3rd Generation GK Specific DIY: Repair & Maintenance Sub-Forum Threads discussing repairs and maintenance you can do yourself on the 3rd generation Honda Fit (GK)

Oil change on the GK

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  #21  
Old 10-10-2014, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by yuffers
I want to begin changing my own oil and this will be the first (car) and time I will attempt to do so.

Are there any video tutorials or instructions for how to do it on a 2015 Fit. (Apologies in advance if this is something I should already know but gotta start somewhere i guess)

Also what type of oil (amount), filter, anything else i would need?

Thank you to all.
I looked two places on the Internet and both said 3.5 quarts with filter for a 2015 Honda Fit. 3.3 without filter. My 2009 and 2011 Fits both take 3.8 so I hope the 3.5 number for is correct. You will check the level at the end of this and if it is low, add some more when you are done.

Most oil these days is sold in 5 quart bottles or 1 quart bottles. If you set the 5 quart bottle down on a flat surface and look at the side of the bottle, you will be able to see how much is in it. Pour enough oil into to show 1.5 quarts remaining out of the 5 qt. bottle. I do not have a 2015 owners manual here but in previous years Honda was recommending a filter change on every second oil change. You need to verify that this is still true. I always change the filter but it is not really necessary.

What do you need to change the oil?

1. Drain bucket / pan. Walmart has them.
2. Oil filter wrench. They are cheap and also from Walmart.
3. A empty one gallon bottle of any kind to put the old oil in. Something like a milk jug or distilled water bottle will do.
4. A funnel from Walmart to assist when putting old oil in the one gallon container.
5. Another funnel or screw on oil bottle adapter ($.50 at Walmart) to attach to the new bottle of oil to pour the new oil into the engine.
6. A box end wrench to fit the drain plug. I forget the size.
7. At least 4 quarts of new oil. (You are going to use 3.5 to 4)
8. A new filter. Walmart has Purolator brand ones. Forget the Fram ones. They are junk. I use Wix brand but they are harder to find. I buy my filters by the case. A new Purolator one is around $3.50 from Walmart.

I have trouble getting underneath the Honda Fit to get to the drain plug and filter. My daughter has no problem at all accessing these on the ground. If you need additional ground clearance, drive the car up on some scrap 2x4 blocks. An extra 2" or 4 " clearance helps me a lot.

A warm, not hot, engine will drain oil faster. I pull the drain plug first. When it is finished dripping, I reinstall the plug and tighten it fairly tight with one hand while laying on the ground. The spec is 30 foot pounds which is less than 1/2 of what you would tighten a wheel to.

Next I remove the filter and let it drain. When it stops dripping, screw on a new filter. Be sure to put some drained oil on the rubber filter gasket before installing the filter. This will make filter removal easier the next time. The filter should go on hand tight. Usually that is on until the gasket just touches and then 1/4 to 1/2 turn more.

Almost done. Pour 3.5 quarts into the engine and start it. Make sure the oil pressure light goes out when the engine is started running. (I do not think a 2015 Fit has an oil pressure gage.) Then with it still running take a quick look underneath the engine for any leaks on the ground from the oil filter or oil drain plug area.

Final step. Turn the engine off and let it sit for 5 minutes to allow all of the oil to drain back into the pol pan. Pull the oil dipstick and check to see that the engine is full. If it is not, then add an appropriate amount of oil until the stick reads full.

You are done. It probably took me longer to type up this posting than you are going to take changing the oil.

You notice that I did not make recommendation on what brand of oil to use. Most of the oil brand selection is marketing hype. So my suggestion is to to use whatever brand you find available that is 0w20. I, like others here, have my favorite brands but any oil that meets Honda's 0W20 recommendations will do.

We have 7 on the road vehicles around here plus a couple of tractors and an airplane. Some have over 200,000 miles and one is over 250,000 miles. None use oil and have had oil changes all of their life by the manufacturer's recommendations. Usually these recommendations are to use the maintenance minder, or 6000 miles if no Maintenance Minder, or one year.

The 250,000 mile vehicle went to Prudhoe Bay (Deadhorse), Alaska and back last year and may go again next year.

Good Luck.
 
  #22  
Old 10-10-2014, 04:38 PM
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Always Fram hate all over the internet, and i've been guilty of that too, but wanted to say i've been using Fram Ultra for the last two OCIs I've had, since they're available at Walmart and I don't feel like going to OReilly's separately to get a Wix anymore.

