When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If any of you are using Windows 11, you probably realize that it's a step down from Windows 10. Everything seems to require more clicks to get things done.
It's the same with the Fit. If I want to reset the TPMS light in my 2015, I reach down and hold a button for a few seconds. I tried resetting that light on my son's 2020 this morning, and I gave up. I've done it before, so I know it's possible, but there are too many steps involved, and the final step didn't work.
Using the paddle on the right side of the steering wheel, I cycled through the choices till I got to TPMS. Then I pressed "Sel" to select it, but it didn't reset. It just moved to the next option. I tried this half a dozen times with no luck. At least I know the tire pressures are right.
Has the switch had beverage splashed on it or anything?
I don't have a wiring diagram page that covers the MID buttons specifically, but the other steering wheel controls are wired in clusters. For instance, all the cruise buttons share a single signal wire back to the gauge cluster. They do this by connecting each button to a unique value of resistor. When a button is pressed, its resistor gets connected to the signal wire, the CPU in the gauge cluster sees the resistance and decodes it as its respective button press.
If the select button is crudded up, the button itself could be showing some resistance when pressed, when it should act more or less as a dead short. That crud-resistance would get added to the button's unique resistor value, making it look like a different button got pressed.
Has the switch had beverage splashed on it or anything?
I don't have a wiring diagram page that covers the MID buttons specifically, but the other steering wheel controls are wired in clusters. For instance, all the cruise buttons share a single signal wire back to the gauge cluster. They do this by connecting each button to a unique value of resistor. When a button is pressed, its resistor gets connected to the signal wire, the CPU in the gauge cluster sees the resistance and decodes it as its respective button press.
If the select button is crudded up, the button itself could be showing some resistance when pressed, when it should act more or less as a dead short. That crud-resistance would get added to the button's unique resistor value, making it look like a different button got pressed.
Nope. The buttons are clean, and everything works except selecting the TPMS to reset it.
everything works except selecting the TPMS to reset it.
Is the warning light on? Have you tried ignition on, engine off? Ignition on, engine on?
Has the TPMS thrown a warning? If not, try deflating one tire (rear is probably safest) to ~15 PSI and then driving around the block to get the warning light on. Park, ignition off, air up the tire to its proper pressure, ignition on (engine on or off if it matters), trigger reset, drive the car on a straight road to finish the reset/relearn.
Is the warning light on? Have you tried ignition on, engine off? Ignition on, engine on?
Has the TPMS thrown a warning? If not, try deflating one tire (rear is probably safest) to ~15 PSI and then driving around the block to get the warning light on. Park, ignition off, air up the tire to its proper pressure, ignition on (engine on or off if it matters), trigger reset, drive the car on a straight road to finish the reset/relearn.
Yes, yes, and yes. Maybe I'll try it again today. As long as I know the tire pressures are okay, I'm not concerned. Just annoyed.
I could bring it to the dealer and pay $2,500 for lots of new electronics, but I don't think I'll do that.
The GK TPMS is a function of the ABS/VSA unit. If your scan tool can read ABS codes, it should (in theory) be able to access TPMS codes, though it would depend on the tool's software to interpret them. Probably a C1xxx or C0xxx code.
