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Major Engine Failure at 1 year, 10,000 miles

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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 04:26 AM
  #61  
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Update

Hey every one, it's been a while. After letting the dealership know about my concerns with the car sounding worse they didn't do any thing for me. The issue had gotten worse progressively. It has been relatively worry free besides needing starter replacement since then.

When I took the car for starter replacement covered under warranty my service advisor even asked what my car was sounding like that for. I said I dunno you tell me it's been like this since the same dealership repaired it at 10k miles. Nothing comes of this. Fast forward a few months.


End of this month my warranty is expiring. I decide to get the VTC actuator replaced with updated part while it's still covered under warranty and I figure they'd let me know if something's wrong with it. I was coming up on 6 months for an oil change so I decide to pick the oil and filter up from the dealership and also schedule the VTC actuator replacement at the same time.

I go home, do a oil change and drop the car off overnight. Next day not even 2 hours after they open I get a text my car is ready. Okay, too quick it seemed. I get there speak to my service advisor and the car is not ready, it hasn't been worked on. They deny my warranty claiming the car was bone dry on oil and metal shavings/grey matter in my oil pan. I ask how thats so when not even 24 hours earlier I did a oil change with parts bought from the same place. Surely the oil doesn't disappear. There's no oils leaks in my driveway and I put exactly 3.5 quarts like my owner's manual says.

My service advisor immediately contradicts me stating the car takes 4.8 quarts. Again I ask where the oil disappeared and just get crickets. My service advisor is sort of hush hush and I can tell something is off. He talks to another service advisor close by who also couldn't give me an answer as to where my oil disappeared.

After me repeating the question and sitting thru some silence I get to talk to some guy/manager in a office in the back. He can't give me any answers and says my oil wasnted changed for 17k miles. BS this car has seen more oil changes than it needs. That's the approximate mileage the dealership last did a oil change on my car after being repaired. Instead of asking how I care for the car they were accusing me of neglecting my baby. They refuse to help me and tell me to contact Honda America.

I do so and Honda says to go to the next Honda dealership, let's say dealership B. I do so, they didn't hear any thing wrong at first and replace my VTC actuator. On the test drive they hear knocking at the bottom of my block and decide to tear it down to see if it's covered under warranty.

Dealership B finds that when the original dealership repaired my car at 10k they dropped something to the bottom of my oil pan LEFT it and this blocked oil from entering the motor, ultimately destroying it. Completely due to their negligience my car needs a new motor.

So currently the new engine is on order and is being covered by Honda. Easily I could have been left with payments on this car and need to pay thousands for a new motor and labor.

The original dealership that fucked my car up left a bad taste in my mouth after that interaction. Pointing fingers at the customer with out even inquiring about the maintenance on the car? That's no way any business should treat a customer.

So basically my problems with my car are a unique case and you shouldn't second guess your Fits reliability because of this thread. I'm out of town but I'm DEFINITELY going to follow up with the original dealership that tried screwing their customer that bought 2 new cars from them at the same time. Never again. Should I name and shame the dealership ?
 
Old Mar 24, 2018 | 07:01 AM
  #62  
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Wow that's awful. Glad the 2nd dealership found what happened and is treating you right. Definitely name the bad dealer, make a Yelp review and scream it from the top of your lungs.
 
Old Mar 24, 2018 | 08:26 AM
  #63  
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GL with the repairs and get another car from another dealer as soon as its out of the shop.
 
Old Mar 24, 2018 | 09:46 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by SMH327
Hey every one, it's been a while. After letting the dealership know about my concerns with the car sounding worse they didn't do any thing for me. The issue had gotten worse progressively. It has been relatively worry free besides needing starter replacement since then.

When I took the car for starter replacement covered under warranty my service advisor even asked what my car was sounding like that for. I said I dunno you tell me it's been like this since the same dealership repaired it at 10k miles. Nothing comes of this. Fast forward a few months.


End of this month my warranty is expiring. I decide to get the VTC actuator replaced with updated part while it's still covered under warranty and I figure they'd let me know if something's wrong with it. I was coming up on 6 months for an oil change so I decide to pick the oil and filter up from the dealership and also schedule the VTC actuator replacement at the same time.

I go home, do a oil change and drop the car off overnight. Next day not even 2 hours after they open I get a text my car is ready. Okay, too quick it seemed. I get there speak to my service advisor and the car is not ready, it hasn't been worked on. They deny my warranty claiming the car was bone dry on oil and metal shavings/grey matter in my oil pan. I ask how thats so when not even 24 hours earlier I did a oil change with parts bought from the same place. Surely the oil doesn't disappear. There's no oils leaks in my driveway and I put exactly 3.5 quarts like my owner's manual says.

