Check Engine Light - Continuing
#1
Check Engine Light - Continuing
This is a continuing saga, starting last month. My son's Fit can't pass inspection because of the Check Engine light - P0171. The dealer cleaned the area around the flow sensor. Then he charged $300 to clean the fuel system. Then he wanted to replace the injectors for $1,700, even though they are covered by the emissions warranty. I brought it to an independent mechanic, and he found an air leak where that small collar attaches to the air cleaner box. He ordered the part, but after a week, it still hasn't arrived.
Yesterday, I went to the dealer and ordered that collar with overnight delivery ($45 total). When I got home, I ordered two more from Honda Parts Direct for $32 so I'll have spares if I need them. I got an email from them saying they have to get the parts from another warehouse, and it will take a few days. I hope the local dealer gets the part today, even though the mechanic doesn't work on weekends. We're going to get the car this morning so I don't have to drive him this weekend. The car runs fine, but he's been driving all month with an expired inspection sticker.
I can see him not being able to get the car repaired and having to trade it in for something new - something other than Honda. : )
Yesterday, I went to the dealer and ordered that collar with overnight delivery ($45 total). When I got home, I ordered two more from Honda Parts Direct for $32 so I'll have spares if I need them. I got an email from them saying they have to get the parts from another warehouse, and it will take a few days. I hope the local dealer gets the part today, even though the mechanic doesn't work on weekends. We're going to get the car this morning so I don't have to drive him this weekend. The car runs fine, but he's been driving all month with an expired inspection sticker.
I can see him not being able to get the car repaired and having to trade it in for something new - something other than Honda. : )
#3
that sucks silverEX. wat would ur son go for if non-honda? lately when i consider j-car, i gravitate towards subarus made in j-land. just a fun car filled with character unlike other j-cars which most feel like appliances.
GL with ur saga
GL with ur saga
#4
As I understand it the warranty should cover all of this work, but I could be wrong. My first new car was a 1986 Oldmobile Cutlass Supreme. I brought it to the dealer religiously, per the maintenance schedule, for all recommended service. When my car would not pass emissions inspection at an independent shop I brought it to the dealer. They charged me for some service related to a dirty carburetor, and claimed that I failed to perform some regular maintenance. The check engine light was coming on, later, and the MAP sensor was replaced. This did not resolve the issue, and the light would come on at times while climbing hills. It turned out that adjusting the idle speed fixed things, and I think the engine was simply lugging at time. Sorry this is happening to you.
#5
That occurred to me. I could have swapped the collar from my Fit, but he started the job, and if I interfere, and his fix doesn't work, he can say that I messed it up. I got the collar yesterday, so he can spend thirty seconds installing it tomorrow. Then we'll see if that solved the problem.
#6
As I understand it the warranty should cover all of this work, but I could be wrong. My first new car was a 1986 Oldmobile Cutlass Supreme. I brought it to the dealer religiously, per the maintenance schedule, for all recommended service. When my car would not pass emissions inspection at an independent shop I brought it to the dealer. They charged me for some service related to a dirty carburetor, and claimed that I failed to perform some regular maintenance. The check engine light was coming on, later, and the MAP sensor was replaced. This did not resolve the issue, and the light would come on at times while climbing hills. It turned out that adjusting the idle speed fixed things, and I think the engine was simply lugging at time. Sorry this is happening to you.
Intake Air System Throttle Body (including Throttle Position Sensor and Throttle Actuator) 3/36 7/70 15/150
Mass Airflow Sensor 3/36 3/50 15/150
Intake Manifold Assembly 3/36 7/70 15/150
Intake Manifold Tuning Actuator Assembly 3/36 3/50 15/150
Air Cleaner Housing 3/36 3/50 15/150
Air Cleaner Housing Cover 3/36 3/50 15/150
Air Cleaner Element *2 3/36 3/50 15/150
Intake Air Resonator 3/36 3/50 15/150
Intake Air Ducts 3/36 3/50 15/150
#7
My understanding is the inspector will not inspect the car if "check engine light" in illuminated, not because the inspection has failed. Now, to extinguish the light, disconnect the battery and reconnect it. Then, have your car inspected. It may pass. In TX, before a few years ago, the yearly inspection and the registration were not required to be completed concurrently. How dumb was that? Some took the chance that they will not get caught, so they delayed the inspection for a long period of time to save time and money. There was no fine, only a fix notice to have it inspected. However, TX finally got smart so they required that the inspection be done before the car can be registered.
Last edited by wasserball; 09-23-2018 at 10:28 AM.
#8
My understanding is the inspector will not inspect the car if "check engine light" in illuminated, not because the inspection has failed. Now, to extinguish the light, disconnect the battery and reconnect it. Then, have your car inspected. It may pass. In TX, before a few years ago, the yearly inspection and the registration were not required to be completed concurrently. How dumb was that? Some took the chance that they will not get caught, so they delayed the inspection for a long period of time to save time and money. There was no fine, only a fix notice to have it inspected. However, TX finally got smart so they required that the inspection be done before the car can be registered.
What really annoys me is the way the dealer dealt with the problem. First, they did a $300 fuel system cleaning. Then they said it would need $1,700 worth of fuel injectors. Those injectors are covered by a 15/150 warranty. I guess Lia Honda, Kingston, NY doesn't know about that.
#9
After turning off the light, you have to go through a driving schedule of at least three cold to hot drives covering about fifty miles. I had turned the Ck Eng light off before arriving at the inspection station last month. Since the car hadn't gone through that driving cycle, the computer wouldn't test it.
