Hello,

The threads on one of my rear wheel studs is severely galled. Looking at the design of the rear hub on the GK, it looks like if I remove the shoes, I could bang the stud out with a hammer and pull a new one in from behind. I know the proper way would be to get the hub out but it is likely so seized in there that I would likely kill the bearing more if I tried to remove the hub than just bang it out with the hub installed.

turns out I have to replace the shoes anyway so I could try this.

has anyone tried this?

 

Do yourself a favor and get a crayon and a yellow map torch - maybe 20-60 bucks. It's worth it. TRUST me.
Heat AROUND the bad stud for about 20-30 seconds or until smoking/near discoloration, whichever comes first; apply crayon to front and back side.
Remove shoes.
Heat again and let the crayon work in for 10-15 sec.
Give er a nice wack with a 2 lb hammer, you should be fine.

If you run into a space issue, these rear W.B.s are bolt in so you can move as necessary. Mind the ABS connector. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the tips. Do you think a candle will do just as well or do crayons have some magic wax that works better? I already have a MAP torch because I live in a rust prone area. Although the hub is bolt on, I’m pretty sure the collar that fits into the receiver will be uber stuck in there from 10 years of road salt. I’ll try and see if I can wedge something behind the hub so my hammer strike doesn’t damage the bearing as much.

just looking at a pic of a hub assy, those studs are so tiny and the hub is so tall, I’m confident I’ll have plenty of room to get it on. I’ll try and take some pics of the process if can. It seems that if you orient the hub a certain way, the stud will clear the mating flange giving even more room.

 

Crayon 100%. Wax seems to have more friction when solid; far less force needed with crayon, I've tried wax. Night and day.
I wouldn't worry about bearing damage unless your sledging it and hit the hub REAL real hard.

 

So I did my rear drums today. I also changed out three chowdered wheel studs on the driver side. Last time I tried torquing my left rear wheel, one of the nuts was still turning before my torque could click 😬. I managed to use another nut to grab on the threads. Threw the bad nut in the trash. Anyway, those studs are gone and it's a super easy job. I can’t confirm if it’s possible to remove a stud without removing the drum hardware. I was replacing the shoes so I didn’t bother to find out.


Wheel stud that would hold torque. Also you can see the super coroded drum.

I’ve never seen anything like this before. The threads a FUBAR.

Parts I used.

Loads of clearance to install the stud from behind. 2 good whacks from a regular hammer and out came the bad studs. No heat, no penetrating oil, nothing. I couldn’t get the “splines” to align with the old ones and it took nearly the highest setting on my impact driver to pull these through with lug nut. I wouldn’t want to attempt this with a wrench.

3/4 new studs. Yeah! Managed to push out the stupid cylinder piston while installing the new shoes and out it came and landed on the ground. Told myself I would never do that again then did it again on the other side. I had recently bled the brakes so I easily cracked open the bleeders and bled both sides and got rid of the air. I truly hate installing drum brake hardware and springs.

Powerstop Geomet coated drums. Probably due to the coating, when I was adjusting the shoes, no hand brake resulted in slight drag and one click meant impossible to turn by hand. It was possible to turn the wheel with difficultly at 1 click with the wheel on. Easiest adjustment I’ve ever done. The coating inside will likely wear out a bit in the next 100 km of driving.

That’s how the drums look with my GD sport rims. I like GD rims on the GK. It has an OEM look even though I know it’s not the true sport wheels. For those that noticed, I have 2 through style lug nuts which I hate so I have to go to the junk yard and pull off some proper closed Honda lug nuts. When I sent my totaled GD away to car heaven, kept two of every four lug nuts because f* my insurance company and the estimate they did on the repairs. Also kept my sport rims as you can see.

 

This is a wheel lug installing tool. Got it for less than 10 bucks and it worked like a charm. I highly recommend this tool to anyone attempting to install new wheel studs. Like I said, I had to go semi hard on my impact to pull these in. Also, not possible to apply the handbrake so the hub is free spinning. You could use a breaker bar through some studs to hold the hub but in that case you can’t remove three studs like I did or else you won’t be able to hold the hub.

now my handbrake can only go about 4 clicks before locking. I couldn’t bother to loosen the cable and like I stated previously, the coating inside the drums will likely wear off and increase the tolerance slightly.

 

Unrelated to this repair, while I was at it, I tried unscrewing my MAF sensor but the screws where totally seized. So I removed the air filter cover and cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner from inside the intake. When I reinstalled my airbox, it threw a pending code right away « low voltage ». My air filter was a bit dirty and had a brand new Honda one so I changed the filter and the code went away. In all honesty, the sensor may not have been 100% dry although I did leave it to dry a few minutes before reassembling.

my car still feels a bit hesitant in first and second gear. I’ve but a bottle of redline in my gas tank, changed the plugs to Iridium IX and now cleaned my MAF sensor + new air filter. Do GK coils go bad like GD coils? I likely have the original coils. Have people noticed a big improvement from replacing coils on a GK? Is it still hitachi that makes the OEM coils?

