My Sony, Zapco, Dynaudio Esotar, Morel, JL/Alpine, AudioQuest, Rockford Audio Upgrade - Page 3 - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums


Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #41  
Old 03-08-2018, 01:37 AM
BMW ALPINA's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 2,222
I spent last weekend finding the right spot for the 1/0AWG power cable to go through the firewall. I also use Stinger PG34 1/0AWG Firewall bushing.

Oh, also Techflex the Rockford Fosgate 1/0AWG power cable to make it look pretty like eye candy





Here is the area of the firewall that I can find ideal to drill (that is free from obstruction in the interior side, still far enough from exhaust manifold and safe). Then to make sure it is waterproof, I spray with foam (later I paint the foam white but I forgot to take picture after I paint that foam white).



Here is where I am going to connect, to the main circuit breaker right after alternator:





and here are where it came out on the otherside of the firewall, just right under the A/C blower on the passenger side foot well:





Will continue this weekend
Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 03-18-2018, 03:55 AM
BMW ALPINA's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 2,222
Weekend update
Today I had some progress...
Techflex The AudioQuest X-2 Speaker Cable, The Audioquest X-2 in White color will be for Tweeter, the Grey Audioquest X-2 will be for the Midbass and the Yellow TechFlex indicated left channel, the Red TechFlex indicate right channel:









Start installing the Dynaudio Esotar2 650 Midbass on the door...
First step cut the metal mounting tab for stock Honda speaker to clear
the Dynaudio much larger metal basket.






I realize I should use Dremel instead of the large Makita Grinder,
so on the driver side door, I use Dremel and it's much better...
I later put epoxy to cover those run away slit that I accidentally cut using the Makita grinder....

Now, times to drill the holes for the speaker mounting screw...

first I use the Dynaudio MDF mounting plate with screw installed
as marking tools/template,
then I marks the holes location:





Picture below is when I use Dremel for the driver side, much better clean
cutting:








I can use a self tapping screw but... I want it to be as "proper" as possible, so I am using Rivet for M4 screw






Drill the holes with 6mm metric drill then install the rivet (I use rivet install tools so it's easy process):




Then I use glue to bond the EPDM gasket (that also act as extra spacer
so the magnet of the Dynaudio will clear the window when rolled down)...
I need 3 ply of EPDM gasket to get the clearance:




The Screw that I used are Stainless Steel Socket Hex Screw,
and I also use Stainless Steel Washer and Nylon Washer so
it won't scratch the Dynaudio Esotar2 650 mounting holes




then time to start soldering the wires...




Mounted on the door... (notice this only have 2 ply of EPDM gasket)
and it's barely rub the window, but tomorrow I will add 3rd ply of EPDM
gasket... to tired now...










Need to grind inner part of the door panel so the door panel can be close and clear the MDF mounting spacer:






That's it for today... going to sleep, and wake up early tomorrow
and continue...
hopefully I can finish the Tweeter Pod install and run all the wire to the back of the car tomorrow...
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 03-19-2018, 03:19 AM
BMW ALPINA's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 2,222
I want to make sure everything is tight like new,
so I replace every single Plastic Clip that hold the door panel with a new one:




I also took this opportunity to change the grey USDM door handle with
JDM SILVER Door handle from Japan Market only Honda Fit Shuttle





Then I add even more sound deadening on BOTH the Metal Door
and the Plastic Door Panel...



And as the Final Finishing Touch...
I bought original Dynaudio emblem (OEM parts from VW) and install it on the grill, the result really nice, like this car came from factory with Dynaudio system .

I install it by drilling the grill and insert the 2 foot under the emblem,
then hold by double tape and also epoxy the foot just to make sure no rattle when the Bass hit:




Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 03-19-2018, 07:15 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 50
This is an intense audio build.

I'm also amazed by all the gauges. Makes me think of an aircraft cockpit.

Nice audio build.
Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old 03-19-2018, 10:27 AM
BMW ALPINA's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 2,222
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fit10 View Post
This is an intense audio build.

I'm also amazed by all the gauges. Makes me think of an aircraft cockpit.

Nice audio build.
Thanks Fit10
Reply With Quote
  #46  
Old 03-24-2018, 08:20 PM
BMW ALPINA's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 2,222
Install the Dynaudio Esotar2 110 Tweeter and it's Tweeter Pod Today.

