Cant help with that unfortunately.

 

Hey, BL, if you're still on the list here's one. I installed a maplight in my 2012 Base MT by following a thread on this list. During the install, I accidentally grounded a hot wire at the interior roof light where I hooked the hot and another wire that feeds the maplight. Blew a fuse, which I replaced, but now the maplight and the roof light do not come on when the door opens. Both do light if turned on by their switches. Any ideas?

 

Link to this guide you used? I can see what wires you tapped into and what circuits they involve. At that point I can suggest some things. PM me if need be.

 

Do you know what's the difference between 2012 Fit Sports that show 90% Japanese parts vs 85%?

Also, do you know why I feel the 2012 Fit being less stable than the 2010 sport (both are identical except for the year). I heard the struts are different.

Thanks!

 

Lol. No idea on the parts thing. You got a good one there. Parts might know, but I doubt it.

Well given the tire size is the same.....and the cars are the same pretty much. I checked the two years and assuming the SAME plant of manufacture. They parts are the same except the bump stop.

May be small variances in production or plant. Sometimes some cars are just made a little "tighter".

 

Here's the URL: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...t-base-ge.html

Thanks for the reply.

 

I have to replace my passenger side mirror, but its one of the heated ones. I asked at the parts counter to see as many of the diagrams as they could show me, but I still can't see where the wire plugs into the door/dash area. Any ideas? TIA.

 

Have you bought the new one yet? It will come with some wires attached tot he rear. Just a matter of taking the old one apart to see where the wires go.

CHeck out this thread for installing winkers. It will show you how to remove mirror etc.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...s-winkers.html

 

Thanks! Great info!

 

I have a 2010 Sport MT with 55k miles. My clutch pedal makes a creaking noise when depressed. Everything functions normal, but man is it annoying. I sprayed a little lithium grease where the push rod goes through the firewall and on the hinge. That seemed to stop it for a bit, but came back. Is there a reason it makes this noise and is there a specific lubricant I should be using if it is just dry joints?

Also I was told my drums need adjusted by the service center that rotates my tires / changes my oil. I always assumed that backing up and braking would adjust them enough.

Also my clutch pedal seems touchy and it may just be my poor driving skills, but sometimes its really hard to take off without making the car jerk or even shifting if I am not focused on it. Every car is different, but this car seems more obnoxious than most that I have owned.

 

There are several lube points on the pedal assy. I have to use an actual grease, lithium is too thin. I have an 09 Base 5MT and mine did this. We have some wheel bearing grease....I just applied some and wiped off excess......blamo.

To my knowledge, basically they self adjust to a degree. What your paying for is a cleaning and lubrication.


The clutch pedal is touchy. These cars have a clutch delay valve, which keeps the clutch partially engaged. People more familiar with manuals seem to find them touchy.....my previous car was a Cobalt SS/SC and to this car.....the clutch sucks.

 

I came to this car from a base model Pontiac G5 (brobalt) so it wasnt much different. Both are touchy and kind of suck, but I didnt know if there was anything I could do. Also I figured it was something similar to that because you can hear a whine if coasting while the shifter is in place with the clutch depressed.

 

Have you chimed in on the hesitation/stuttering/stalling issue with the 2007 and some 2008 Fits? I've worked extensively with a service advisor at my local dealer and we couldnt figure out how to solve my issue after valve adj, spark plug change, and coil pack change. Various codes of false negatives. I ended swapping motor with a salvage. Works great now.

 

Thanks for the hints. Seems it'll be a breeze when I get going on Saturday. Might even add a little custom work, too.

 

Hey there Bonylad, thanks so much for your input on everyone's questions.

My 2010 automatic Fit Base was purchased from a friend who was the original owner. He took the car to the dealer for routine maintenance and it never had any sort of 'problems.' However, I feel that the car has a weakness or hesitation when it shifts, as if it is hanging out between gears. I notice similar weakness/lag/lack-of-acceleration when coming out of the end of a wide turn. (I would liken it to riding with someone in a standard-transmission who wasn't very good at shifting, but like I said, it is an automatic and I am the one driving!)

Is there something that I should be concerned about or is this common? Thanks!

 

Sorry didnt see this. No, havent had those issues here. No keyword search for this came up on ISIS. We have had misfire issues on the Odysseys and Pilots and usually they replace plugs and do a software update (cyl 1-4 only). One customer was particularly hard and the fix was to adjust his valves to the max spec tightness.......fixed.

 

What did you drive before this? How many miles? ATF replaced recently? Level?

 

What did I drive before? Get this... a 92' Geo Tracker that I got to 262,000 miles... hahaha. It was a 5-speed and it was with me for a very long time. That being said, I'm more comfortable with standards, but not unused to automatics. I've driven them plenty, usually Nissans (which my family members tend to drive) or Oldsmobiles.

I haven't replaced the Transmission Fluid yet, so I'll give it a go. It can't hurt, I suppose, though the levels were fine when I checked it last. (2 weeks ago or so). I replaced the air-filter when I first got this car and began feeling that "lag."

Facts I was thinking about last night that I left out: My friend owned the car from 2010 to 2012. I bought it in Nov 2012 with 26,000 miles on it. Seems like quite a young car to me..

 

Bonylad,

I recently replaced my pads with posiquiets and rotors from slotted to drilled/slotted combo.About a week later a rotational squeak started after about an hr of heavy driving (I drive 200-300 a week in the city). Squeak goes away when pressing the brakes (regardless of amount of pressure applied). Once the squeak starts its pretty constant, but goes away for a bit the longer I park.

This leads me to believe some part is contacting when heated. I purchased a really cheap set of brakes on ebay and the sound went away, but I'd rather have the first set one (brake feel).

Ii was thinking some part is making contact when heated. I was thinking of bending back the indicator tabs since I dont wait that long to replace pads anyway. Is this ok? what are your thoughts sir?

 

inside/outside air lever is stuck. It happened after cabin filter was replaced. Any help?