Oil change on the GK
I always position my head in an area where there is enough room if the vehicle falls, even with jackstands... Crushed chest... survivable. Crushed head... organ donor.
Anyone use a Fumoto valve with this thing, or know the thread pitch/size?
Anyone use a Fumoto valve with this thing, or know the thread pitch/size?
Always change my own, so I can see how this plastic shroud with many tiny screws will quickly become a PITA. Any idea what the downside would be of just leaving the shroud off? Less than 1mog? I may be willing to settle for 40 combined rather than the 40.5 I'm averaging now just to reduce the tediousness of an oil change. I'm at 40% oil life right now.
Btw, for the 5 qt. Mobil 1 at Walmart, I usually reach for the "extended performance" label, as its only a few bucks more and supposedly contains more of the slick additive (proprietary moly?). It's supposedly good for 15k, but I still change at 5k with Mobile 1 extended performance filter (hopefully they're producing those for the GK at this time).
Btw, for the 5 qt. Mobil 1 at Walmart, I usually reach for the "extended performance" label, as its only a few bucks more and supposedly contains more of the slick additive (proprietary moly?). It's supposedly good for 15k, but I still change at 5k with Mobile 1 extended performance filter (hopefully they're producing those for the GK at this time).
Anyone use these Rhino Ramps with a 2015 Fit?
Just scary part of getting the car onto the ramp but I never overshoot it so it's fine.
I am going to get jack stands as somebody suggested as a safety measure.
Also those ramps will hold up alot of weight. It held up my old 2009 CRV just fine.
Always change my own, so I can see how this plastic shroud with many tiny screws will quickly become a PITA. Any idea what the downside would be of just leaving the shroud off? Less than 1mog? I may be willing to settle for 40 combined rather than the 40.5 I'm averaging now just to reduce the tediousness of an oil change. I'm at 40% oil life right now.
Btw, for the 5 qt. Mobil 1 at Walmart, I usually reach for the "extended performance" label, as its only a few bucks more and supposedly contains more of the slick additive (proprietary moly?). It's supposedly good for 15k, but I still change at 5k with Mobile 1 extended performance filter (hopefully they're producing those for the GK at this time).
Btw, for the 5 qt. Mobil 1 at Walmart, I usually reach for the "extended performance" label, as its only a few bucks more and supposedly contains more of the slick additive (proprietary moly?). It's supposedly good for 15k, but I still change at 5k with Mobile 1 extended performance filter (hopefully they're producing those for the GK at this time).
Been doing that ever since Honda added it with 2006 Honda Civic.
There is a story floating around that Honda will ONLY change the oil filter every OTHER oil change. That part I didn't like so I always change it with every oil change.
Last edited by DArkk; Nov 5, 2014 at 10:38 PM.
I don't recommend leaving the shroud off the car even tho it's PITA. Because the oil filter is road facing so any debris might puncture it so there goes your engine. Oil change at 5K miles? Honestly, it's recommended at 10K-12K miles now with these cars. Follow the maintenance minder and it will save you money in the long run.
Been doing that ever since Honda added it with 2006 Honda Civic.
There is a story floating around that Honda will ONLY change the oil filter every OTHER oil change. That part I didn't like so I always change it with every oil change.
Been doing that ever since Honda added it with 2006 Honda Civic.
There is a story floating around that Honda will ONLY change the oil filter every OTHER oil change. That part I didn't like so I always change it with every oil change.
Thanks for the valuable info... maintenance minder and shroud off and back on..got it, ugh
I'm glad the shroud was in place.
Not sure how this shroud is mounted but on my old hybrid it was slide and then held by screws.
So yeah maybe a simple latch might work. Would have to be high quality stainless steel so it wouldn't rust as much like normal steel.
So yeah maybe a simple latch might work. Would have to be high quality stainless steel so it wouldn't rust as much like normal steel.
or you can do it this way:
3.25 qts + .25 qt = 3.5 qts
1 qt + 1 qt + 1 qt + .5 qt= 3.5 qts
.5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt = 3.5 qts
5 qts, drain 1.5 qts = 3.5 qts...

the main thing here is the car has a different engine then previous gen fits, which required less oil.
First you say this:
Then you say this:
See the confusion???
Then you say this:
NO. 3 qts + .5 qts = 3.5 qts.
or you can do it this way:
3.25 qts + .25 qt = 3.5 qts
1 qt + 1 qt + 1 qt + .5 qt= 3.5 qts
.5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt = 3.5 qts
5 qts, drain 1.5 qts = 3.5 qts...

the main thing here is the car has a different engine then previous gen fits, which required less oil.
or you can do it this way:
3.25 qts + .25 qt = 3.5 qts
1 qt + 1 qt + 1 qt + .5 qt= 3.5 qts
.5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt + .5 qt = 3.5 qts
5 qts, drain 1.5 qts = 3.5 qts...

the main thing here is the car has a different engine then previous gen fits, which required less oil.

On the handful of cars I've done oil changes on I've never seen an oil filter installed on an angle like that. I suppose the new filter can be partially filled with new oil before putting it on. I liked that about our Forester, the filter was installed facing "up" so it could always be filled. Then it doesn't have to fill when starting the engine.
the angle of the filter does not matter. it pressurizes quickly and fills up in a few moments. having worked for a long time in the automotive industry, there are many oil filter locations/angles. horizontal and even upside down (which is the best for making large messes when doing an oil change...).
when to get first oil change?
I have had my 2015 LX CVT since late August, and have 4100 miles on it. The oil % display says 50%, but I've had friends recommend that I just get it changed at 5000 to play it safe.
How accurate is the oil life %? I'm planning on going to Valvoline when I do get it changed. Any recommendations on type of oil. Is synthetic the way to go?
How accurate is the oil life %? I'm planning on going to Valvoline when I do get it changed. Any recommendations on type of oil. Is synthetic the way to go?
Do it when the MM tells you to or at the year mark whichever is first. There is currently break in oil with extra stuff in there that helps with longevity of the engine (at least with the gd and ge, I'm assuming they would use it for the gk as well).
What type of oil is a different story, with plenty of agruments. My only advice is to checK the oil level after its changed and read your manual. Lazy mechanics that don't read the specs will over fill.
What type of oil is a different story, with plenty of agruments. My only advice is to checK the oil level after its changed and read your manual. Lazy mechanics that don't read the specs will over fill.
Oil technology has changed much in the last 2 decades. They last much longer so the 3 - 5k mandatory change is a thing of the past - as long as you don't drive on dirt roads, daily.
Am getting close to 2k and it shows 80%. Will wait for the meter to show 10% or less then make the change. The Mobil 1 and Purolator filter are awaiting!!!!



. The '11 + '13 Fit take 3.8 qts.. Thus 3+3/4 to the line . No ?



