LIke title says. I am dropped on Swift Springs with SPC camber bolt kit I believe #81260. I had the car aligned at FIrestone and was able to achieve -1 camber up front. I know the kit says the range is +/- 1.75 but it is a generic kit that fits multiple vehicles. I have a lifetime alignment with them and came back six months later and asked to have at least -1.5 negative camber...they said no problem but was only able to achieve -1 on one side and =1.25 on the other. The reason I want negative camber is cuz I am rubbing in the front when hitting minor dips at >30mph. I am rolling on WORK 17 x 7 +42 with 205/40-17 tires.

What's the most negative camber that you guys achieve? How was tire wear? I know "toe" kills tires relatively faster than camber but am just curious.

In addition...just doing research as I am wanting to buy Enkei RPF1 in 15x7 with +41 and trying to mitigate rubbing in the front.

 

im running on buddy club coilovers and with spc camber bolts i maxed out at a little over -4 degrees. hope this helps

 

We have the SPC Camber bolts installed on a stock fit. Done at home so I couldn't tell you what we achieved, but want more.. Measurements are made with a framing square placed up against the bottom of the wheel and a measurement is made to the top edge of the rim.
How about installing camber bolts in the bottom location? Is there to much leverage for this location and the adjustment will slip?

 

How low are you? Do you have any pics? I might go to another shop (even though I have lifetime alignment at Firestone...I think they are reluctant to give me negative camber) and ask first if they can set it at least ~ -1.75.

Thanks

 

i'm sure he is lower than your swift springs which adds more camber, maybe you can get like 195/45 tires instead. I run 205 on my stock wheels with eibach springs and the fender liner rubs for me

 

im not that low...but definitely lower than springs...

 

You need cam bolts top & bottom to achieve maximum negative camber.

 

It's my understanding cam bolts are not recomended in the lower position. To much leverage.

 

That would be a misunderstanding! The B-Spec racers are doing it!

 

Macpherson struts like the Fit has do not gain much, if any camber due to lowering. It doesn't work the same as wishbone suspensions like we're used to seeing. That's why sometimes even mild drops need camber bolts. No natural camber like EF, EG, EK, Integras, ETC

 

Thanks guys for your response....also from what I understand...to adjust camber in the rear, we would have to use some sort of spacer/ring behind our drum hubs? Just wondering if they are welded? If so are they tack welded? Anybody try using the setup?

 

^ I don't think the GE's are able to camber in the rear. That only works on the GD's, I saw some where you can order a already cambered rear suspension but thats a lot of cash.

 

Quick question about camber bolts.
Does it keep up with adjusted spec? I mean, you'd have to wrench the sucker to adjust camber when aligning; doesn't that mean it could go out of spec anytime it wants to?
Never had camber bolts on previous cars, so I'm lost.

 

I have camber bolts in the top and bottom position on my GD to achieve -3 degrees. I AutoX the car monthly. I had the alignment checked at the end of the season and it didn't shift at all.

Take it to a reputable alignment place that will align to your desired specs and enjoy!

 

Perfect, thanks for your info!

 

my GE has a natural camber of around -2.4 -2.5 after lowering it with HKS type-x

 

my rear now... is that camber?

 

cool, I'm getting my tires on Tuesday, so I'll see what kind of camber I get in the rear with t1r springs.

 

Is that the max -3 degrees you can achieve? Or is that what you requested? Still trying to see what is the most negative one can achieve with one set of camber bolts on a 2010 Fit. Also what camber bolts are you using? (brand and part # please)

thanks everyone!

 

First, all "camber bolts" are the same, a 14mm bolt with an off center cam that can be used to push the bottom strut mount further out from the knuckle, hence adjusting camber. Either find a cheap set on the forum classifieds, online, or if your alignment shop cuts you a deal on the price for parts and labor do that.

Only using 1 set of bolts will give you a very limited range of adjustment. I believe with only one bolt the max listed range of adjustment is something like 1.25. I know some people have gotten around 1.4-5. You may be able to extend that with one set by putting it in the lower hole as opposed to the upper, but I cannot confirm.

On my GD, with two bolts, 3.0 is what I requested specifically. I can go A LOT further if I decide I want to LOL but for me, camber is a functional adjustment, not one for form.