My service advisor immediately contradicts me stating the car takes 4.8 quarts. Again I ask where the oil disappeared and just get crickets. My service advisor is sort of hush hush and I can tell something is off. He talks to another service advisor close by who also couldn't give me an answer as to where my oil disappeared.

After me repeating the question and sitting thru some silence I get to talk to some guy/manager in a office in the back. He can't give me any answers and says my oil wasnted changed for 17k miles. BS this car has seen more oil changes than it needs. That's the approximate mileage the dealership last did a oil change on my car after being repaired. Instead of asking how I care for the car they were accusing me of neglecting my baby. They refuse to help me and tell me to contact Honda America.

I do so and Honda says to go to the next Honda dealership, let's say dealership B. I do so, they didn't hear any thing wrong at first and replace my VTC actuator. On the test drive they hear knocking at the bottom of my block and decide to tear it down to see if it's covered under warranty.

Dealership B finds that when the original dealership repaired my car at 10k they dropped something to the bottom of my oil pan LEFT it and this blocked oil from entering the motor, ultimately destroying it. Completely due to their negligience my car needs a new motor.

So currently the new engine is on order and is being covered by Honda. Easily I could have been left with payments on this car and need to pay thousands for a new motor and labor.

The original dealership that fucked my car up left a bad taste in my mouth after that interaction. Pointing fingers at the customer with out even inquiring about the maintenance on the car? That's no way any business should treat a customer.

So basically my problems with my car are a unique case and you shouldn't second guess your Fits reliability because of this thread. I'm out of town but I'm DEFINITELY going to follow up with the original dealership that tried screwing their customer that bought 2 new cars from them at the same time. Never again. Should I name and shame the dealership ?



Yes, You are telling your story and NOT defaming or being libelous in anyway. What are the chances if the first dealership found the stuff in the pan would they of taken the hit.....not likely.

.
 
Old Mar 24, 2018 | 02:37 PM
  #65  
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Uh, if I read the thread correctly, the OP said the car was running rough AFTER the repairs were made, not upon receipt when new.

IMNSHO, the top tier gasoline matter is hype. I get gas at either Krogers (gas points from 30 to 60 cents per gallon off) or Mapco Express. Even with a 10.6 callon tank, there can be good savings.

Direct injection seems to depend on driving style. Injector additives MIGHT help or maybe not. Honda seems to build better systems than others like they build better CVTs.
 
Old Mar 24, 2018 | 02:55 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by KentFinn
Uh, if I read the thread correctly, the OP said the car was running rough AFTER the repairs were made, not upon receipt when new.

IMNSHO, the top tier gasoline matter is hype. I get gas at either Krogers (gas points from 30 to 60 cents per gallon off) or Mapco Express. Even with a 10.6 callon tank, there can be good savings.

Direct injection seems to depend on driving style. Injector additives MIGHT help or maybe not. Honda seems to build better systems than others like they build better CVTs.

That's right it was running completely normal and quiet like a new Fit off the lot. Then I got check engine light at 10k miles and my problems started after the repairs. This time around I won't be receiving the car if it's much louder than a new Fit on the lot.


The extremely unprofessional dealership is Hendrick Honda in Woodbridge VA. They act like the repair costs come out of their pocket rather than Honda or the customer.

Landmark Honda in Springfield has been a pleasure to work with not only with the current repairs but when I've used them in the passed they always go above and beyond.
 
Old Mar 24, 2018 | 03:44 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by SMH327
That's right it was running completely normal and quiet like a new Fit off the lot. Then I got check engine light at 10k miles and my problems started after the repairs. This time around I won't be receiving the car if it's much louder than a new Fit on the lot.


The extremely unprofessional dealership is Hendrick Honda in Woodbridge VA. They act like the repair costs come out of their pocket rather than Honda or the customer.

Landmark Honda in Springfield has been a pleasure to work with not only with the current repairs but when I've used them in the passed they always go above and beyond.
Thanks for that. I used to live in Woodbridge and may be moving back to the area next year. Good to know where to stay away from. I almost bought for from there actually.
 
Old Mar 24, 2018 | 11:12 PM
  #68  
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At around 40,000miles, all my warning lights came on. The dealer diagnosed the problem as as improperly finishes block. Where the head sits. Honda replaced the short block under the drivetrain warranty. I’ve got almost 60,000 on the car now and no problems. I redline the engine occasionally with no problems.
Nedpoins
2015 EX w/CVT
Progress rear sway bar
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EBC slotted front rotors w/ ceramic pads
Auto dimming mirror w/compass and Homelink
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Akrapovic carbon fiber exhaust tip
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Leather shift knob
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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 11:19 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by kenchan
GL with the repairs and get another car from another dealer as soon as its out of the shop.
My plan was to run the car into the ground. Any reason for that ? Resale value later? Future reliability issues?
 
