Honda Service Advisor for over 9 years...need help?
BonyLad, is there any way to disassemble the front driver seat tracks to repair the latching mechanism? Have had the seat out, nothing is jammed in the track, and I can see thru the holes in the bottom of the track that the mechanism is broken when compared to the track on the other side of the seat. Any info would be highly appreciated.
I replaced the battery today... I thought surely this was it. I imagine in an EPS system (which I am still unfamiliar with) that while you are steering your electric system is already taxed and adding to the load will not be good. ATF is fine... steering fluid is fine... and still the car has a great lag whenever I corner and pull into traffic. Its a bit frightening... pulling out into traffic and trying to gun it and your car won't allow it!
Hey there Bonylad, thanks so much for your input on everyone's questions.
My 2010 automatic Fit Base was purchased from a friend who was the original owner. He took the car to the dealer for routine maintenance and it never had any sort of 'problems.' However, I feel that the car has a weakness or hesitation when it shifts, as if it is hanging out between gears. I notice similar weakness/lag/lack-of-acceleration when coming out of the end of a wide turn. (I would liken it to riding with someone in a standard-transmission who wasn't very good at shifting, but like I said, it is an automatic and I am the one driving!)
Is there something that I should be concerned about or is this common? Thanks!
My 2010 automatic Fit Base was purchased from a friend who was the original owner. He took the car to the dealer for routine maintenance and it never had any sort of 'problems.' However, I feel that the car has a weakness or hesitation when it shifts, as if it is hanging out between gears. I notice similar weakness/lag/lack-of-acceleration when coming out of the end of a wide turn. (I would liken it to riding with someone in a standard-transmission who wasn't very good at shifting, but like I said, it is an automatic and I am the one driving!)
Is there something that I should be concerned about or is this common? Thanks!
Let's see how well I can do this from my phone.
First off, big thanks to Bonelad for answering our questions when he can. It's nice ot have someone in the know providing answers.
The Fit is a bit of a touchy car in general, though yes, there is a clutch delay valve. It is possible to remove it though it is a bit of a PITA since it is attached to the clutch master cylinder which is tucked down low far back on the firewall (almost behind the driver side front strut tower, under the brake master cylinder.) So far, the easiest way to do it is replace the clutch master cylender with one that does not have a CDV. The best, known working candidate is the one from a 96 to 00 civic. Though this requires some finagling and rebending the hard line. There is a DIY thread in the DIY section.
When I was looking into purchasing a 2011 Fit, I test drove a Sport MT, Sport AT and Base AT (couldn't find a local base MT which is what I wanted). If you look, the EPA MPG ratings on the base and sport AT's are different. As far as I can tell from reasearch I did when looking to purchase, the base AT runs a different shift program that likes to upshift early and doesn't like to downshift to help with the MPG. This may be what you are feeling.
Hope this helps!
First off, big thanks to Bonelad for answering our questions when he can. It's nice ot have someone in the know providing answers.
I came to this car from a base model Pontiac G5 (brobalt) so it wasnt much different. Both are touchy and kind of suck, but I didnt know if there was anything I could do. Also I figured it was something similar to that because you can hear a whine if coasting while the shifter is in place with the clutch depressed.
What did I drive before? Get this... a 92' Geo Tracker that I got to 262,000 miles... hahaha. It was a 5-speed and it was with me for a very long time. That being said, I'm more comfortable with standards, but not unused to automatics. I've driven them plenty, usually Nissans (which my family members tend to drive) or Oldsmobiles.
I haven't replaced the Transmission Fluid yet, so I'll give it a go. It can't hurt, I suppose, though the levels were fine when I checked it last. (2 weeks ago or so). I replaced the air-filter when I first got this car and began feeling that "lag."
Facts I was thinking about last night that I left out: My friend owned the car from 2010 to 2012. I bought it in Nov 2012 with 26,000 miles on it. Seems like quite a young car to me..
I haven't replaced the Transmission Fluid yet, so I'll give it a go. It can't hurt, I suppose, though the levels were fine when I checked it last. (2 weeks ago or so). I replaced the air-filter when I first got this car and began feeling that "lag."
Facts I was thinking about last night that I left out: My friend owned the car from 2010 to 2012. I bought it in Nov 2012 with 26,000 miles on it. Seems like quite a young car to me..
