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GKdmnnit! So now that it’s warm I’ve got my summer shoes on and am driving with a bit more enthusiasm... but now all I can feel in my aggressive 1st, 2nd, and even sometimes 3rd shifts is the goddamn rev wobbling as the clutch slips. I did a mini launch the other day and smelled burnt clutch a bit. I didn’t realize I had this problem til now but omg it’s seriously a bummer! You’ve ruined me lol!
Elkaku did you ever disassemble your stock CMC to see if it’s easy to mod? Anyone in Ontario selling their stock CMC?? This might be my next ‘big’ mod...
GKdmnnit! So now that it’s warm I’ve got my summer shoes on and am driving with a bit more enthusiasm... but now all I can feel in my aggressive 1st, 2nd, and even sometimes 3rd shifts is the goddamn rev wobbling as the clutch slips. I did a mini launch the other day and smelled burnt clutch a bit. I didn’t realize I had this problem til now but omg it’s seriously a bummer! You’ve ruined me lol!
Elkaku did you ever disassemble your stock CMC to see if it’s easy to mod? Anyone in Ontario selling their stock CMC?? This might be my next ‘big’ mod...
As a matter of fact, I did tear it down to see why it was failing... And found out it was starting to leak fluid from one side of the diaphragm to the other and it was on the verge of starting to leak to the outside.....
I think it might be modifiable to some extent... By maybe welding shut the holes behind the diaphragm... But I really don't wanna play with something like that if the EM2 CMC costs between 40 and 60 bucks.... 🤷🏽♂️ and enlarging the holes to mount it won't change any structural integrity of the car so i went that route...
I'm getting one. Next mod on my list. @Azuki I will soon (couple months) have a Clutchmasters Stage 4 clutch and pressure plate come available with no racing and less than 300 miles on it. I will also have a balanced stock flywheel, but that's cost prohibitive to ship to Canadia . Don't know if you can limp your setup along for that much time, but if you want them hit me up. I'm going back to the lightweight flywheel and "other" Clutchmasters Stage 4 clutch and pressure plate, since they are matched, my second set is a GE modified for GK. Both clutches are very driveable. Maybe not so much when I get the EM2 CMC but I'll write that up if and when.
As a matter of fact, I did tear it down to see why it was failing... And found out it was starting to leak fluid from one side of the diaphragm to the other and it was on the verge of starting to leak to the outside.....
I think it might be modifiable to some extent... By maybe welding shut the holes behind the diaphragm... But I really don't wanna play with something like that if the EM2 CMC costs between 40 and 60 bucks.... 🤷🏽♂️ and enlarging the holes to mount it won't change any structural integrity of the car so i went that route...
that makes sense, yeah and the cost of the OEM CMC is almost 200 Canadian if I did seriously mess it up. This is food for thought, thanks for letting me know what you found elkaku!
Originally Posted by Z062FIT
I'm getting one. Next mod on my list. @Azuki I will soon (couple months) have a Clutchmasters Stage 4 clutch and pressure plate come available with no racing and less than 300 miles on it. I will also have a balanced stock flywheel, but that's cost prohibitive to ship to Canadia . Don't know if you can limp your setup along for that much time, but if you want them hit me up. I'm going back to the lightweight flywheel and "other" Clutchmasters Stage 4 clutch and pressure plate, since they are matched, my second set is a GE modified for GK. Both clutches are very driveable. Maybe not so much when I get the EM2 CMC but I'll write that up if and when.
with your full tune doing 200+ HP yeah that clutch is kind of a necessity. Yeah that why I was looking locally lol, even 15 bucks Canadian hurts for shipping lol, can’t imagine what a 15 lb package would cost cross border. I’m totally fine driving it, but it’s like one thing you know could be better but it isn’t. It’s chasing the tuner dragon lol... Please let us know what your thoughts are too, I’m hoping you’ll have a drive test with full tune + stock CMC, then full tune + EM2 CMC so you can compare the drifference. But even without comparison, I’m sure you’ll be able to tell immediately with the EM2 setup. I think the extra bite would be more annoying with cutch delay valve as it would make it more jerky and noticeable.
I think if I ever get to the point that I can afford to install an mFactory LSD, I will do clutch pack and flywheel, but until then I’m probably more than fine with stock. It’s just that delay valve RPM wobble that bothers me... for NOW anyways .
As for why, this is how I understand it. From the link above, inside is a metal plate which acts as a diaphragm and a series of O rings, which act kind of like a spring. In my picture I've greatly exaggerated this, in reality the volume and spring of the actual CMC delay is very small, which adds only a tiny delay. (PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG, THIS IS BASED ON HOW I UNDERSTOOD THE EXPLANATION OF THAT POST I LINKED)
figure 1.Garbage diagram of clutch delay
When you Clutch IN, the diaphram is expanded maximally, and the pressure go directly to the slave cylinder.
When you Clutch OUT
step 1: the fluid is pulled from the large delay valve chamber. (This is because of some hydraulic force vs. area stuff I don't know about, but fluid physics 101 stuff).
step 2: the diagrpham spring uncompresses as it pulls fluid from the slave cylinder. The delay between step 1 and step 2 is the delay action.