Old Mar 24, 2018 | 11:24 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Nedpoins
At around 40,000miles, all my warning lights came on. The dealer diagnosed the problem as as improperly finishes block. Where the head sits. Honda replaced the short block under the drivetrain warranty. I’ve got almost 60,000 on the car now and no problems. I redline the engine occasionally with no problems.
Nedpoins
2015 EX w/CVT
Progress rear sway bar
Tanabe front torsion bar
AEM intake
Performance Stage 1 chip
EBC slotted front rotors w/ ceramic pads
Auto dimming mirror w/compass and Homelink
Tint all around
Akrapovic carbon fiber exhaust tip
ProClip glovebox mount for iPhone 7Plus
Leather shift knob
LED interior lighting
Any noticeable difference with the Chip? How's the suspension mods? Is the rear sway bar and front torsion bar worth it?
 
Old Mar 25, 2018 | 04:52 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by SMH327
My plan was to run the car into the ground. Any reason for that ? Resale value later? Future reliability issues?
yah, carfax will show that you had major repairs done to the car. but if you're already committed to driving it to the ground, this wont matter.

reliability.. imaging this is just the start of multiple problems you dont have knowledge of yet. some cars are doomed from the beginning.
 
Old Mar 26, 2018 | 03:17 PM
  #72  
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While tearing my engine down they went ahead and checked on my clutch. They said it's pretty worn down and it'd be easy to replace now. I'm only at 30k miles so seems pretty early.

Since the car's had engine issues it's also been misfiring(?) Taking off in first gear at lower speeds, the car would shake/judder back and forth. What I did to compensate is give it more gas and the issue was nearly gone. My question is if my engine issues could have led to my clutch wearing out faster? If that's the case that's definitely something I don't want coming outta pocket and I'd like to make a argument for myself if there is any.

​​​​

Any one with knowledge on that or if any one has replaced the gk5 clutch how hard is it? It's a pain to even find the parts online I've had no luck.
 
Old Mar 26, 2018 | 07:29 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by 2Rismo2
Thanks for that. I used to live in Woodbridge and may be moving back to the area next year. Good to know where to stay away from. I almost bought for from there actually.
Ditto on that. Sheehy Honda in Mt. Vernon was also very good IMO. They did a great job performing all my overdue recall items when I bought the '07 from the first owner. They also bid on my business when I put out feelers for a valve adjustment. Although their bid was high, they took the lowest written quote from the other local Honda service writers and matched it.
 
Old Mar 27, 2018 | 04:06 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by SMH327
Bought my '15 6MT EX March of last year. Just hit 10,000 miles. The following morning I turn my car on and almost every warning light is on, steering, engine, tire, etc. Go to AutoZone to run the codes and in the meantime the car seemed to run fine. Codes came back P0304 P0685 ECM and Cylinder 4 misfire. Pretty much worst case scenario.

I take it to the dealer and after a couple hours of diagnosis they don't tell me the specific issue, say they need to order some parts and come back in a few days. When I return I ask specifically what is being done to my vehicle. The advisor finally stops tip toeing around the issue and says I need a new cylinder head. My baby is on day 2 of repair now and I call back for an update. Advisor says there was excessive carbon build up in the valves so they need to clean that and they also have a head gasket on order they will replace. Also says to run premium gas once a month to get additives in my engine. (?)

I'd say I drive my car a bit harder than the average consumer, redlining it a few times a week however it is my baby I always make sure it has a full tank, fresh oil, and the car is warmed up before I beat on it. I made sure to break in the engine properly for the first thousand miles. Only mechanical mod is lowering springs.

I'm extremely disappointed as the biggest selling point for me is Hondas reputation as a reliable brand. For my new car to fail at 10,000 miles is something I don't wish on any Fit owner nor have I found another case like mine for the GK. What actions should I take to make sure this doesn't happen in another 10,000 miles?

Any input is appreciated.
That's terrible. I've heard the cars made in Mexico have reliability problems. I guess it takes a few years to ramp up quality. That's human.
 
Old Mar 27, 2018 | 07:55 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by SMH327
While tearing my engine down they went ahead and checked on my clutch. They said it's pretty worn down and it'd be easy to replace now. I'm only at 30k miles so seems pretty early.

Since the car's had engine issues it's also been misfiring(?) Taking off in first gear at lower speeds, the car would shake/judder back and forth. What I did to compensate is give it more gas and the issue was nearly gone. My question is if my engine issues could have led to my clutch wearing out faster? If that's the case that's definitely something I don't want coming outta pocket and I'd like to make a argument for myself if there is any.

