Check Engine Light - Continuing
#21
We pick up the car this morning and then run through the drive cycle as quickly as possible to get it inspected before the check Engine light comes on again. Below is a generic drive cycle, as presented by New York.
- The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of each other).
- The ignition key must not be left on prior to the cold start – otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
- As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and one-half minutes, with the air conditioning (A/C) and rear defrost turned on, if equipped.
- Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph under moderate, constant acceleration. Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
- Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking (or depressing the clutch for manual transmissions).
- Accelerate again back to 55 to 60 mph.
- Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.
#22
That's not really the test. That is just a suggestion of how to get the OBDII system in the ready status. Basically normal operation of the vehicle over a short time gets the car into ready status.
That same amount of driving will usually also trigger the CEL if there's a problem. Hence why they require the OBDII system to be in ready status.
Unless you clear codes or disconnect the battery, cars are all in the ready status driving around.
Silver, keep us updated. I don't see any way for this to end other than buying a new set of injectors. You could probably save yourself a lot of time and aggravation by just coughing up the dough and moving forward. People that have replaced the faulty injectors do not seem to have the problem come back.
That same amount of driving will usually also trigger the CEL if there's a problem. Hence why they require the OBDII system to be in ready status.
Unless you clear codes or disconnect the battery, cars are all in the ready status driving around.
Silver, keep us updated. I don't see any way for this to end other than buying a new set of injectors. You could probably save yourself a lot of time and aggravation by just coughing up the dough and moving forward. People that have replaced the faulty injectors do not seem to have the problem come back.
#23
Silver, keep us updated. I don't see any way for this to end other than buying a new set of injectors. You could probably save yourself a lot of time and aggravation by just coughing up the dough and moving forward. People that have replaced the faulty injectors do not seem to have the problem come back.
#24
Interesting. The dealer should have fixed this under warrenty i imagine, the third party may have been a mistake. Perhaps e-mail honda. .. then try a different honda dealer for investigation/diagnosis/fix.
#25
Interesting. The dealer should have fixed this under warrenty i imagine, the third party may have been a mistake. Perhaps e-mail honda. .. then try a different honda dealer for investigation/diagnosis/fix.
Both the dealer and the mechanic recommended an occasional tank of Stewart's premium non-ethanol gas, even though it isn't Top Tier..
#26
The Check Engine light came on a few minutes ago, so there will be no inspection tomorrow. So now what? Honda and a local guy worked on it, but it's still no good. If I bring it back to Honda, they'll want to replace the injectors for $1,700, and we know that won't solve the problem. In a few days, it will be going on its second month without an inspection. $385 for nothing so far.
#29
#30
Also, do you have a code scanner or are you going by what the dealer said?
I would want to pull the codes myself or swing by an auto parts store and have them pull the code. Make sure we aren't really dealing with multiple codes.
I would want to pull the codes myself or swing by an auto parts store and have them pull the code. Make sure we aren't really dealing with multiple codes.
#31
It's sucks but what are the alternatives? So far I haven't seen anyone fix it differently.
#32
Definitely. Both of our cars have had too many problems in too short a time, and they took way too long to repair. It took 18 months for the dealer to replace my radio, which was preventing the LaneWatch camera from working. We'll be looking at Subaru and Prius.
#33
Both. The dealer and I - and the private mechanic - found that P0171 code.
#34
Agreed. The threads where I've seen this problem, after the injectors were replaced, there were no further reports. Or maybe they haven't gone through the mileage where it's resurfaced.
It's sucks but what are the alternatives? So far I haven't seen anyone fix it differently.
It's sucks but what are the alternatives? So far I haven't seen anyone fix it differently.
#35
"Vacuum leak downstream" is what the mechanic fixed when he replaced that intake collar.
I'm going to both the dealer and the mechanic today and see what they say. It would be nice if the dealer could find the problem and then repair it. Guessing and making me pay is not an acceptable solution.
Last edited by SilverEX15; 09-27-2018 at 07:13 AM.
#36
If the problem isn't fuel related, the other less likely possibility is air flow related. Anyone clean the MAF sensor or consider the O2 sensor as the issue? "Lean" codes can happen if the air isn't properly measured going in or coming out.
#37
Good luck! I would get the codes pulled again to see if more have come up. Often you get one at first and then more later that will help pin point the problem.
If the problem isn't fuel related, the other less likely possibility is air flow related. Anyone clean the MAF sensor or consider the O2 sensor as the issue? "Lean" codes can happen if the air isn't properly measured going in or coming out.
If the problem isn't fuel related, the other less likely possibility is air flow related. Anyone clean the MAF sensor or consider the O2 sensor as the issue? "Lean" codes can happen if the air isn't properly measured going in or coming out.
#38
I went to the dealer just now. "It's probably the Mass Air Flow sensor." Probably! I said, "Suppose you replace it, and I still have the problem? I don't want to pay for that." "Oh, of course not, but we might find another problem, too."
Service managers must go through a lot of training to have just the right answers for their customers. "Probably" and "another problem, too" provide an easy way to replace whatever they want. If brake pads are worn, I can see that. I can't see anything wrong with an MAF sensor. I thought of talking to the independent mechanic, but he would have to inspect it again, order a part, and wait five days for it to arrive. I'll bring the car to the dealer tomorrow at 8:30 and let them start running up the bill.
Service managers must go through a lot of training to have just the right answers for their customers. "Probably" and "another problem, too" provide an easy way to replace whatever they want. If brake pads are worn, I can see that. I can't see anything wrong with an MAF sensor. I thought of talking to the independent mechanic, but he would have to inspect it again, order a part, and wait five days for it to arrive. I'll bring the car to the dealer tomorrow at 8:30 and let them start running up the bill.
#40
if you go prius .... you may want to spend a few mins looking up a few common issues the 3rd gen (and possibly 4th gen) ones come with:
-excessive oil consumption
-clogged egr components
-oil collecting in intake manifold
-eventual HG failure from misfire
(googling the term "prius engine shake" or "prius shaking" may produce the needed results)
Here is my personal experience with a HG failure, with a 3rd gen prius motor in the hood:
(SPOILER ALERT, HG FAILURE)
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ct-...l#post10122132
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ct-...l#post10122132
Here is a taste of what unscheduled maintenance those prius engines will need:
head gaskets and blown engines aside..... those cars sure as heck get great mpg!
-excessive oil consumption
-clogged egr components
-oil collecting in intake manifold
-eventual HG failure from misfire
(googling the term "prius engine shake" or "prius shaking" may produce the needed results)
Here is my personal experience with a HG failure, with a 3rd gen prius motor in the hood:
(SPOILER ALERT, HG FAILURE)
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ct-...l#post10122132
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ct-...l#post10122132
Here is a taste of what unscheduled maintenance those prius engines will need:
Inspect/clean as needed the throttle body, intake manifold, and EGR system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZwT8pvFBho
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=579M-4wPSUI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMzonmV2km4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_Hr2tAK7-c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZwT8pvFBho
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=579M-4wPSUI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMzonmV2km4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_Hr2tAK7-c
head gaskets and blown engines aside..... those cars sure as heck get great mpg!