Well I currently have a kenwood deck and a Boss Audio AR1500M mono block amp with a 4 gauge kit(which I know is not great, it is something I will upgrade soon) installed on my 2010 fit sport. I was running the Polk DB1222 until they were stolen from my drive way (pretty sure I got an idea who did it because he has vanished since, also my fault for not installing a alarm which I am doing before putting the new system in) so I am planning on upgrading it all around since I have came into some new equipment recently ! My pops sent me his Kenwood DDX8901HD Double din and his Kenwood XR900-5 5 channel amp.

Here are a few things I am having trouble with since I am not a expert-

I want to install a Alpine Type R 10 inch sub but not sure if to go with the SWR-10D2 or SWR-10D4 in order for it to work with my current amp or If I will be able to run this without upgrading to a higher gauge wire/high performance battery?

Going to install that other kenwood amp and run aftermarket speakers I was thinking of running all 4 of the same speakers but I have heard others say they run 2 component and 2 coaxial, is there any reasoning for this? I was thinking of running some on Infinity Reference or Kappa line.

Any input of feedback will be greatly appreciate Thanks!!

 

That Kenwood amp is probably underpowered for those subs, although I will say that a sub's rating has a range, not just a single number, so it may depend on what's in the manual. But that's the kind of sub that likes heaps of power, and something I'd run with a dedicated amp.

The subs only consume the power you send through the amp, so they'll work without draining the power. But the RMS output of the amp should be close to the RMS output of the speaker. Unless you plan to upgrade the amp later, save your money and choose a lower rated sub.

Those are 1000w RMS subs, so if you wire the 10D4 at 400w/4ohms, the sub has a spare 600w of RMS capacity, or if you wire the 10D2 at 600w/2ohms, it still has a spare 400w of RMS capacity. Your sound quality will not be optimal. You will get better value for money and sound quality by opting for a sub closer to your amp's RMS range. Unless you plan to upgrade the amp soon, of course.

As for the other one, dollar for dollar, components are generally better, coax are easier to install. I would hear out the ones you want and decide from there.

 

A: Alpine type R 10 will not handle 1000w rms
B: the amp in question will not produce 1000w rms
C: a single d2 sub can only be wired to a 1ohm or 4ohm load, a single d4 can only be wired to a 2ohm or 8ohm load, therefore make sure you find out the minimum impedance your amp is stable to, your higher end sub amps are 1ohm stable, also the lower the impedance you run the more electrical you need to power the amp

 

Very well said. I'd like to also add this. Make sure you get an LOC. Doesn't have to be hi-end like the Audio Control LC6i/LC7i. I normally ran this unit. but im content with doing a cheaper unit (65-100) and came out fine just fine. Im not HUGE on big bass because the music I tend to listen to is House/Breaks/90's-00's R&B/Hip-Hop/Light Rock so I went with an Alpine Type-E. In a hatch i could have been content with an 8" so this 10 sounds nice with my Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 components in the normal frontal locations then then added the same components in the rear so a total of 8 high-end speakers and sub. Its a great road trip stereo. Like home theater almost.