​​​​

Any one with knowledge on that or if any one has replaced the gk5 clutch how hard is it? It's a pain to even find the parts online I've had no luck.
I would like to know what you mean by saying "give more gas".
My car seems to have the same problem as yours when in first gear.
But mine had its check engine light flashing and had problem with 2 ignition coils. After changing 3 coils and 4 spark plugs , the car's engine is louder when on first gear and seems to hesitate when passing onto second gear. Looks also to take a longer time to get into second gear.
When the car was normal, a slight press on the accelerator to start moving the car gave a big acceleration but it's no longer like this after changing the coils and spark plugs.
 

Last edited by Sue88; Mar 27, 2018 at 08:01 AM.
Old Mar 27, 2018 | 03:19 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by SMH327
Any one with knowledge on that or if any one has replaced the gk5 clutch how hard is it? It's a pain to even find the parts online I've had no luck.
I was preparing for a clutch job on my fit, but I traded in already for a cvt. But I did all the research:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...lutch+kit,1993
LUK 08061 RepSet® (09 to 16 fit)

The following clutches are for 09 to 13 fits, but they should fit on the GK no problems.
M-PACT 08061 7-1/2" X 7/8" X 20T
EXEDY HCK1010
BRUTE POWER/PERFECTION CLUTCH 92843 {#MU724251}
AMS AUTOMOTIVE 08050 OE PLUS

In terms of labour, everything seems fairly easy to get to.

Luk repset is the only one that actually used to be rated for 09-13 fit and then they extended the range to include the GK. The part number is the same; that's why I assume all other 09-13 clutches are forwards compatible. Exedy 1010 would have been my choice.

P.S. I had 80k miles on my GK and the clutch still pulled strong; it felt a little worn out but still pulling redlines no problems.
 

Last edited by CommanderSlug; Mar 27, 2018 at 03:23 PM.
Old Mar 27, 2018 | 04:50 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Sue88
I would like to know what you mean by saying "give more gas".
My car seems to have the same problem as yours when in first gear.
But mine had its check engine light flashing and had problem with 2 ignition coils. After changing 3 coils and 4 spark plugs , the car's engine is louder when on first gear and seems to hesitate when passing onto second gear. Looks also to take a longer time to get into second gear.
When the car was normal, a slight press on the accelerator to start moving the car gave a big acceleration but it's no longer like this after changing the coils and spark plugs.

I would be trying to take off at a pretty slow speed with steady pressure on the gas pedal. Get going a few miles per hour maybe 5-10 and and car would jerk back and forth pretty violently. If I keep the same pressure on the gas peddle then the car would stumble bad.

Imagine you're not driving for efficiency and just trying to get to the next stop light/ keep with the flow of traffic. You'd let out the clutch quicker and be more generous with the gas. In this situation I wouldn't have any problems at all and it would drive smoothly.

So, when I was driving at a slower pace and experienced the first sign of this bucking back and forth I'd press the gas down at least so my car isn't jerking me violently. I mostly experienced this on a cold start and if I was driving at a more leisurely pace.

Thanks to the gentlemen with the link with the clutch kit. I always intended on learning to change the clutch myself cause im always gonna be driving manual transmission I just didn't expect to be doing that at 30k miles. That's a huge savings in the parts and I always want to avoid the 150/hr dealer labor.
 
Old Mar 29, 2018 | 01:29 PM
  #78  
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Kinda scary I just put down my deposited on a sport 6MT. Warranty won't cover this? Wow that's crazy. If it won't cover I know there are a place you might able to get some built K20A..... just saying....
 
Old Mar 29, 2018 | 02:28 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by RichardRen0404
Kinda scary I just put down my deposited on a sport 6MT. Warranty won't cover this? Wow that's crazy. If it won't cover I know there are a place you might able to get some built K20A..... just saying....
Did you read the whole thread? He says the 2nd dealership is covering under warranty after the 1st dealership screwed up the repair.
 
Old Mar 30, 2018 | 04:30 AM
  #80  
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Update

Originally Posted by kenchan
yah, carfax will show that you had major repairs done to the car. but if you're already committed to driving it to the ground, this wont matter.

reliability.. imaging this is just the start of multiple problems you dont have knowledge of yet. some cars are doomed from the beginning.


​​​​​​Dealership is trying to blame driving style for the clutch wear. Now that my car doesn't have the original engine like you're saying I'm guessing the VIN won't match on the block either will definitely be seeking compensation for the depreciated value. This isn't my fault. I bought this car new. Dealing with the stress of a messed up car for the majority of the time I owned it and now it's gonna be worth less if I decide to sell it?

​​​​​

​​​​​They can have the shittiest customer service in the world, fine I won't give them business in the future and do my damn best to let others know. They try and brush off the depreciated value of my car and leave me high and dry I'll take serious disrespect to that and have no issue taking it to small claims.

Hendrick Honda Woodbridge Virginia has ignored my emails btw but I'm not gonna let them rip me off in that way.
 



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