TireRack never import this wheel in the spec that I want,
They had to special ordered it from Italy.
and the wheel will be shipped together with their regular order shipping container.
So after waiting for almost 2 months, My Wheel finally arrive today.

My wheel is OZ Racing SUPERTURISMO GT.
Color : Race Silver
Size : 18in x 7in
Offset : et42

The Tire is Michelin Pilot Super Sport, size: 225/40ZR18

I had NOT lowered my car yet,
with this configuration,
The Front Wheel do NOT rub at all,
but
The REAR Wheel do rub on large dip and bump with 4 people on the car.
if I am driving alone it do not rub at all.

I plan to roll my fender soon.
Will surely lower the car with Coil Over once I can decide which one to choose
between Bilstein, Koni (the one offered in this forum), or AMR Engineering.
Actually my favorite is the JDM Ohlins coil over, but they cost too much (after shipping cost).
When I lowered my car, I will surely install the SPC Camber bolt too.

Ok here are the pictures:

1. Unpacking:




2. Ready to install:




3. Tire Size:



4. Make sure of all the spec:












5. Making sure the Centering Ring already installed so the wheel will
sit perfectly (Hubcentric), turn out even the centering ring are from
OZ Racing.



6. Warning Sticker about the centering ring stuck to the hub:



7. Decide to put AntiSeize Compound to prevent the centering ring stuck
to the hub, and also apply to the stud thread to make sure the nut/stud do not seize too.




8. Picture of Hub that had been coated with anti seize:



9. Gorilla Wheel Lock where each nut is wheel lock, I tightened this nut using Torque Wrench set at 90lb-ft.



10. RIGHT Rear Wheel OZ vs. Left Rear Wheel OEM Wheel, notice the width and stance differences:



11. Rear Wheel Fender Gap (NOT LOWERED):




12. Front Wheel Fender Gap (NOT LOWERED):



13. Overall View:

 

I bet I front lip would really set that look off

 

Wow, we had the same idea !
I were thinking of either buying the Modulo Fit Shuttle Front Lips and Garnish,
or the Mugen Fit Shuttle Front Lower Spoiler.
But this is at least 2 to 3 months away,
need to obey the "Cash Flow" rule from my wife

Which front lips do you think is better:
The one on the left (Modulo) or the one on the right (Mugen):



Again:
Modulo:



or Mugen:

 

They're both nice.

And would widen the front end to match the larger wheels.

If I was in a place to even start thinking about that stuff I'd go with the Mugen.

I wish the modulo extended all the way across the front the more I look at it.

 

if u go modulo, i would love to sell you my front garnish =p. but really, i like the mugen look better. lines are seamless. and you get more for your money.

 

Hi xxryu139x,

I am very sure now that you are going to get the Mugen Shuttle Front Lower Spoiler sooner or later hehehe

by the way, you are right that if we combine the price of the Garnish and the Modulo Lips, it is very close to the price of the Full Mugen Shuttle Front Lower Spoiler,

but don't forget the Mugen only came in Pearl White Color (or unpainted),
so we still need to paint it, while the Modulo lips do came in Tafetta White.

plus the shipping cost for the Mugen is much more expensive since
it is longer then 1.5meter limit of EMS, while the Modulo can be shipped via EMS.

I already check with Tenso, and the cheapest shipping price they have is
almost $800 for that size.

so after painting and shipping the Mugen Shuttle Front Lower spoiler would cost about 3.5 times the cost of Modulo front lips...

putting cost aside,

I think the Modulo Lips would look more SPORTY then the Mugen but
at the same time also look TACKY...

The Mugen Shuttle Front Lower Spoiler would look more INTEGRATED and LUXURIOUS (expensive) but at the same time would make our Honda Fit look less sporty and more like luxury mini van...

at this moment, I am still confuse,
whether I want to look Sporty but Tacky (Modulo),
or Luxurious but Less Sporty (Mugen)...