Also apparently on civics, the clutch slave cylinder also has a check valve which opens when Clutching IN, and closes when Cluching OUT, which works by restricting flow in one direction only. Again not 100% sure but correct me if I'm wrong. I think the main mushy feeling comes from the Clutch Master Cylinder delay system, which is why the EM2 mod which by passes it makes it feel much better. Modding the OEM involves drilling a hole straight through, and blocking the two side holes to basically convert it into the same as the EM2. (Theoretically, you just need to drill a large enough hole and bypass the diaphragm... so you don't really need to block off the side)
There's also people who have competely removed the check valve in the clutch slave cylinder, but I think doing both significantly increase drive line shock, and will tear your mounts up ESPECIALLY if you're using a billet torque mount like the Hasport.
My other question is, do you bleed the clutch system by releasing fluid/air bubbles on the slave side only? It looks like an air bubble could get stuck in the diaphragm of the CMC to me. Never bled clutch lines before so wondering how that works.
As for why, this is how I understand it. From the link above, inside is a metal plate which acts as a diaphragm and a series of O rings, which act kind of like a spring. In my picture I've greatly exaggerated this, in reality the volume and spring of the actual CMC delay is very small, which adds only a tiny delay. (PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG, THIS IS BASED ON HOW I UNDERSTOOD THE EXPLANATION OF THAT POST I LINKED)
figure 1.Garbage diagram of clutch delay
When you Clutch IN, the diaphram is expanded maximally, and the pressure go directly to the slave cylinder.
When you Clutch OUT
step 1: the fluid is pulled from the large delay valve chamber. (This is because of some hydraulic force vs. area stuff I don't know about, but fluid physics 101 stuff).
step 2: the diagrpham spring uncompresses as it pulls fluid from the slave cylinder. The delay between step 1 and step 2 is the delay action.
Also apparently on civics, the clutch slave cylinder also has a check valve which opens when Clutching IN, and closes when Cluching OUT, which works by restricting flow in one direction only. Again not 100% sure but correct me if I'm wrong. I think the main mushy feeling comes from the Clutch Master Cylinder delay system, which is why the EM2 mod which by passes it makes it feel much better. Modding the OEM involves drilling a hole straight through, and blocking the two side holes to basically convert it into the same as the EM2. (Theoretically, you just need to drill a large enough hole and bypass the diaphragm... so you don't really need to block off the side)
There's also people who have competely removed the check valve in the clutch slave cylinder, but I think doing both significantly increase drive line shock, and will tear your mounts up ESPECIALLY if you're using a billet torque mount like the Hasport.
My other question is, do you bleed the clutch system by releasing fluid/air bubbles on the slave side only? It looks like an air bubble could get stuck in the diaphragm of the CMC to me. Never bled clutch lines before so wondering how that works.
Interesting so you drill through and bypass that nonsense delay valve? Do you have to close the holes? Interesting. I want to replace this cause I hate the feel of the clutch. It feels smooth sometimes and then out of nowhere it feels there's a glitch and it's notchy.
I would go ebay... Those kind of parts is better to get them new....
I installed the Hasport solid mounts and i am impressed with it. Putting a civic em2 CMC and I can see this car ride way better than stock. Put in some coilovers or springs I can see this car being transformed. Do you have coils on your GK5?
I installed the Hasport solid mounts and i am impressed with it. Putting a civic em2 CMC and I can see this car ride way better than stock. Put in some coilovers or springs I can see this car being transformed. Do you have coils on your GK5?
No coils yet.. Still undecided on which to get... 🤷🏽♂️
They're pricey but they're very good! I went with the DS series and 10k front 8k rear spring rates. Wish I would have gone 12k 10k... next time
are those the D2 coilovers? im trying to decide between those and the bc ones because the included pillowball mounts. ive also had success with silvers in the past on other cars.
but ultimately trying to decide for the fit because its not a project but a daily lol
I installed the Hasport solid mounts and i am impressed with it. Putting a civic em2 CMC and I can see this car ride way better than stock. Put in some coilovers or springs I can see this car being transformed. Do you have coils on your GK5?
Bought the street/race version of the gecko suspension..... Still haven't had time to install them.... Went ahead and also bought the OEM hardware that has to be reused... So I only have to remove and replace old to new....
are those the D2 coilovers? im trying to decide between those and the bc ones because the included pillowball mounts. ive also had success with silvers in the past on other cars.
but ultimately trying to decide for the fit because its not a project but a daily lol
I have the BC Racing DS coilovers one up from the basic ones they sell. No pillow ball mounts. I have TCS caster camber plates...
Seamus is the owner of Tailored Chassis Solutions. Just call him and ask. When he has the parts ready he'll ship them to you. But truth be told, he's very busy and it took a long time to get them... and then you just have to not be afraid of cutting your shock towers off...
After 8 years of spirited driving, my clutch pedal began to actuate lower and lower in the clutch pedal stroke. Right before Kswapping my GK5, I needed to touch the floor mats to shift gears smoothly. I bleed my clutch line then, and several times post swap with no improvement. I figure that this may be the right time to do a CDV delete. I'm glad I found this thread. Any pointers besides the 1/2" hole to be drilled?
04-18-2021, 06:32 PM
. Don't know if you can limp your setup along for that much time, but if you want them hit me up. I'm going back to the lightweight flywheel and "other" Clutchmasters Stage 4 clutch and pressure plate, since they are matched, my second set is a GE modified for GK. Both clutches are very driveable. Maybe not so much when I get the EM2 CMC but I'll write that up if and when.
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