Does anyone have any information or speculation as to whether or not the heated side mirrors with built in turn signals featured on the EX-Ls will be compatible with other trim levels? I have an EX on order and would love to know if I'll be able to swap them with little or no issues.

 

Those mirrors aren't cheap. Each one costs hundreds of dollars. Add up all the labor and it would probably be cheaper just to upgrade to the EX-L. The heated seats are nice.

Part Detail

 

Those mirrors may become cheap in the future. Self-install probably isn't TOO challenging and I bet the places for the wiring and switches is all in place in the body/cabin.

It doesn't seem out of the question. I mean, people install their own fog lights with no problem and that seems more difficult.

 

I wanted the MT more than leather seats. Plus I live in New Orleans where leather seats sound like hell. Love those mirrors though!

 

While not cheap in parts cost it's cheap to do the replacement. There is no wiring modifications needed making this a true plug and play modification.
Don't ask me how I know this, it's not like I'm a Honda service advisor and swapped a mirror from a in stock unit onto my car to test it or anything like that....

 

15BlkPrl- Any idea how much a light would be?

 

Will check with my parts dept tomorrow as I'm off today.

 

No Wiring, Eh?! That's awesome! How do you install the interior switch to turn on the heated mirror though?

 

I looked into this myself for my 2011. The molex connectors have the open spaces to add the two wires for the heating element built into the mirror itself. The trick was to wire it into the existing defrost switch.

Three Problems:

1. The wiring gauge is under sized off the defrost switch buss
2. The overprotect fuse is undersized
3. Relays/timer switches (rear window defroster) are likely undersized to handle the extra amperage to run the mirrors as it was not part of the original schematic wiring diagram for this trim.

To make the heated mirrors mod work PROPERLY you need to increase the wire gauge, increase the overprotect fuse rating, and switch out the relay/timers to handle the added current.

One could conceivably splice a separate slave relay/timer switch off the defroster switch and power the mirrors off a separate fuse buss. This prevents overload of the defroster buss. The limitation with this setup is if the timer for the rear window shuts off before the mirrors can finish defrosting, that cuts power to the mirrors before they have a chance to finish defrosting. This may not always be the case, but it is a limitation. Ideally you should have two independent circuits off a properly sized buss with separate relay/timers.

 

It's the same switch as the rear window defogger. So no extra switch needed.

 

There is a timer on the switch on the 2015 for rear window defrost? Wish I had this on my GE as I am always forgetting to turn it off.

I am just guessing the wiring would be sufficient to add mirror heaters. I have them standard on my GE Canadian Fit. I don't see them using different wiring back then from the US Fits for this feature.

 

Yes, all defrost circuits have them. Basically when you turn on the defroster, it energizes the relay and timer starting a 10 minute cycle. After that period it shuts off preventing unnecessary draw on the electrical system. After another set period of being off, the timer resets and begins the time minute cycle again.


The mirrors don't take up as much current as the rear window. The concern would be undersized wire can get too hot causing a fire from insulation breakdown. Even if you could get away using the existing wiring harness, one would need to re-size the over protect fuse. For example a typical 10A rear defroster may now need a 15A fuse with the mirrors, not saying this is what is needed but a few measurements could be taken to calculate the current drawn from all the devices.


This is a mod I will be looking into at some point, because being in CT, damn those "Polar Vortex" winters. I would expect our Canadian counterparts will tell me," Well I'm up in northern Ontario, you don't know cold ha!"

 

Here is some tidbit info on this subject that I think will make everyone excited about.


Fit EX Mirror SUB assembly part# (Glass/bracket w/o heating grid)


Left: 76253-T5R-305 ~$36.46 USD
Right: 76203-T5R-305 ~$31.07 USD


Fit EX-L Mirror Glass SUB assembly part# (Glass/bracket with heating grid)


Left: 76253-T5R-306 ~$44.02
Right: 76203-T5R-306 ~$37.04 USD


Now there is no individual part# for the actuator assembly where this mirror mounts. You would have to purchase essentially the entire mirror "ear" to replace it. Not practical at all. Its a simple plastic clip. That means that the mount is the same for either the EX or EX-L. I had my Honda contact confirm this!!


***You can see visually what I'm talking about in this guys post when he removes the plastic mounting bracket that's stuck to the glass that clips to the actuator.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-exterior-modifications-jdm-styling/78631-diy-side-mirror-led-turn-signal-arrow-lights.html#post1189657

So this mod is not as hard to perform in theory.


1. Install the mirrors
2. Run the two wires from each mirror to a 12 volt SPST N/O RELAY
3. Tie all ground wires from mirrors/relay together to suitable frame ground
4. Connect the relay COIL HOT to the SWITCHED side of the rear defroster switch
5. Connect the relay incoming power terminal to an ignition switch bus (not always on) fused at 10A (still need to confirm fuse size in manual)
6. Connect the two mirror hot wires to the relay output power. DONE!


This setup achieves two things...


1. This setup will prevent overload of the rear defroster. The rear defroster and side mirrors will turn on with the defrost switch simultaneously on their own fused bus


2. The timer relay built into the defrost switch will also turn off the mirrors and rear window simultaneously.




The logic is sound, and the parts cost is not too outlandish. Worst case, there are generic heated grids for side mirrors for cheap you can purchase and do what the guy in the post above with a hair dryer separating the glass from the plastic frame mount. I don't think I will need to go this route though.


Keep everyone posted, this is a project I'm willing to tackle and report back to the forums! I wanted my manual tranny, and now im gonna have my heated side mirrors too!

 

Bass, nice! If you figure this out, you will be my hero. It sounds like a solid method.

Sacrificing the heated seats and mirrors was the real heartbreak of wanting the M/T. But if I could have my cake and Heat it too...

Right now I live in Florida, but the day will come where I am in a much colder climate and this mod will be most appreciated. Keep us posted!

 

It doesn't seem hard at all. course my Honda contact reminds me any damage can void warranties. I have the utmost confidence in my abilities for a job like this.


I forgot to mention too that I still need to confirm if the existing wiring harness & connectors to the side mirrors have empty connector spaces to accommodate the two extra wires for the heating element. If so great, if not its a non issue for me as purchasing a few crimp quick connects solves that problem.

 

I'm following this thread with a lot of interest. The only things I want on the EX-L are the heated mirrors and the leather-wrapped steering wheel/shifter. I can do without the leather wrapping, but after having heated mirrors in my current car, I don't want to do without them on my new car. So if there's a relatively easy, relatively inexpensive way to add heated mirrors to the EX, that would be great. Plus it would let me buy the MT if I end up liking it better than the CVT.

 

tmport,

Will do, I'll likely update sometime next week after the holiday. It will take a few days to order the mirror parts. The relay, spade connectors, and wire are all inexpensive and easy to get locally.

 

Got my heated side mirror assemblies in today. My Honda contact is going to email me some pictures before I pick them up, just to confirm the bracket behind the glass fits the actuator inside the mirror "ear" itself which it should.


Below is an exploded view of the door so I can properly remove the door skin to snake the new wires through the waterproof grommet between the door & body. I still need to get a photo hosting account for pictures of the progress. Will provide soon as I'm able.

 

Here are pictures of the mirrors for the EX-L. The mounts are confirmed the same for either the EX or EX-L. This project is VERY feasible. I'll start tackling this sometime this week. Each mirror is 7.8ohms. When connected in parallel thats about ~3.9 ohms...drawing roughly 4 amps from the circuit. Still need to check the manual for the proper rated fuse as the resistance will change as the grid heats up, and the voltage will vary depending on the load to the overall electrical system.

Can't wait!