put on the bike and hit the trail

 

Is that the Yakima round bar setup?

 

No. Thule square bars.

 

That can work. looking forward to the picture. I got about 5700 miles on mine. I'm tempted to do the catch can mod too but short of funds ATM. I dont drive too aggressive though so hoping my coking issue is minor to minimal.

 

Whole-heartedly agree! Just got a set on my Konig Backbones. Exact same size (rims are 16x7 4x100 40 offset). Fantastic tire with great feel and response. Price was about the same!

 

The worst view of the fit is straight on from the back. Do either of you have a photo with the 205/50s from the rear?

 

Installed OEM splash guards and replaced my Gorilla Lugs to Muteki SR48 open ended lugs w/ matching locks.

 

looks good!

But you should check the lugs once every so often to make sure threads are tighten properly, since these lugs are actually designed for extended studs.

 

Thanks for looking out! i'll definately check periodically

 

Personally, I don't get 48mm long lug nuts? Usually the last 10mm or so doesn't have any threads so thread engagement is only say 35mm. So even if you get ARP 3" long wheel studs you won't get full thread engagement.

Originally, extended studs and open lug nuts were to make it easier for tech inspection for racing organizations such as NHRA. They usually require 1.5 X the diameter of thread engagement. With open lugs and extended studs the racer wouldn't have to remove a lug nut for the inspector.

Anyway here's a picture of my other car with 35mm Cro-Mo lug nuts and ARP 2-1/2" length wheel studs. Full thread engagement.

 

Thank you for kindly schooling me. I did also wonder the cons with not using extended wheel studs. Will have to go with your recommendation to switch back for safety measure. Just need matching black locks. Initially I went after the Muteki SR48 lugs for that future proofing my build as well as a sleek looking theft deterent with matching locks.

 

The con of extended wheel studs is weight specifically adding un-sprung weight. After one or two times of re-torquing your lug nuts they should stay tight. If not there might be something else going on? Biggest thing I'd look at is the seat area of the wheels. While most have a 60 degree taper, some wheels fit a large taper head of the Muteki better and some prefer the smaller Gorilla Tuner spline lug nuts. You really need to have the wheel off the car laying horizontally and drop a lug nut in the seat and see how it fits. Try both on the wheel, and you'll see what I'm talking about. The smaller lug nut might look like the wheel can pull over it because it drops deep into the seat and the Muteki might rock back and forth easily if the face is too big.

 

i will certainly do this and share some results (pics included). I appreciate all the insight Rob H!

 

Here's an example I'm talking about.

Here's a set of Kosei wheels which have a large seat area


Gorilla open end tuner lugs



Notice how deep the lug drops into the seat? You can see part of the 60 degree taper around the lug nut. These wheels should have larger seat lug nuts for proper fitment.




Here's a large seat lug nut compared to the Gorilla. Both are for a 12mm stud




Much better fit for the wheel

 

Actually, are those are TR's or Tire Rack's house brand wheels on your car? If so, you need the smaller Gorilla lug nut.

 

Yes as state on the mod list, TRM C1's purchased off of TireRack. And they did come with the small gorilla nuts. I am planning on putting them back on since I've been scrutinized by a number of folks for switching to the extended lugs with out extended studs and for safety sake.

 

it doesn't matter how long the lug nut is. It's all about thread engagement and how the lug nuts sit in the seating surface. Generally you want 1.5 times the diameter of the wheel stud or in our instance 18mm. Any time going to aftermarket wheels, that should be verified. Those who tell you it's unsafe just because they're extended and you don't have extended studs are just talking out of the somewhere other than their mouth.

 

I bought the attached new OBD2 OBDII Heads-up display on EBAY for $25.00 from a California Seller and installed it on my 2015 FIT.

My preferred placement on windshield.


FIT OBD port with unit connected in. Under plastic to the Right of the Steering Wheel.


Pushed Unit Flat Wire under gasket to left of Dash.


Flat wire comes straight out from front of windshield. If you remove unit--unplug and you can push wire out of sight under the dash plastic if you want.


Wired it under the pilot window cover (pry it up with a flat screwdriver and snap it back into place) then under the left front white pillar and last under dash plastic to front of windshield.


Unit Box Front


Unit Box Rear


Works great--projects the speed on the windshield.

On 2015/2016/2017 FIT, our OBD2 port in just under the dash to the RIGHT of the steering wheel.

It's a 16 PIN open connector that generates the cars diagnostics including speed, temp, oil etc.

The unit comes with a Flat wire that plugs into the FIT port. I also purchased a 3 foot OBD extension for $5.00 because I wanted some more play in case I needed to adjust it.

I wired it from the OBD port over the thick wire harness and through the metal steering brace and up under the gasket to the left of the dash, under the left pilot window vent cover, around the front of windshield tucking the flat wire under the plastic until I wanted to bring it straight out to the unit.

If you are more crafty--you can probably just snake it from the OBD port on the right of the steering wheel direct under the dash and bring it through an opening at the windshield.

The unit turns on when you start up and turns off when you shut the power to the car.

The unit has an on-off switch if you just want to leave it off.

If you don't want it on the windshield--easy to unplug and put away.

I rolled up a piece of strapping tape and put it on the back to place the unit where I wanted it to project. You don't need anything on the windshield--it projects right onto the glass. You can move it around until you find the right height/place you want it to project. The unit comes with a piece you stick on the windshield to make it clearer--but I have not used that. It also comes with a sticky mat--I also have not used that. Just keeping it simple for now.

I wish Heads-Up was standard all cars--it reduces driver detraction--keeps eyes on the road with the constantly fluctuating speed limits. Less eye stress.

Can't comment on reliability as I only had it for 1+ month but its been sitting in the hot sun/car and still works.

I tried to take a photo of it projecting, just could not get a good shot, but it projects very well. I set mind to project right in line of sight toward bottom of the windshield.

 

When I clicked on Reply, I got this blank entry. There is no Reply available after the original post about the installation of a Heads Up Display.

Anyway, I see that HUD becoming a popular option or even standard equipment in the near future. One problem I see is the availability of only one OBD II port for adding one now. I have a transmitter for my Garmin GPS plugged in there now. It sends all the data to the GPS, and I can select about half a dozen items - speed, engine temp, intake air temp, etc - to display at any one time.

I also have an app for my cell phone I forget what it does) that requires the OBD port. I tried using a splitter cable, but I discovered that you cannot use the OBD port like that. You can use one device or the other. Maybe cars will have multiple OBD ports in the future.

 

I did not realize that an OBD splitter would not work--I was going to get one so that the techs don't have to disconnect the Heads-up for diagnosis.

Sound like your Garmin can act like a Heads up and display the speed if you place it in the right location on the dash.