Yes, definitely!

 

I don't know? Maybe enough contamination could cause it to short circuit? They measure the air flow with fine wires or a ribbon that are sensitive.

Certainly wouldn't hurt to try cleaning the heck out of it though. I've never had an issue with that CRC cleaner. I blast all the sensors with that and use their throttle body cleaner on the throttle bodies. I just don't physically touch any of them. Just spray and let dry.

 

Definitely something to think about. K&N has impressive videos, but they want to sell the product.

I've used quite a few CRC products, and the next time I'm in town, I'll buy some of that cleaner. Have you ever tried CRC GDI Intake Valve Cleaner? You spray it right into the air intake so it gets to the intake valves. It seems kind of extreme, though.

 

I have a can of that on my shelf to try in my GDI turbo car. I've just been hesitant to try it for fear of contaminating the turbos. I need to do while it's still under warranty. In my mind, if I have enough carbon build up that can be dislodged by the cleaner and that build up causes turbo damage, then it's the vehicle manufacturer's fault for allowing the build up to occur. It's due for a spark plug change so I'll do it soon and let you know what happens.

 

Maybe there's nothing wrong. Monitor your mpg accurately. You should be getting over 40 mpg cruising at 62 mph. You know what they say. "If it's not broken, don't fix it".

 

Sounds like the car can't pass inspection with a check engine light illuminated so while it may function, it's only a matter of time before the cops get him.

Like others have said get some maf cleaner. I just recently cleaned mine and I'll probably add the routine to the next OCI.

Still would like to great what happens if you swap the maf.

 

Go to the CRC site and go down the page a bit. There's a list of detailed test results. I think both a VW and a turbo were cleaned.

 

Mine would actually be used in my Lincoln. 403 awhp My fear isn't whether it would work, but that it would work so well that it dumps the carbon into the turbos to be ingested. There have been reports of turbo failure with these chemical cleaners. AFAIK, BMW and VW's only factory authorized solution is walnut shell blasting the valves.

 

Better safe than sorry.

 

I filled the tank with Stewart's (non-Top Tier) 91 octane, $3.50/gal non-ethanol gas yesterday. Several mechanics have recommended doing that once a month for the health of the catalytic converter. It's one of those costly things you do without ever knowing if it was worthwhile.

 

Perhaps this is the one time having a small gas tank is an advantage ...

 

Yes. I used to have a pickup truck with a large tank. That was scary to fill.

 

I dont know what kind of gas you have in ur area but my wife and ive never put anything but cheap station 87 octane in the GD, GE's, and GK. no issue.

 

The manual recommends 87 octane, and that's what we've always used. However, since learning we should have been using Top Tier gas, we'll make sure we look for that. I fill up at Citgo 99% of the time, and that's TT. I'm going to use the non-ethanol once a month - just because.

 

I installed the new MAF sensor this morning. The whole process, after I opened the hood, took one minute. The dealer was going to charge $413 for that.

 

i always fill at those cheap stations you call second tier for the GD, GE, GK? its fine. ive never put anything more than 87 octane in my Fits. my turbo cars, different story. i only use top tier gas, 93 octane and use stabilizers in the winter time in my hobby cars as gas can sit longer than a few months in the tank.

 

I use cheap premium gas for my 911 turbo and all sporty cars. The second tier gas stations have enough detergent to do its job. Anything more is just advertisement that you are paying for. Go ahead if you feel necessary. The Fit? If it is 87 octane, it's good enough, Walmart, Krogers whatever is available that is where I stop for gas. Never had any problem with plugged injectors or sticky valves, and I've been driving for over 55 years.

 

I'll take all the snake-oil i can to prevent another engine from chewing itself to death.

 

SilverEX15, all still good? MAF sensor solving the problem still?

 

After installing the $76 MAF from AutoZone, the light came back on two days later. A mechanic told me that can happen with a non-Honda MAF. I ordered one from Honda yesterday ($276). However, the Check Engine light has gone off, so I'm going to take a chance and get it inspected.