Yes, that is a handy tool, but I prefer a cordless impact driver. I can adjust the pressure from very light to very heavy.

 

As in the tool for driving deck screws and such? Again, let everyone know If that works for you.

 

Right. That's what I would use.

 

I forgot to post this earlier. It's a short video on JIS screws with a lot of interesting information:

 

Excellent video.

 

I'm getting the same Akebono Part Number for my '13 Fit. So, if I can find these pads in a local retail store like Parts Authority, they will be the same complete set as the OEM part? Just checking.

 

Installed the powerstop evolution Geomet rotors today.

First impression: I preferred the raybestos coated rotors. The Geomet coating seems to come off fairly easily. I bought raybestos R Line pads and they come with tiny wishbone clips that push the pads apart. I like this concept, it should assist the pad in retracting. A bit hard to install because they have a tendency to fling the pads out of their abutment clips before you can lower the caliper.

for the first time, I used an impact and I was able to zap off the bleeder screws with no concern for snapping them. I did hit them with liquid wrench but it’s the impact that did the trick. I had to run 1 1/2 bottles of brake fluid to get the clutch and brake lines to expel clear fluid.

The bed in process is a real hassle in the city. Have to get to 30-40 mph and brake medium hard down to 5 ish 30 times. You cant come to a complete stop during the process or else the hot pad will transfer material to one area and you will end up with brake pulsation. Akebono states you don’t have to do this, but powerstop says you have to bed in the rotor. I’m with powerstop on this one; gotta scrape off the coating prior to driving. It is a hassle so if I wasn’t using coated rotors, I’d say Akebono pads are worth the extra money to not have to do a bed in.

came with one pesky rotor screw. I used a drill and started with the clutch on the lowest setting and moved it up until the screw backed out. Went out at about 1/3 power. First time I didn’t have to drill it out. The rotors were seized on good so I used an M8 to pop the rotors off and off they came without much effort. This feature is awesome.

i saw a YouTuber that removes the rubber anti rattle bushing on the end of the bottom caliper pin because he said they could bind. I think I had put the bumper slide pin in the top bore after I had cleaned the bores and it was very hard to remove. So I elected to do the same and remove the bumpers. Time will tell if this causes any issues. The slides had not been greased yet and had them in there to keep clean until I reassembled and was surprised how bound up the rubber bushing was.

brakes feel great now. It was due; on the driver side I had to remove the caliper bracket and bang out the inner pad with a hammer. It was frozen in place. New pads, new hardware, cleaned and greased the slide pins and boots, new rotors, new brake and clutch fluid and all four corners bled in sequence.


Crusty rotor.

M8 screw trick

Inner corrosion.

Used a wheel stud puller tool and a lug nut to hold on the rotor while I worked. I did clean the stains (probably MolyKote) prior to installing the wheel. I hate through style lug nuts and plan on getting some replacements from Kenny U Pull.

 

Imagine, having a sumo wrestler to stop the Fit isn't bad...