DIY: Shifter Cable Bushing Upgrade
#1
DIY: Acuity Instruments Shifter Cable Bushing Upgrade
If you're looking at this section of the forum, there is good chance that you already know that the stock shifting mechanism on our cars are mediocre at best. They weren't developed with performance driving in mind. I will be showing you how to install upgraded GK5 shifter cable bushings by Acuity Instruments. They have designed a kit with a custom acetal and aluminum spherical bushing so you can experience a solid, smooth shift that will make you fall in love with your car again.
After installing the the bushings, you can immediately feel the lack of slack in the cables, and crisp stops of shift knob movement going from gear to gear. Before installation I could feel the cable stretching after going into gear probably due to the rubber flexing in the stock bushings. There is still play with the shift knob in-gear but that is mainly due to the stock shift assembly.
Tools Required:
-Philips head screw driver
-3/8" 10mm socket
-3/8" Rachet with extension
-Duckbill pliers
-Adjustable wrench with circular jaw
Procedure:
Step 1: Disconnect negative terminal on battery with 10mm just to be safe.
Step 2: Remove the stock air intake box There are two air ducts up front, one clamp on re-circulation pipe, one clamp on throttle body, two green clips for MAF sensor wire, MAF sensor connector, and two 10mm bolts holding down the intake box. When removing the re-circulation pipe, be careful not to disconnect the pipe behind it. It contains coolant to cool the throttle body (don't ask how I know..)
Step 3: Once you have the airbox out of the way, you should be able to see the transmission with two cables with round ends attached on top. Remove cotter pins from stock rubber cable bushings.
Step 4: Using an adjustable wrench with a circular jaw, hold the circular cable ends firmly while using a screw driver to carefully pry out the stock rubber bushing without bending the cable itself.
Step 5: Closely paying attention to direction, press the Acuity bushings in until flush with cable end. Attach the supplied rings and cotter pins.
Step 6: Install airbox, connect MAF sensor, negative terminal, and don't forget to reset your clock.
Enjoy!!
After installing the the bushings, you can immediately feel the lack of slack in the cables, and crisp stops of shift knob movement going from gear to gear. Before installation I could feel the cable stretching after going into gear probably due to the rubber flexing in the stock bushings. There is still play with the shift knob in-gear but that is mainly due to the stock shift assembly.
Tools Required:
-Philips head screw driver
-3/8" 10mm socket
-3/8" Rachet with extension
-Duckbill pliers
-Adjustable wrench with circular jaw
Procedure:
Step 1: Disconnect negative terminal on battery with 10mm just to be safe.
Step 2: Remove the stock air intake box There are two air ducts up front, one clamp on re-circulation pipe, one clamp on throttle body, two green clips for MAF sensor wire, MAF sensor connector, and two 10mm bolts holding down the intake box. When removing the re-circulation pipe, be careful not to disconnect the pipe behind it. It contains coolant to cool the throttle body (don't ask how I know..)
Step 3: Once you have the airbox out of the way, you should be able to see the transmission with two cables with round ends attached on top. Remove cotter pins from stock rubber cable bushings.
Step 4: Using an adjustable wrench with a circular jaw, hold the circular cable ends firmly while using a screw driver to carefully pry out the stock rubber bushing without bending the cable itself.
Step 5: Closely paying attention to direction, press the Acuity bushings in until flush with cable end. Attach the supplied rings and cotter pins.
Step 6: Install airbox, connect MAF sensor, negative terminal, and don't forget to reset your clock.
Enjoy!!
Last edited by nisco; 10-17-2017 at 11:19 PM.
#3
I have the U70A mount installed, and car feels like a race car now. Engine response improved dramatically, can tell thru the shifts..
#5
How's the vibration with the 70A? I was thinking about 62A since its still my daily, but if it's bearable I may go with 70A.
And thanks! Just trying to give back to the community I've learned a lot from. I REALLY need to address the brakes too.. Soo mushy it' s borderline scary hahaha
And thanks! Just trying to give back to the community I've learned a lot from. I REALLY need to address the brakes too.. Soo mushy it' s borderline scary hahaha
#6
How's the vibration with the 70A? I was thinking about 62A since its still my daily, but if it's bearable I may go with 70A.
And thanks! Just trying to give back to the community I've learned a lot from. I REALLY need to address the brakes too.. Soo mushy it' s borderline scary hahaha
And thanks! Just trying to give back to the community I've learned a lot from. I REALLY need to address the brakes too.. Soo mushy it' s borderline scary hahaha
And yes, our stock brakes sucks. I was just about to get my EBC pads/rotors TechnaFit Ss Lines installed until the shop owner mentioned that switching to dot 4 would be a bad idea since it is impossible to gell all dot 3 out of the ABS system. I might have to just stick to Honda Dot 3 :/
#7
The vibration was a little intense the 1st 2 weeks, now that im at week 4, the vibration has settled, and i think its bearable. One more level up and it might get really annoying. I say U70A it!