The Fram Ultra is actually a really nice filter with good construction. You can feel it when you pick it up from the weight. Here's a good thread on it with a cutout.

Cut Open Fram Ultra XG7317 | Oil Filters | Bob Is The Oil Guy

Mine have never had a paint problem like some people say, they actually look pretty lol. I won't use the standard Fram orange filters for a 15k mile OCI but I am not hesitating to use the Ultra. I'll probably just use this filter from now on.
 
  #23  
Old 10-11-2014, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by m_x
.......Purolators are good filters?.......Honda OEM filter is best.....check out the link above......
Personally, I swear by them. Purolators have been cut open and compared to others (including the OEM Honda filters). They're just better. Google the makers, history and comparisons of the Purolator brand. These guys just make a solid product.

What blows me away is its affordability. Truly classified as "quality at a bargain price".

Now if only someone can pictorialize a step-by-step procedure for the GK oil change on this thread, it can become a sticky.

I'd do it but mine isn't due for thousands of miles yet. That could be months down the road.

BTW, appreciate the kind support.
 
  #24  
Old 10-12-2014, 06:56 AM
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Honda oil filters aren't what they used to be since they switched to Honeywell/Fram:



The older -A01 filters are still available from some sources, but I suspect there's a limited supply.
 
  #25  
Old 10-16-2014, 11:58 AM
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Is the GK oil filter the same as the GD, GE? I just bought a 6 pack of the 15400-PLM-A01 filters. Probably should have asked this before I ordered them...

I'm thinking all Fits probably use the same filters, but if you know different let me know!
 
  #26  
Old 10-17-2014, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by m_x
.....So the Purolators are good filters? I was reading this thread and it seemed like the Purolators did a really great job catching solids in the oil.


P.S. Everyone wondering should check out the link above. The guy did some pretty extensive testing of a lot of different filters.....
The guy put in a great amount of effort. I like seeing the build quality more than anything. My experience from auto store management taught me build quality being more of an issue than filtering ability (when we are talking about reasonable brands).

Only complaint I have with his test is the contaminants used are both smaller than what the filters are designed to stop. His contaminants would have been fantastic for fuel filter testing.

Still great info and thank you greatly for sharing.
 

Last edited by CyclingFit; 10-17-2014 at 03:07 PM. Reason: spelling
  #27  
Old 11-01-2014, 08:42 AM
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Oil change on the GK

this morning i did the first oil change on my GK. as oil changes go, this one was fairly simple. after letting it completely drain and replacing the filter, it took a total of 3.5 quarts on the button to the top fill mark.

on the lift


oil filter and plug location, during draining process


new filter in the wrapper


old and new filters were identical (same size/amount of flow holes) but there was one number that was different. must be a manufacturer date code or bath run.


i did have one gripe though. the plastic shield under the drivetrain has 8 screws (6 metal, 2 plastic) in it. Really? you spend more time undoing the screws then doing the oil change. you need to brace the back of the screw with your free hand otherwise you can strip the screwhead. this will not be a durable design and the screws/capture nuts will get worn as the years pass. i will have to have spares on hand because they will eventually break/rust/freeze. why not use some quick release type fasteners?
 

Last edited by rodney; 11-01-2014 at 08:45 AM. Reason: fixed pics
  #28  
Old 11-01-2014, 09:16 AM
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Wow! You're an early bird on Saturday. Thanks for posting these!
 
  #29  
Old 11-01-2014, 11:26 AM
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The A42902 number is indeed the date/batch code.

es
 
  #30  
Old 11-01-2014, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Fitmo
Wow! You're an early bird on Saturday.
yeah, i am an early riser. my old boss lets me use his shop, so i get there before he opens and knock out my tasks.
 
  #31  
Old 11-01-2014, 05:39 PM
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How many miles did your car have? What was the oil life % indicator saying? Did you use Honda oil (synthetic blend)? What is the procedure for resetting the m/m?

Taking that plastic shield off from under the drivetrain, is much easier while the car is on the lift. I suspect it will be a pain for those of us who don't have access, unless you don't mind us coming up to your neck of the woods and using your old bosses shop...
 