What really annoys me is the way the dealer dealt with the problem. First, they did a $300 fuel system cleaning. Then they said it would need $1,700 worth of fuel injectors. Those injectors are covered by a 15/150 warranty. I guess Lia Honda, Kingston, NY doesn't know about that.
What really annoys me is the way the dealer dealt with the problem. First, they did a $300 fuel system cleaning. Then they said it would need $1,700 worth of fuel injectors. Those injectors are covered by a 15/150 warranty. I guess Lia Honda, Kingston, NY doesn't know about that.
#10
System Covered/Part Name (45 States) (CA/CT/ (CA/CT/MA/ MA/ME/VT) ME/NY/VT) Fuel Injection System (Cont.) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 3/36 3/50 15/150 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 3/36 3/50 15/150 Thermostat 3/36 3/50 15/150 Accelerator Pedal Module 3/36 3/50 15/150 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensors 3/36 3/50 15/150 Fuel Pressure Regulator 3/36 3/50 15/150
#11
I hope this works out for you!
I'm not seeing NY listed as one of the states in the document I found online...
http://owners.honda.com/Documentum/W...t/APL50842.pdf
Maybe you found something different for a 2015 Fit?
I'm not seeing NY listed as one of the states in the document I found online...
http://owners.honda.com/Documentum/W...t/APL50842.pdf
Maybe you found something different for a 2015 Fit?
#12
I hope this works out for you!
I'm not seeing NY listed as one of the states in the document I found online...
http://owners.honda.com/Documentum/W...t/APL50842.pdf
Maybe you found something different for a 2015 Fit?
I'm not seeing NY listed as one of the states in the document I found online...
http://owners.honda.com/Documentum/W...t/APL50842.pdf
Maybe you found something different for a 2015 Fit?
http://owners.honda.com/Documentum/W...t/apl27540.pdf
#13
Man, I'm rooting for you!
However, the Fit isn't a PZEV vehicle as far as I know. Honda Site shows they are either ULEV or SULEV depending on model and I don't see it listed here...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catego...sions_vehicles
The link I posted to the warranty is the link for a 2015 Fit. Where did you get the other link?
However, the Fit isn't a PZEV vehicle as far as I know. Honda Site shows they are either ULEV or SULEV depending on model and I don't see it listed here...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catego...sions_vehicles
The link I posted to the warranty is the link for a 2015 Fit. Where did you get the other link?
#14
this is rough. hope it all works out for ya
I came to this honda with the mentality of "I'll never buy another toyota ever again" .... I guess no car maker is the be all and end all.
if you ever consider a prius ... please read my thread (or google PRIUS ENGINE SHAKES) and get a feel for how toyota is handling this well known head gasket issue .... spoiler alert ... they are = "sweeping it under the rug" .... aka.... not doing crap about it:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ct-...l#post10122132
I came to this honda with the mentality of "I'll never buy another toyota ever again" .... I guess no car maker is the be all and end all.
if you ever consider a prius ... please read my thread (or google PRIUS ENGINE SHAKES) and get a feel for how toyota is handling this well known head gasket issue .... spoiler alert ... they are = "sweeping it under the rug" .... aka.... not doing crap about it:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ct-...l#post10122132
#15
Man, I'm rooting for you!
However, the Fit isn't a PZEV vehicle as far as I know. Honda Site shows they are either ULEV or SULEV depending on model and I don't see it listed here...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catego...sions_vehicles
The link I posted to the warranty is the link for a 2015 Fit. Where did you get the other link?
However, the Fit isn't a PZEV vehicle as far as I know. Honda Site shows they are either ULEV or SULEV depending on model and I don't see it listed here...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catego...sions_vehicles
The link I posted to the warranty is the link for a 2015 Fit. Where did you get the other link?
#16
Yes, but the Fit isn't a PZEV vehicle which bumps you down to the 3/36 column. Only the Civic Hybrid and Insight qualify for PZEV status.
PZEV is the classification of the vehicle for emissions standards. The Fit is either a ULEV or a SULEV which is below PZEV.
PZEV is the classification of the vehicle for emissions standards. The Fit is either a ULEV or a SULEV which is below PZEV.
#17
You're right! I'm wrong! Somewhere online, I got the impression that the Fit was PZEV, while it's actually ULEV. Thanks for pointing that out
#19
We pick up the car this morning and then run through the drive cycle as quickly as possible to get it inspected before the check Engine light comes on again. Below is a generic drive cycle, as presented by New York.
- The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of each other).
- The ignition key must not be left on prior to the cold start – otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
- As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and one-half minutes, with the air conditioning (A/C) and rear defrost turned on, if equipped.
- Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph under moderate, constant acceleration. Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
- Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking (or depressing the clutch for manual transmissions).
- Accelerate again back to 55 to 60 mph.
- Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.
Last edited by SilverEX15; 09-25-2018 at 08:22 AM.
#20
We pick up the car this morning and then run through the drive cycle as quickly as possible to get it inspected before the check Engine light comes on again. Below is a generic drive cycle, as presented by New York.
- The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of each other).
- The ignition key must not be left on prior to the cold start – otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
- As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and one-half minutes, with the air conditioning (A/C) and rear defrost turned on, if equipped.
- Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph under moderate, constant acceleration. Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
- Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking (or depressing the clutch for manual transmissions).
- Accelerate again back to 55 to 60 mph.
- Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.