Both of them had weakness too (my personal view)
From the front,
the Modulo do not make our car look as wide as I want,
but at the same time, the Mugen make our car looks wider (fatter) than what I want...

from the side the Modulo would be perfect,
the Mugen will make our car look nose heavy, because it was design to balance the longer Shuttle...
this would be more pronounced especially if I went with Rear JDM RS bumper to replace US Bumper...
since the JDM Fit RS Bumper have shorter overhang compare to US bumper.

oh well, I know, I am too picky and too complicated hahaha...

but at this moment,
I am more incline toward the tacky but sporty look

 

you know you are right. i haven't gone so far as to check out the cost of shipping for the bumper but i was leaning more around the $500 range for that. that's why its at the bottom of the list for upgrades. not really looking to spending $1000 for a bumper....yet. as far as color, they offer the modulo/mugen in alabaster silver metallic so i don't have that as a problem. u may want to check out the white color code, different regions have different names for the same damn color sometimes.

as far as the modulo look, i already got the shuttle grill. i got the modulo shuttle front garnish. maybe i might as well complete the look and tack on the shuttle emblem too! lol.

there are a lot of used bumpers for sale on yahoo auctions. its just a matter of finding a non-damaged one. sometimes there are mugen bumpers available too. and i believe i saw the modulo piece there also, but it was white.

 

Man those wheels look sharp and really give the Fit a Euro look.
I doubt I would even lower it and if so it would be mild like Swifts.

Thats just me though I do not like the slammed look.

 

Ahh it looks good Bro

 

Totally agree with you, I am NOT going to slammed it,
but
I will lower it with coil over for about 1inch maximum.
I need to do this because my wheel and tire combo is about 1inch larger in TOTAL diameter compare to stock wheel and tire
and that mean the car now is about 0.5in Taller (1inch divide by 2 = 0.5inch radius)
so the current center of gravity is even higher than stock,
that is why I need to lower it for about 1inch so the car will handle better then stock and look good while not giving me problem with scraping my bumper.

but first I need to ROLL my Fender before I can lower the car, hopefully tomorrow, ...



Thanks Wafulz

 

It's always the rears that are tough on the Fit, GD or GE

NICE choice on tires! I've always been a fan of the multi-spoke OZ wheels.

Rolling will be a good start, but if the GE rear is anything like the GD, you should also consider having the bumper mounting tab shaved/relocated. That's where things tend to rub most, even after a solid fender Roll.

+1 for Mugen front, cost concerns aside, it really looks the best.

As far as Swift's vs Coils, how soon do you want to be low? If its BEFORE NOW, you will not regret the Swifts, and if you shop about or look used $250 should get you setup. They hold value OK and can be re-sold when you decide on coils.

When you do that alignment with the camber bolts, I recommend throwing them in the lower hole and going at least -1.5 camber. MORE importantly have the front toe set to zero. Saves you some tire wear and sharpens up that turn in

ALL the coil options you have listed are solid (no joke on the Ohlin$), BUT honestly, I vote you wait for the Redshift Koni's. Chris has been great with updates and info, and the flexibility of ANY spring rate, with the easily rebuilt or replaced Koni strut inserts = easy repair/maintenance/any future upgrades.

Just my .02

 

Hello,
Thanks for all your valuable input,
It's look like for my GE, the place where it rub at the rear fender is the metal part of the fender, specifically the center part of the fender lips.
but of course if I lowered it, maybe it will rub the bumper mounting tab as you said, ... will found out after I lower it

I prefer to get coil over right away, that way I don't have to install/uninstall and do alignment 2 times, so for now I just have to drive slower (although our car can not go fast anyway hahaha)...

I do have question regarding the Camber bolt,
if I use 2 camber bolt per side, what is the maximum negative camber I could get?
cause I heard if you only using 1 bolt, you can only get around minus 1.25 only... is this true?

and which camber bolt is better, SPC or Eibach?

Thank You.

 

For whatever reason I prefer the JDP lip to either of the shuttle lips.

Those wheels look massive, the height combined with lack of any sort of lip provides an awkward visual effect.

 

On my GD with 2 camber bolts I can get stupid camber. On the rack my alignment guy was playing around and had it -6.0 no problem. I run -3.0

With one bolt in the lower hole, -1.5 is easily do able. Near -2.0 is.

You can run 2 bolts. I have, and have experienced NO problems with slippage or alignment changing, and I BEAT on my car in AutoX.

ALL camber bolts for the Fit are the same generic 14mm eccentric bolt. Pick one brand and stick to it to save the mechanic the headache of needing multiple wrenches and sockets to adjust both bolts.... I wish I had

 

Good deal sounds like you have a great plan for your Fit and the coils will give you the adjustability you need along with the bolts up front.

 

I like it so much more than I thought I would. Thanks for the detailed post.