 

I was told by someone to replace the coils at 100K when replacing the spark plugs. The coils do deteriorate over time and they can suddenly go bad at any time just like a spark plug so they should be considered a "wear" item. Hitachi is the OEM supplier and since you're in Canada you can get them from Amazon Canada:


These are made in Mexico. There are a lot of Chinese imitations out there, do yourself a favor and don't buy them. You can look around and see if someone has the Hitachi Japan versions if you prefer.

 

Good report. Helpful. Thank you.

 

How about a part number or some info on that wheel lug installing tool? Thanks.

 

certainly! Glad you liked the post and shout out to 2015LXFit that helped me convince
myself I could do this.


[img alt="Price is in $ CDN. I may have said it was less than 10$, so ok, it was 13$. I much prefer this to using a bunch of washers and grease to create a spacer. A few packs of washers would probably cost nearly the price of this tool. It has a conical feature that centers the lug nut which ain’t bad at all.

"]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fitfreak.net-vbulletin/1242x1836/481af8ff_e439_4a1e_9b95_f20eb6a43e97_838795eb675aa cc7835fd1994b7b26bef4d609f1.jpeg[/img]
Price is in $ CDN. I may have said it was less than 10$, so ok, it was 13$. I much prefer this to using a bunch of washers and grease to create a spacer. A few packs of washers would probably cost nearly the price of this tool. It has a conical feature that centers the lug nut which ain’t bad at all.

it is obviously a junk Chinese brand but it seems that P/N 22800 will find other similar models. Maybe you can find one from a reputable brand like Lisle.

my concern was that the lug studs are actually pretty short on the Fit but this had plenty of threads protruding when loosely installing the stud/nut prior to ugga dugga’ing it in with my impact.I’ll state again that it would probably have been no fun to do this with wrenches and trying to hold the hub while press fitting the stud. Impact wrench highly recommended.

description also says “stud removal” except I can’t imagine how you would use that to remove a stud.

 

Just hit 206k. Only replaced one coil so far; 3rd set of plugs. I've noticed Honda's over time like to get throttle body clean and relearns as well as crank relearns. Barring the obvious valve clean/adjustments every 60-80k. May help your hesitancy. Had a recent 2015 CRV with sluggish performance, crank relearn and TB clean / teach in did the trick.

2012 A8 4.2L

Fixed - fuel trims. Amazing throttle response now.


https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...procedure.html

See bottom of thread. Just mark location on motor gear and intermediate gear to line back up. Be well.

 

my 2015 has a weird 2nd gear stumble at low revs from the day i bought it...If the car hadnt been brand new i would have thought something was wrong....how long have you had the car?...it might just be something to get used too, it seemed to get less with time TBH but i might have just got used to it also

 

ive had the car for a bit over a month. In first, I tend to release the clutch fairly quickly and give it a good amount of gas. I do some city driving and wish to extend the life of the clutch by avoiding inching away from every complete stop. Occasionally, when fully releasing the clutch, the engine felt like it was getting bogged down, like if I wasn’t giving it sufficient gas, which I am.

It also happened to me in second the sensation that I was in too low a gear; the acceleration was sputtering. I tend to stay in first to about 4000 rpms because that’s how I drive: fast of the line and get into cruising gear as soon as soon as possible so it’s definitely not a case of early shifting.

the second gear issue did seem to go away after a while. I noticed it after I cleaned the MAF sensor and I’m thinking the car had to adapt slightly. I may try and do an idle relearn to see if that helps even more. I may try and clean the throttle body eventually. I don’t think I can purchase berrymans throttle body cleaner and lube in Canada. Any other product you suggest for lubricating the throttle body gear and throttle valve shaft?

 

Option 1 would be MAF or throttle body cleaner by CRC. Lighter solvent but works well. IPA works also. Never get into electronic components if you can help. Shouldn't hurt it but dislodging possible conductive debris unless you have a runout spot is less than idea/.

Option 2 is for bore only, recently I had to use brake cleaner on a higher mileage Mitsubishi TB. Carb cleaner could work as well. Same thing. Make sure it doesnt get on electronic components as THESE TWO WILL LIKELY DAMAGE THEM. Chase with lighter solvent to remove residues from the heavy solvents

I use a drill and small nylon brush if need be. Lube
shaft with any light duty grease that can withstand at least 200 deg F. Just look at the MSDS and then evap point on whatever you have if you're resource constricted. Lube intermediate gear shaft as well as butterfly valve shaft as necessary. A thin coating is okay. Attached is Mitsu TB. At approx 276k miles the vehicle now glides with a feathers touch of the gas pedal.


Before

After

 

@2015LXFIT Good post.