2015 FIT doesn't start, squeals and stops when start
Help! No symptom of any problem before, and yesterday it didn't start, made a squealing sound and then automatically disengaged the starting process.
Here's video of the sound made:
Haven't seen this starting problem before. Battery measured 12.47V and should be fine. Besides, I don't think low battery would cause the terrible sound.
I just had the tired rotated at Walmart autocenter the day before, which is probably just a coincident that the starting problem happened the day after.
Would really appreciate if any of you can give me some clue. Otherwise, I would have to get it towed to a mechanic. Thanks in advance.
Here's video of the sound made:
Haven't seen this starting problem before. Battery measured 12.47V and should be fine. Besides, I don't think low battery would cause the terrible sound.
I just had the tired rotated at Walmart autocenter the day before, which is probably just a coincident that the starting problem happened the day after.
Would really appreciate if any of you can give me some clue. Otherwise, I would have to get it towed to a mechanic. Thanks in advance.
Sounds like the starter isn't rotating (the engine) at all so that could be a starter issue (low current or low voltage). Was an oil change performed as well (is there an appropriate level on the dipstick)?
If this is an Auto transmission, try to start in N (with your foot on the brake); if MT - try to start in N or 2nd gear (clutch pedal in of course).
If this is an Auto transmission, try to start in N (with your foot on the brake); if MT - try to start in N or 2nd gear (clutch pedal in of course).
Sorry to hear that!
Do you have a key start or pushbutton start model? Starters are known for early failure in both, but especially the pushbutton start models.
If you have a pushbutton start, the starter and the power switch are part of the same circuit, so it's hard to tell where the problem lies, in the starter or the switch. If you look at some of the posts here, both have been replaced when the other is the culprit. I believe the circuit design of the pushbutton start is not robust enough to carry the load of repeatedly starting the engine from zero voltage, so eventually something fails.
If you have a key start, then it's probably the starter failing, or possibly an interlock / relay. The key start models don't seem to have the same switch issue since a key completes the circuit mechanically, not electrically. The good news is that it's less problematic to troubleshoot than the pushbutton start models.
Do you have a key start or pushbutton start model? Starters are known for early failure in both, but especially the pushbutton start models.
If you have a pushbutton start, the starter and the power switch are part of the same circuit, so it's hard to tell where the problem lies, in the starter or the switch. If you look at some of the posts here, both have been replaced when the other is the culprit. I believe the circuit design of the pushbutton start is not robust enough to carry the load of repeatedly starting the engine from zero voltage, so eventually something fails.
If you have a key start, then it's probably the starter failing, or possibly an interlock / relay. The key start models don't seem to have the same switch issue since a key completes the circuit mechanically, not electrically. The good news is that it's less problematic to troubleshoot than the pushbutton start models.
Sounds like the starter isn't rotating (the engine) at all so that could be a starter issue (low current or low voltage). Was an oil change performed as well (is there an appropriate level on the dipstick)?
If this is an Auto transmission, try to start in N (with your foot on the brake); if MT - try to start in N or 2nd gear (clutch pedal in of course).
If this is an Auto transmission, try to start in N (with your foot on the brake); if MT - try to start in N or 2nd gear (clutch pedal in of course).
We didn't have an oil change with the tire rotation. Dip stick shows there is oil.
Sorry to hear that!
Do you have a key start or pushbutton start model? Starters are known for early failure in both, but especially the pushbutton start models.
If you have a pushbutton start, the starter and the power switch are part of the same circuit, so it's hard to tell where the problem lies, in the starter or the switch. If you look at some of the posts here, both have been replaced when the other is the culprit. I believe the circuit design of the pushbutton start is not robust enough to carry the load of repeatedly starting the engine from zero voltage, so eventually something fails.
If you have a key start, then it's probably the starter failing, or possibly an interlock / relay. The key start models don't seem to have the same switch issue since a key completes the circuit mechanically, not electrically. The good news is that it's less problematic to troubleshoot than the pushbutton start models.
Do you have a key start or pushbutton start model? Starters are known for early failure in both, but especially the pushbutton start models.
If you have a pushbutton start, the starter and the power switch are part of the same circuit, so it's hard to tell where the problem lies, in the starter or the switch. If you look at some of the posts here, both have been replaced when the other is the culprit. I believe the circuit design of the pushbutton start is not robust enough to carry the load of repeatedly starting the engine from zero voltage, so eventually something fails.
If you have a key start, then it's probably the starter failing, or possibly an interlock / relay. The key start models don't seem to have the same switch issue since a key completes the circuit mechanically, not electrically. The good news is that it's less problematic to troubleshoot than the pushbutton start models.
It's a key starter, not pushbutton.