  #32  
Old 11-01-2014, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by rodney
i did have one gripe though. the plastic shield under the drivetrain has 8 screws (6 metal, 2 plastic) in it. Really? you spend more time undoing the screws then doing the oil change. you need to brace the back of the screw with your free hand otherwise you can strip the screwhead. this will not be a durable design and the screws/capture nuts will get worn as the years pass. i will have to have spares on hand because they will eventually break/rust/freeze. why not use some quick release type fasteners?
Yeah, I'm not happy with that either. None of my other vehicles, American, Japanese, or German, require removal of shrouding to can get at the filter and the idea of using 8 dissimilar non-captured fasteners is just silly. If they need a shroud, it should come off with 2 or 3 Dzus fasteners that don't need tools to open.

I wonder how many of these shrouds will end up on a garage shelf or by the roadside after they fall off?
 
  #33  
Old 11-01-2014, 06:02 PM
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Not to mention the possibility those "quick oil change place" guys will not remember to reinstall all the fasteners. I had a 1995 Volvo 850, that had a protective plastic shield underneath, that eventually started to sag after someone forgot to reinstall each of the screws needed. That was before I started to change my own oil (actually it was one of the reasons I started changing my own oil).
 
  #34  
Old 11-01-2014, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Vanguard
Did you use Honda oil (synthetic blend)? What is the procedure for resetting the m/m?
i used full synthetic kendall 0w/20. unless you buy oil from honda, you cannot get a semi synthetic anywhere else. i got the oil at cost, so the choice was simple.

Maintenance Minder reset:

Reset the engine oil life display if you have performed the maintenance service.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON.
2. Display the engine oil life by repeatedly
pressing the (select/reset) knob.
3. Press and hold the knob for ten seconds
or more. The engine oil life indicator and the
maintenance item codes blink.
4. Press the knob for five seconds or more. The displayed maintenance items
disappear, and the engine oil life display
returns to 100%.
 
  #35  
Old 11-01-2014, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rodney
i used full synthetic kendall 0w/20. unless you buy oil from honda, you cannot get a semi synthetic anywhere else. i got the oil at cost, so the choice was simple.

Maintenance Minder reset:

Reset the engine oil life display if you have performed the maintenance service.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON.
2. Display the engine oil life by repeatedly
pressing the (select/reset) knob.
3. Press and hold the knob for ten seconds
or more. The engine oil life indicator and the
maintenance item codes blink.
4. Press the knob for five seconds or more. The displayed maintenance items
disappear, and the engine oil life display
returns to 100%.
Semi Synthetic? You mean Synthetic Blend? If so, Valvoline has one for sure (dad works for them). He also thinks Penzoil has one.
 
  #36  
Old 11-02-2014, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Justin Lane
Semi Synthetic? You mean Synthetic Blend? If so, Valvoline has one for sure (dad works for them). He also thinks Penzoil has one.
show me. couldn't find it anywhere retail or wholesale except for a honda dealer.

 

Last edited by rodney; 11-02-2014 at 06:06 AM.
  #37  
Old 11-02-2014, 06:48 AM
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Valvoline/Durablend synthetic engine oil SAE 10W-30 1 qt. 296 at AutoZone.com There is one of Valvoline's, they have a few different options, check out autozone's website for more.
 
  #38  
Old 11-02-2014, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Justin Lane
Valvoline/Durablend synthetic engine oil SAE 10W-30 1 qt. 296 at AutoZone.com There is one of Valvoline's, they have a few different options, check out autozone's website for more.
here is a pic link of a 1 gallon jug of milk:


neither one of them is synthetic blend 0w/20.
 
  #39  
Old 11-02-2014, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rodney
here is a pic link of a 1 gallon jug of milk:


neither one of them is synthetic blend 0w/20.


Here you go if you want a 0W-20 Syntehtic blend: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Quaker-Sta...-1-qt/36142650
 

Last edited by Justin Lane; 11-02-2014 at 11:04 AM.
  #40  
Old 11-02-2014, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Justin Lane
Here you go if you want a 0W-20 Syntehtic blend: Quaker State 0w20 Dexos Synthetic Blend Motor Oil, 1 qt - Walmart.com
ah, i must have missed that one when i was looking a few months back. good find.

both autozone and advanced auto have full synthetic options that are kinda pricey. since i have 2 vehicles that take 0w20, i purchased 3 cases of kendall 3 months ago. that should get me through a year or so.
 


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