape (the kind used to cover wire joints in ovens). Its sticky as can be, holds up forever, and its all I had to handle friction. Another mystery solved, gang. So for now I'm hangin up my ascot and feeling fine.
The dash rattles subsided with proper re-torquing of the new struts and shocks. Shes nice and quiet.....for now
Edit: oh yeah, another one was a sticky suction sound (like if you spilled soda) coming from the weather stripping surrounding the driver door. also resolved. Its old and its started to rip, and I assume the vacuum from opening the door is furthering, if thats a word, the ripping of said weather strip. I'm just gonna throw some silicone paste on it and see if thats good enough. That, or I got some red rubber grease I've been itchin to use.
Re-torqued rear suspension, re-inspected brakes, re-checked parking brake, inspect spare tire compartment, retorqued rear axel beam, front sway bar. Verified that the thump is tank slosh due to lack of a baffle which, quite frankly, ****** me the **** off. Nonetheless its evidence that the car is virtually silent, which means it won't be a squeaky, groaning, rattling mess when it's 20. The reason for this OCD by the way is, at its core, preemptive maintenance. Working on dealing with shake/vibration of the front windows which is caused by wear of the weatherstrip seal and the guide which is part of the motor assembly. When I come up with a solution I'll post it, or just buy new window motors. If you guys have any noises you want to deal with, feel free to post 'em up.
EDIT: Also verified that my car has no rear sway bar running within the axel beam...