I bought the Tweeter Pod from Valicar in Germany.
He have eBay store and also direct website now:
www.pods-tweeters-midrange.com

The Pod came with a mounting bolt/net/screw kit to be mounted on A-Pillar.
but I don't feel it is a strong enough mounting point, no to mention, I need to remove my A-Pillar.

So I try to find a way to install in using the Original Honda Tweeter Holes on the dashboard.

First I need the anchor and I use this T-Plates I bought at Home Depot.




Luckily one of the pre drilled holes in the T-Plates can be use,
I just need to drill and tap it so it will fit the hollow light stud thread:





Then I run the speaker wire through the holes goes under the dashboard:



Here is the anchor with the hollow stud and I run the speaker cable through the stud:








Then I screw the round metal that I also had drill and tap (M10 thread) as the base, this round metal is basically Aluminum Disc Hardware for Glass Table
8mm thickness, 70mm diameter bought at eBay.





Then install the spacer that came with the tweeter pod:




then screw the tweeter pod:




then I use the Black STAINLESS STEEL Socket Screw (M3 size) that I bought from AccuGroup in UK, along with stainless steel washer plus vinyl washer (to prevent scratch to the mounting hole of the speaker)...
all black color:








Then of course install the Dynaudio Esotar2 110 Tweeter onto the pod:











back to the car now, going to install the Zapco ASP-X4 active X-Over
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 04-09-2018, 12:25 AM
BMW ALPINA's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 2,222
This weekend, I finally have time to install all the things needed for everything to be operational

Ok, few weeks ago I started running the 1/0 AWG wire from the engine bay to the cabin. Drill the firewall, use the Stinger Grommet and run the 1/0AWG wire through the passenger side firewall, came out right behind A/C blower in passenger foot compartment:










This is where I am connecting the 1/0AWG to...
this Stinger Circuit Breaker (Part of my Big3 Wiring) directly connected to the Alternator:



Use Steel Rivet Nut to secure the Aluminum Base of the Optima Yellow Battery, they are SECURED real well:





Remove all the seat so I can run the wiring (power and signal) to trunk:



More pictures telling the story of my wiring run...
the two RCA under front seat is for FUTURE STEREO Under Seat Subwoofer













Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old 04-09-2018, 12:55 AM
BMW ALPINA's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 2,222
This is what I did TODAY:

First, I try to find the right layout for all the fuse block, distribution block, circuit breaker and Zapco ASP-X4 Active X-Over Power Supply...
I need to find the right place inside the trunk that is safe from things in the trunk falling over it, yet still easy enough for me to access if need to...
and I find the PERFECT Place, it is between the right rear seat and the Optima Battery, which mean even better for shortest wire run to the future power amp which will be located behind the rear passenger seat...




I decide this is going to be the final layout:






Then I think the MDF color is to plain, (eventhough no one really can see it since it will be under the trunk floor cover...
and to paint it is too much to do, and to carpet it would look so ordinary...

so I decide to wrap it with 3M Vinyl Wrap





Then this is the finished looks:














The Circuit Breaker will make it easy if I want to disconnect power in the future, no more removing battery terminal.
Right now I am running 2 battery, the Optima and the stock front battery.
when I have time next week, I will remove the stock front battery and put 2 Pole terminal instead.

Honda Fit have very tight engine bay and each time I need to some work on the engine, most likely I need to remove the battery which is really a hassle... so now with front battery remove, I have more access...
I also want larger battery since the stock front battery is really small ...
other Honda Fit owner change their front battery to a slightly larger one but with my Mugen CR-Z Airbox, I don't have space to upgrade to larger battery...
so by relocating battery to the rear and using Optima Yellow, I solve a lot of problem, not to mention better weight distribution.

That EFX Fuse Distribution block function as both Non Power Amp 12volt source and also Remote On Distribution block.

Now, let's work on the Zapco ASP-X4:
I am installing it on the right side of the trunk where there use to be a console for storing small stuff...
Amazingly the shape is very similar to Zapco's dimension and there is plenty of space behind that panel.

