My spare tire well keeps filling with water,has anyone else had this problem

 

Check the antenna for gaps around the base.

The problem with the antenna is due to running it through the car wash without removing the mast. This results in bending and distorting the sheet-metal around the antenna.

here's a thread on the topic

 

i dont see any water stains up there,could it be running behind everything ,then down into the well??

 

could be.

I don't think the hatch would leak into that area. I think any water would be channeled away from the inside. Unlikely a window would leak. But these are other areas to check. I'd remove the floor, fold down the seat, and sit back there while someone runs a hose to try to localize the leak.

But check the antenna mount, in cases where this was leaking there was an obvious gap between the base and the sheet-metal.

 

cool thanks for you input

 

Not in my current GD but in a previous 1998 Volvo V70 SE Station wagon. Check the rubber seals around the rear hatch and quarter rear windows. Get it solved sooner than later to prevent corrosion from forming. In my case, the Volvo developed surface rust stains which I sanded and gave a coat of primer and paint.

 

thurst, here is your link. See the pictures contained inside. This is a well documented problem on the GD Fit. Your leak is coming from a hairline crack which begins underneath the back end of the rubber stripping on your roofline. Simply remove the rubber stripping and then find the hairline crack starting at the rubber roof strip metal post, extending several inches into the top of your trunk hatch, to the right of the upper right trunk hatch hinge. The water gets in there and runs through the C pillar until it reaches the opening near the bottom right of your trunk. The water then simply dribbles down into the spare tire wheel well. Simply clean the area starting underneath the rubber roof strip and apply silicone caulk.


https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...k-trunk-2.html

 

WOW thanks Burntz does the rubber strip just pop out,or you have to pry it off

 

as you can see from the third picture of the link I provided, there is a tiny metal post on either end holding the rubber strip down via the attached metal clip (also shown in his hand). To remove the strip (which will be filled with pollen and junk so it will be stuck down to the car a bit), simply push the very end of the rubber strip IN TOWARDS the middle of the car. This will allow the wide end of the opening of the metal clip to release over the static metal post on the roof. Pulling the rubber strip will only move it in the wrong direction. You need to push the end in towards the center of the car, or towards the passenger doors if you will. The rest of the strip will simply peel up since it just sits in the car's roof channel. Do the same to the front of the strip (near the windshield) to remove that end as well so you can clean out the entire channel of debris. Clean the rubber strip off with soap and water once you have it off. When you lay it down back into place, the hot sun baking your roof will almost pull the clean rubber strip back into place. Just make sure the two metal clips are grabbing the metal posts properly before you go drive away. You'll get the idea once you take off one end of the rubber strip. The pictures show you all you need to know.

 

sweet we are 2 get 5 1/2 inch of rain the next 2 days I hate vacing that water out ,got a little rust going on have to clean it all up

 

thanks a mil burntz i took them off there was 3 or 4 inch crack no passengers
side,all kinds of dirk and crap will caulk after the 2 day rain storm thanks again

 

Just some advice about dealing with cracks in metal.

Before we ever weld any cracks in anything, we find the end of the crack and drill a hole where the crack ends. Drilling a hole interrupts the crack and stops it from spreading further.

Now, I know you aren't welding it but it should stop it from cracking further

 

Its not a crack in the metal. Its a crack in the body seam sealer which is basically a putty that is put over the top of 2 body panels to prevent leaks. Put clear rtv over the cracked sealer and your water leak will go away.
I posted links to pictures in another thread to show where the water leaks into the cabin. Sorry I'm on my phone. Otherwise I would have linked to it. Just do a search for water leak.

 

I registered with FitFreak just to say thank you to BurntZ and also Mochanic for the links with pics and the explanations.

With this, it was easy to partially remove the roofing strips and follow any hairline cracks along body seams. I used....Shoe Goo as a sealant as it seemed easier to rub into the cracks than silicone. For about a week, there were still a few trickles of water exiting from the inside trunk cladding on right side but now it has been 4 months of heavy rain and snow with no further occurrence of the problem. So, thanks again.

P.S. The cracks were at the end of the right roofing channel where the rubber strip locks in and also in the area of the right trunk hinge. Since I had the equivalent of a lake in the wheel well last winter, I also now make sure to remove ALL snow and ice from the area of roofing strips.

 

You are quite welcome Crankster. Have a happy and dry new year. I stuffed lots of silicone not only where the crack was, but around the hinges and tail lights. I figured I didn't care what it looked like since no one would see it anyway when the hatch is closed. Moreover, I was much more interested in keeping my car mildew and odor free. It has been over 1.5 years since the repair and all is bone dry, just like my engine.

 

Nothing beats a dry engine, BurntZ. I know you`re not talking about the oil
As for the sealant: I too spread it out around hinges, hose and then massively on the inside at bumper height - all kinds of suspicious seams there.
Enjoy your dry winter!