Hey guys, I recently installed my Buddy Club coilovers but I have a small issue. The upper 19mm bolt is slotted to allow for camber adjustment, but it seems that the bolt keeps slipping (as shown below by the white scratch marks) resulting in some noise at certain times. How do I get it to stop moving? I was thinking of replacing the nut with one that has ridges/teeth along it to prevent it from sliding, but I'm looking for a more sure answer. Picture:



Input is appreciated. I'm getting my alignment done Thursday, so if anything I'll have them take care of it. Thanks!

 

i thought none of the coilovers had camber adjustment for GE8's, someone correct me if I'm wrong

 

and you're absolutely sure you torqued it correctly 3 times?

 

Use a locking washer....The army uses them to keep nuts on Humvees from backing out

 

I probably know the answer to this one but first tell me, is this the driver's side or the passenger's side? Also, that doesnt look like a camber bolt. That looks like the stock bolt. Did you buy the camber bolts yet? if not, that's your issue. The camber bolts are black.

 

Assuming you have the right bolts I wouldn't look at locking washers or nuts with ridges. I would look into a permanent solution like filling the gap physically so they can't move.

 

Eh? I thought camber bolts were primarily used in non-slotted holes. And that slotted holes were able to use normal bolts.

 

Buddy Clubs are slotted to allow for some camber adjustment. None of the coilovers for the GE have adjustable camber from the top mount.

Does anyone have the proper torque specs for it? I tightened it as much as I could and it still moves. When I say that it moves, it's only when the car is stationary and I turn the wheel. Other than that, after about a block I can usually here it "pop" or "click" back to where it was and I don't have any issues.

I'll consider it, but these other responses are a bit more promising haha.

This is the driver side. Another thing I was thinking about was the direction the nut / bolt are facing, but I don't really see how it would make that great of a difference. And yes it is the stock bolt, I don't really see why camber bolts would be necessary

I'd like to do that, but I'm looking for a bit of a cheaper solution lol. There are a lot of people that have slotted camber adjustment, I just need to figure out why mine is slipping.

Exactly what I was thinking. I was considering that the stock bolts were the issue, but after looking at camber bolts, I don't see how it would help hold it in place. Excuse my ignorance when it comes to all of this

 

Nevermind, I actually found the torque specs:
I'll go torque it to spec, but I'm still open to suggestions.

 

I'm pretty sure it wasn't torqued to spec. I had these and used the stock bolt and adjusted camber that way. Goodluck, and show us the result!

 

I assume you are saying that the bolt is slipping in the slot and you are not saying that the nut is coming loose. If the nut is coming loose double nut it or use locktite.

As far as slipping in the slot. Go to the hardware store or Home Depot and get a stick of epoxy plumbers putty. Position the bolt in the slot exactly where you want it and fill the rest of the slot with the epoxy putty. Install the nut and tighten it with a torque wrench to specs. Wait overnight for the epoxy to set up and you are done.

If you ever need to change the bolt position in the slot, simply remove the nut and drive out the hardened epoxy with a punch. A serrated nut and a tooth washer under the bolt head end might also help.

It is important to get the thing torqued correctly. If necessary, get a harder bolt and nut. Then you can torque it higher.

 

I torqued it down to the 65 lbs yesterday (I might've torqued it a tad more than that haha) and I haven't heard any noises yet, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'll have pictures up in a little bit after I do a little more work. I want to go lower in the front but I'm already rubbing on the bumper clip with the 215s.

Correct, the bolt is slipping in the slot. I retorqued it so I'm going to test run it a bit more before I try anything else. So far so good!

 

Maybe that will take care if it and you will not have to resort to other things.

Good Luck

 

perfect, I've been looking around for a while and now that i found you, or someone with my situation, i want to know, i torqued the crap out of mine and i hope it doesn't move, did retightening everything solve your issue, because i too can't see how camber bolts would help when this is an elongated or as you call it slotted hole.

 

might help to add i just got the t1r basic coils and they too have the slotted hole so i figured its a matter of how tight you bolt it vs. buying camber bolts which I've read and heard is for regular holes not slotted ones...

 

I haven't had any issues ever since I torqued them down to 80lbs or so *knocks on wood*
Everything has been good with my coilovers so far, but it seems that I have a noise coming somewhere from the rear when I'm going slow over bumpy roads; I still haven't been able to track it down.

 

perfect, as for rear, try to make sure the washer at the top of the strut is tightened properly i had the same issue..


i was told i would need camber bolts for the front but i knew for slotted holes we didn't just wanted to be sure lol

 

The washer?
Whenever I try to tighten the top bolt of the strut any more than it is now the entire shock wants to turn with it. I'm going to try loosening it and re tightening, but it seems that it won't tighten any further than it is now. I'll try to get some pictures up - I get what you mean though. It seems that there's a small gap between the actual car and the washer.

 

yeah, so i guess slotted slots don't need camber bolts after all huh? just enough torque on stock bolt and you are golden.. right?