Change oil viscosity? or additives.
#1
Change oil viscosity? or additives.
I was wondering if using a 5- 20 or 5 -30 during the summer would hurt anything on my 2015 Fit?
Also I had used slick 50 in cars in the past. Would this be ok to use in the Fit?
Also I had used slick 50 in cars in the past. Would this be ok to use in the Fit?
#2
Slick 50 and other engine oil additives - The Skeptic's Dictionary - Skepdic.com
#5
Also I had used slick 50 in cars in the past. Would this be ok to use in the Fit?
The oil cap says 0w20. Use it.
#6
I'll blow some minds here... I use 3 qts 0w20 and 1 qt 5w40 (Rotella left over from a VW that I used to own) with no issues what-so-ever. In fact, I just changed it out with 13,800 miles on it. I had a blackstone labs report ran at 9,000 miles and will have one done with the 13,800 miles here soon. I also use a non-standard slightly larger than OEM oil filter too (mobil-1, wix, or napa platinum) without any issues either.
#7
The diff between the 0w20 and 0w30 is almost um-measurable for a street car. But don't over do it, all these new cars with the "thin" oil spec use low tension oil rings, and if you get it too heavy you'll float the rings and lose the oil seal, which will result in a lot of oil consumption and fouling of the pistons ring groves eventually...
When a good motor builder builds an engine ,, its part of the conversation what oil you'll use because it affects several clearances during assembly. Ring clearances, mains and rods, oil pump type, sometimes the type of valve seals and crank seals. Even hte oil pressure reliefe valve to prevent over oiling the top end. I always follow the manual, but since I know I run the car a bit harder i typically go with the oil that's 1 step heavier in the chart if they list one.
When a good motor builder builds an engine ,, its part of the conversation what oil you'll use because it affects several clearances during assembly. Ring clearances, mains and rods, oil pump type, sometimes the type of valve seals and crank seals. Even hte oil pressure reliefe valve to prevent over oiling the top end. I always follow the manual, but since I know I run the car a bit harder i typically go with the oil that's 1 step heavier in the chart if they list one.
#8
I gotta ask, as a tech, what collateral damage have you seen?
During the summer, using a 5W-XX as opposed to a 0W-xx should NOT make a difference. And many oils lose viscosity as they get older, EG a 30 weight will thin down to a 20 weight anyway. So, one viscosity range higher should be OK.
As dwtaylorpdx said, just don't overdo it.
I find it telling that manufacturers recommend a higher viscosity in engines that are likely to be 'run hard'. (Thinking the Civic Si, or the Toyota Celica engine used in the Lotus Elise.)
During the summer, using a 5W-XX as opposed to a 0W-xx should NOT make a difference. And many oils lose viscosity as they get older, EG a 30 weight will thin down to a 20 weight anyway. So, one viscosity range higher should be OK.
As dwtaylorpdx said, just don't overdo it.
I find it telling that manufacturers recommend a higher viscosity in engines that are likely to be 'run hard'. (Thinking the Civic Si, or the Toyota Celica engine used in the Lotus Elise.)
#9
I have run 0-30 synthetic in my old Accord. I plan to run 0-30 in my Fit, when the time comes.
BTW, I am not accumulating many miles, due to being out of town regularly. There are just over 1000 miles on the odometer, and I can't foresee more than 1,750 miles when September - the one year anniversary of the purchase- rolls around. The oil life indicator is at 80% right now.
Keeping in mind the advice to change oil at the one year mark, should I change the oil regardless of what the maintenance minder says or what the mileage is?
BTW, I am not accumulating many miles, due to being out of town regularly. There are just over 1000 miles on the odometer, and I can't foresee more than 1,750 miles when September - the one year anniversary of the purchase- rolls around. The oil life indicator is at 80% right now.
Keeping in mind the advice to change oil at the one year mark, should I change the oil regardless of what the maintenance minder says or what the mileage is?
#10
This is because condensation builds up in the oil of little used, short trip cars. This stuff is corrosive. (I have seen a change in sheen on the metal dipsticks of cars that are stored over the winter.)
But as is always said, YMMV (your mileage may vary).
If you usually use your Fit 45 minutes each time (but leave it 'resting' for months on end), you will 'bake off' the condensation adequately. So, then you could get away with every other year, or longer.
If your usage is truly short-trip (only a few miles), then change the oil regardless of the MM.
NOTE: When you reset the MM you will reset all the other service alerts too. So, best to keep a logbook of what you do, so that you don't neglect other maintenance!
#11
5w-20 is no different than 0w-20 after warm-up, and might even be better in some instances since it will presumably have fewer VM additives and result in less varnish.
Really, all you people living in cold climates and not using oil preheaters are doing your engines a disservice. You should never start an engine if it is below 50F, and best to wait until it is 70F or better :P
Really, all you people living in cold climates and not using oil preheaters are doing your engines a disservice. You should never start an engine if it is below 50F, and best to wait until it is 70F or better :P
#12
The cost of heating the engine is too high, literally in some areas you'd buy the engine..
I used to get reimbursed to keep a F150 with a straight six plugged in,, call it 200
per month in power if you don't have it in a garage..
I used to get reimbursed to keep a F150 with a straight six plugged in,, call it 200
per month in power if you don't have it in a garage..
#13
^^^ Wow.
I had no idea that engine heaters were so expensive to operate.
When I was young & poor, I would put an incandescent 100W light bulb under the oil pan (outside) to help out the marginal batteries I had in my cars during the winter.
If it wasn't too windy it did the job...LOL
I had no idea that engine heaters were so expensive to operate.
When I was young & poor, I would put an incandescent 100W light bulb under the oil pan (outside) to help out the marginal batteries I had in my cars during the winter.
If it wasn't too windy it did the job...LOL
#14
The point is that 0 weight oil at freezing (32 degrees F) has the same viscosity as 5 weight oil at 50 degrees F.
Once oil reaches 100 degrees it is pretty much at it's operating rating and there is basically no difference between 0w20 and 5w20 at operating temperatures.
So putting a 5w in your car rather than 0w is not any different than living where it is 20 degrees cooler, as far as oil goes.
Once oil reaches 100 degrees it is pretty much at it's operating rating and there is basically no difference between 0w20 and 5w20 at operating temperatures.
So putting a 5w in your car rather than 0w is not any different than living where it is 20 degrees cooler, as far as oil goes.
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lmatthew9
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05-25-2011 11:10 AM