First I enclose the Zapco with blue painter tape to reduce chance of scratch during test fitting:





Using Dremel cut the holes:





Fabricating the MDF for the base to mount the Zapco ASP-X4,
I am so glad I bought this Makita Saw few weeks ago, otherwise
it would be very hard if I use manual saw









Run all the RCA wiring to the Zapco:






I have this sudden idea to make sure no gap between the plastic panel and the Zapco, I use an old door seal (from this car too) and push it on the square opening and it work perfectly



and it's done:




I finally able to turn it on and listen to Full Active Front speaker (Dynaudio Esotar 650 and 110)... before it was either still stock speaker or, still stock tweeter...
The sound is amazing but...
I can feel the lack of power from the Sony Power Amp...
Before I was using the 4 channel, bridged as 2 channel to power the stock Honda speaker passively and it have good punch...
but now with it's 4 channel running fully active, it really don't have enough power to drive the Esotars...

so ...
I can't wait for BRAX to release the new MX4 PRO
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old Today, 02:12 AM
BMW ALPINA's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 2,222
Today I am doing the final finishing touch on the Battery Relocation:

I cut the trunk floor board to fit the protrusion of the Optima Battery,
Again I use Door Rubber Seal to cover the edges:









Last week, I paint the bottom steel plate below the original front battery ORANGE, and I decide to wait a week to let the paint fully cured.
Last week, I also forced to tie lock the original front battery positive terminal to make sure it don't fall or touch ground and shorts... this is temporary:




I made a mounting for the front battery terminal and it took me this whole weekend:

First I use the Positive and Negative Battery Jumper Terminal from JEGS, to make sure it doesn't loose by itself and to make sure it won't fall, I decide to apply JB Weld Epoxy at the bottom:



While at it, I also simplify the Big 3 wiring and the front EFX fuse block source wiring from 2 source wire (1/0AWG and 4AWG), to just 1 source wire (1/0AWG) directly connected to the Big3 distribution block. I also change the fuse to the more appropriate amp, due to change in load:









Then I connect the 1/0AWG ground wire from the car body and the engine block that used to be connected to the negative battery terminal to a Rockford Fosgate Distribution Block. The third wire from that ground distribution block will be connected to the JEGS Negative Jumper Terminal.
The RF Distribution block is secure with M4 nut insert and stainless hex socket screw:





Here is the JEGS Battery Jumper terminal ready to use after let the Epoxy cured over night:




Then I use Nut Insert to make sure the two black mounting feet is secure,
those 2 mounting feet were mounting feet for some LED light, but I see it perfect for the JEGS jumper terminal feet so the jumper terminal would be horizontal instead of vertical, by the way all the M5 hex socket screw are stainless steel to make sure there will be no rust problem:





The bottom of the JEGS jumper terminal have screw where I attached the ground wire from Ground Distribution block to the negative terminal, while the positive 1/0AWG from the big 3 distribution block connected to the positive JEGS Jumper terminal:




Then I mount the JEGS Jumper Terminal to the 2 black feet, one of the feet need a spacer to align it properly so I can mount the original Honda Front Positive Battery Terminal to the JEGS Positive Jumper Terminal:




Then I install the Honda Positive Battery Terminal to the JEGS Positive Jumper Terminal, a little adjustment is needed but it fit:
















This one show the connection between the source at the Big 3 Distribution Block to both the Positive JEGS Jumper Terminal and to the EFX Fuse Box:





Here it is after I install the airbox and everything back,
Looks much nicer than before (empty battery location with positive terminal hanging with a tie lock )...
Now it looks FINISHED almost like it came this way from Honda Factory:






Last edited by BMW ALPINA; Today at 02:20 AM.
Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Insert Your Ge8 Piks Would Live To See Different Ones From Owners On Here !!!! StaticGe8Nyc 2nd Generation (GE 08-13) 7 12-11-2017 09:05 AM
FS: Pass. Side Headlight apexanimal For Sale / Want To Buy / Classified Ads for USED Fit Items 3 10-17-2017 06:44 PM
My Seat Belt Webbing replace to Porsche Yellow Color BMW ALPINA 2nd Gen GE8 Specific Fit Interior Modifications Sub-Forum 6 09-09-2017 10:53 AM
TW: HONDA FIT LX 2017 Audio System. fitinvancouver For Sale / Want To Buy / Classified Ads for USED Fit Items 0 08-12-2017 11:06 PM
FS: Oem muffler and springs randomracer General For Sale Section 1 08-07-2017 07:31 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:45 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.