And yes, our stock brakes sucks. I was just about to get my EBC pads/rotors TechnaFit Ss Lines installed until the shop owner mentioned that switching to dot 4 would be a bad idea since it is impossible to gell all dot 3 out of the ABS system. I might have to just stick to Honda Dot 3 :/
And yes, our stock brakes sucks. I was just about to get my EBC pads/rotors TechnaFit Ss Lines installed until the shop owner mentioned that switching to dot 4 would be a bad idea since it is impossible to gell all dot 3 out of the ABS system. I might have to just stick to Honda Dot 3 :/
You got some BAD information there.
DOT3 and DOT4 are compatible and mixed together or interchanged all of the time. Read the can labels or on the Internet for more information.
The biggest difference between DOT 3 and DOT 4 is it's wet boiling point. On a small car like a FIT I doubt that you will be concerned with wet point numbers.
Do NOT use DOT 5. It is not compatible with DOT 3/4.
#8
Excellent write-up, nisco. I appreciate it very much. It inspired me to purchase the bushings and attempt the DIY.
I was unable to complete the job once I got to the stock bushings. I understand your instructions, but need a little more clarification:
I started with the larger of the two bushings and it seems like I need to slide the stock bushing (inside of its circular cable end) up and off the center spindle so that I have enough leverage to push and pry the bushing up and out, but my concern came from your warning not to bend the cable at all. Does sliding the bushing up and off its spindle bend the cable with that up and down movement, or did you mean not to bend the cable laterally (in a left/right direction)?
Also, do I really need a circular jaw wrench to hold the circular cable end or can I hold it by hand?
Any and all help is appreciated!
I was unable to complete the job once I got to the stock bushings. I understand your instructions, but need a little more clarification:
I started with the larger of the two bushings and it seems like I need to slide the stock bushing (inside of its circular cable end) up and off the center spindle so that I have enough leverage to push and pry the bushing up and out, but my concern came from your warning not to bend the cable at all. Does sliding the bushing up and off its spindle bend the cable with that up and down movement, or did you mean not to bend the cable laterally (in a left/right direction)?
Also, do I really need a circular jaw wrench to hold the circular cable end or can I hold it by hand?
Any and all help is appreciated!
#9
Thank you for your kind words WagovanMan.
Im currently at work but hope this quick sketch will help you out. In short, yes I'd reccomend using the jaw pliers to prevent loosing grip when holding with your hands. The bushings are pressed in with more pressure than our hands can handle lol
Im currently at work but hope this quick sketch will help you out. In short, yes I'd reccomend using the jaw pliers to prevent loosing grip when holding with your hands. The bushings are pressed in with more pressure than our hands can handle lol
Excellent write-up, nisco. I appreciate it very much. It inspired me to purchase the bushings and attempt the DIY.
I was unable to complete the job once I got to the stock bushings. I understand your instructions, but need a little more clarification:
I started with the larger of the two bushings and it seems like I need to slide the stock bushing (inside of its circular cable end) up and off the center spindle so that I have enough leverage to push and pry the bushing up and out, but my concern came from your warning not to bend the cable at all. Does sliding the bushing up and off its spindle bend the cable with that up and down movement, or did you mean not to bend the cable laterally (in a left/right direction)?
Also, do I really need a circular jaw wrench to hold the circular cable end or can I hold it by hand?
Any and all help is appreciated!
I was unable to complete the job once I got to the stock bushings. I understand your instructions, but need a little more clarification:
I started with the larger of the two bushings and it seems like I need to slide the stock bushing (inside of its circular cable end) up and off the center spindle so that I have enough leverage to push and pry the bushing up and out, but my concern came from your warning not to bend the cable at all. Does sliding the bushing up and off its spindle bend the cable with that up and down movement, or did you mean not to bend the cable laterally (in a left/right direction)?
Also, do I really need a circular jaw wrench to hold the circular cable end or can I hold it by hand?
Any and all help is appreciated!
#10
Thanks nisco! Great success.
Just a disclaimer for anyone interested in this upgrade;
If you already have a rear mount for your GK5, you might not notice much of a difference after the bushing upgrade.
Don't get me wrong, I do notice improved motion from the shifter, but I think it would be even more dramatic if I didn't have the rear mount.
Good investment either way because it's relatively inexpensive and easy enough to DIY.
Just a disclaimer for anyone interested in this upgrade;
If you already have a rear mount for your GK5, you might not notice much of a difference after the bushing upgrade.
Don't get me wrong, I do notice improved motion from the shifter, but I think it would be even more dramatic if I didn't have the rear mount.
Good investment either way because it's relatively inexpensive and easy enough to DIY.
#19
it makes for a "clicky" feel when shifting
I was able to achieve that feel even more, with a new weighted shifter
IMO, it was not worth the $74. If I had to buy a 2nd GK5, I would skip this mod and apply that $74 elsewhere
I was able to achieve that feel even more, with a new weighted shifter
IMO, it was not worth the $74. If I had to buy a 2nd GK5, I would skip this mod and apply that $74 elsewhere
#20
i see i see.. that's wot i saw in some review also ... i guess i'll just wait for short throw shifter that may or may not come out hhahahahahah
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