Hope this helps!
Thanks for the feedback. Thats good to know. In my daily life (commute, 7 mi to work) I am alright with sacrificing 'performance' for economy. I'm not a racer. If this means there is nothing *wrong* with my car, I'm a happy camper!
Let's see how well I can do this from my phone.
First off, big thanks to Bonelad for answering our questions when he can. It's nice ot have someone in the know providing answers.
The Fit is a bit of a touchy car in general, though yes, there is a clutch delay valve. It is possible to remove it though it is a bit of a PITA since it is attached to the clutch master cylinder which is tucked down low far back on the firewall (almost behind the driver side front strut tower, under the brake master cylinder.) So far, the easiest way to do it is replace the clutch master cylender with one that does not have a CDV. The best, known working candidate is the one from a 96 to 00 civic. Though this requires some finagling and rebending the hard line. There is a DIY thread in the DIY section.
When I was looking into purchasing a 2011 Fit, I test drove a Sport MT, Sport AT and Base AT (couldn't find a local base MT which is what I wanted). If you look, the EPA MPG ratings on the base and sport AT's are different. As far as I can tell from reasearch I did when looking to purchase, the base AT runs a different shift program that likes to upshift early and doesn't like to downshift to help with the MPG. This may be what you are feeling.
Hope this helps!
First off, big thanks to Bonelad for answering our questions when he can. It's nice ot have someone in the know providing answers.
The Fit is a bit of a touchy car in general, though yes, there is a clutch delay valve. It is possible to remove it though it is a bit of a PITA since it is attached to the clutch master cylinder which is tucked down low far back on the firewall (almost behind the driver side front strut tower, under the brake master cylinder.) So far, the easiest way to do it is replace the clutch master cylender with one that does not have a CDV. The best, known working candidate is the one from a 96 to 00 civic. Though this requires some finagling and rebending the hard line. There is a DIY thread in the DIY section.
When I was looking into purchasing a 2011 Fit, I test drove a Sport MT, Sport AT and Base AT (couldn't find a local base MT which is what I wanted). If you look, the EPA MPG ratings on the base and sport AT's are different. As far as I can tell from reasearch I did when looking to purchase, the base AT runs a different shift program that likes to upshift early and doesn't like to downshift to help with the MPG. This may be what you are feeling.
Hope this helps!
hi, hopefully you can help me.
My car takes about 3-4 seconds to crank and start. I changed the car battery already, but it hasn't helped. When I had this problem, I had to call AAA to get it started. The guy that started my car said it had a heavy fuel smell when it finally cranked, and said my car was maybe loaded with fuel. Not sure why this is happening, but any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks!
My car takes about 3-4 seconds to crank and start. I changed the car battery already, but it hasn't helped. When I had this problem, I had to call AAA to get it started. The guy that started my car said it had a heavy fuel smell when it finally cranked, and said my car was maybe loaded with fuel. Not sure why this is happening, but any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks!
Headlight/Dimmer Switch Replacement
2007 Sport Fit.
In process of replacing mangled dimmer switch. Switch is ready to remove, but the dash enclosure interferes. Does the dash or steering column need to be removed to complete removal of dimmer switch?
In process of replacing mangled dimmer switch. Switch is ready to remove, but the dash enclosure interferes. Does the dash or steering column need to be removed to complete removal of dimmer switch?
59000 check
I'll be picking up a used 2009 fit sports auto that has 59000miles on it..
I think it does have louder engine noise under full wot than new ones.
Should I take it to dealer and check it before warranty expires?
What will be the recommended check list?
I think it does have louder engine noise under full wot than new ones.
Should I take it to dealer and check it before warranty expires?
What will be the recommended check list?
Reset yellow tool sign
Hi, i have a 2007 honda fit and i need to reset this, after changing the oil? I think there are two buttons i have to push at once and start the engine? Help please?
Thank you so much!
Thank you so much!
Wow.....Ive been busy and neglected this thread, but looks like the spirit of its intent is alive and strong.
I would suggest email me bonylad@yahoo.com for info and help so that I wont miss out of anything. Please put HONDA FIT HELP in the title so I know its from here. Thanks!
I would suggest email me bonylad@yahoo.com for info and help so that I wont miss out of anything. Please put HONDA FIT HELP in the title so I know its from here. Thanks!
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