The starter could indeed be the culprit like you said. Sounds like the starter is a weak point in these Honda FIT?
Or could it be the water pump seized? I tried rotating the flywheel. The flywheel is rotating, but nothing else is rotating with it as if something in the belt system is seized, and so the flywheel was just slipping under the belt squealing a bit when I moved it. That's not normal, is it?
There are three problem areas in the '15 Fits onward: fuel injector / rail assembly, starters, and the VTC actuator.
Of those, the injectors are the worst. Easily $2k in repairs, they have to be replaced in quad-matched sets. In other words, even if one goes, can't replace just one.
Starters are second. VTC actuator - makes a horrible grinding noise at cold startup, but doesn't affect the engine. If you can live with the noise, don't replace.
Now getting back to your issue. I don't think a water pump seizing is the issue, as that rarely prevents a vehicle from starting just on its own.
Have you tried a jump start?
Of those, the injectors are the worst. Easily $2k in repairs, they have to be replaced in quad-matched sets. In other words, even if one goes, can't replace just one.
Starters are second. VTC actuator - makes a horrible grinding noise at cold startup, but doesn't affect the engine. If you can live with the noise, don't replace.
Now getting back to your issue. I don't think a water pump seizing is the issue, as that rarely prevents a vehicle from starting just on its own.
Have you tried a jump start?
If you’re running the original battery it’s about five years old and may be getting toward the end of its useful life. I’d have the battery load tested. It may show good voltage with a voltmeter but still not have enough charge to engage the starter.
My starter went bad, it would make a single click when I turned the key. After a few tries, it would start, but the few tries ended up turning into a dozen or more, each with a single click and then nothing. When the starter would engage, it would start like normal.
Yours sounds like a bad battery is the most likely. I'll give bargainguy's idea a second vote, try a jump start. If it works, you know it's the battery.
Yours sounds like a bad battery is the most likely. I'll give bargainguy's idea a second vote, try a jump start. If it works, you know it's the battery.
Update: I got the car towed to a mechanic. The car started without problem in the shop! The culprit seems to be ice jammed up the belt preventing the pulley system from moving when the car was started. I hope this post can help somebody with similar problem in the future.
The car was parked on the driveway, and it's freezing cold in NH this time of year. The guy who rotated the tires the day before probably spilled water in the belt area without us knowing it, hence causing the problem.
I certainly hope that's it, and not something else. The mechanic had checked the starter to be fine. There is no weird noise coming from any of the bearings in the area, so those are probably fine as well. When the mechanic pulled the belt out, some water was detected underneath. And so ice jamming was his best guess.
Thanks to everyone here for your help. All very good suggestions. I learned something new. This is a nice forum with a very nice community here.
The car was parked on the driveway, and it's freezing cold in NH this time of year. The guy who rotated the tires the day before probably spilled water in the belt area without us knowing it, hence causing the problem.
I certainly hope that's it, and not something else. The mechanic had checked the starter to be fine. There is no weird noise coming from any of the bearings in the area, so those are probably fine as well. When the mechanic pulled the belt out, some water was detected underneath. And so ice jamming was his best guess.
Thanks to everyone here for your help. All very good suggestions. I learned something new. This is a nice forum with a very nice community here.
I have another car that stopped cranking after first crank. In the end it was the battery even though it was charged to 13.4 volts. It is the amount of the current that is required to start the engine, not just the voltage. I would have your local pep boys, autozone check the condition of the battery.
Update: I got the car towed to a mechanic. The car started without problem in the shop! The culprit seems to be ice jammed up the belt preventing the pulley system from moving when the car was started. I hope this post can help somebody with similar problem in the future.
The car was parked on the driveway, and it's freezing cold in NH this time of year. The guy who rotated the tires the day before probably spilled water in the belt area without us knowing it, hence causing the problem.
I certainly hope that's it, and not something else. The mechanic had checked the starter to be fine. There is no weird noise coming from any of the bearings in the area, so those are probably fine as well. When the mechanic pulled the belt out, some water was detected underneath. And so ice jamming was his best guess.
Thanks to everyone here for your help. All very good suggestions. I learned something new. This is a nice forum with a very nice community here.
The car was parked on the driveway, and it's freezing cold in NH this time of year. The guy who rotated the tires the day before probably spilled water in the belt area without us knowing it, hence causing the problem.
I certainly hope that's it, and not something else. The mechanic had checked the starter to be fine. There is no weird noise coming from any of the bearings in the area, so those are probably fine as well. When the mechanic pulled the belt out, some water was detected underneath. And so ice jamming was his best guess.
Thanks to everyone here for your help. All very good suggestions. I learned something new. This is a nice forum with a very nice community here.
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