I have heard from many sources that this is not true. I agree with you though, just wait till the MM tells you to. On my CR-Z it was at 10k miles.

 

I just passed 5k and states 40%...

 

5,774 miles and reading 60%.

es

 

That is correct. The engine brake-ins are already done at the factory so they use regular oil.

 

Just changed mine, it was at 15% with a little over 10,000 miles.

I used Mobile-1 0W20 and a Mobile-1 filter. If there is an issue with Honda service I know that
Mobile will get up in their face with you.

The oil change was easy, much much easier than with the 03 Civic. First time I used any
0W oil, wow is that stuff thin.

 

Yep... 0W-20 is the least resistance oil available which translate into better MPG. Mobil-1 oil is best stuff out there. Although I do use Honda Oil Filter 15400-PLM-A01. Be aware of the PLM-A02 which is made by FRAM rebadged by Honda.

 

Please cite your sources.

Thank you.

 

Google works well..

Break-in (mechanical run-in) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Scroll down to: "Modern versus older break-in regimens"

 

You're going to have to do better than a wiki snippit with 2/3 claims requiring citations

I can see both arguments, but Honda is pretty vocal about keeping the factory fill in. I tried to have them change mine early and they sent me packing. They did give me a free car wash for coming by though lol

I've seen so much on BITOG and all of the internet arguing both points, i'm just hoping someone knows a Honda engineer or something.

I changed mine at about 4k fwiw

 

Agreed. My dealer said same thing twice now on this Fit and my 2013 Civic. Even asked if the manufacture suggested this and got a yes. Dealers want your money so why would they advise not to change oil early ? Kind of makes sense.

Read this link and click on Oils and Fluids

Frequently Asked Questions | FAQ | Honda Owners Site

 

Just changed oil at 9100 miles and rotated tires. Mobil one synthetic 0w20, engine sound noticeably quieter. Awesomeness.

 

Sweet!! I am going to wait till the MM says 10% and then go ahead get the oil changed. I should hit 10K by then.

 

One sided comments so far. Not everyone believes in meter minder or the thin 0W20 oil.

I, for one, changed the factory oil at 2K and at 650K on the second car. I do not want the metal particles floating around in the oil. The metal is shed as parts sit in their places and roughness is smoothed out.

0w20 oil is too thin to protect the moving parts as well as 5w20. The film thickness of 0w20 is much thinner so the parts like connecting rod bearings will have more damaging metal to metal contact with water-thin 0w20.

The reasons US automanufacturers use it this thin oil here is to increase the average fleet's fuel consumption, to meet governmental requirements. (I am not going to help them with this goal at the expense of the extra level of protection to my engine.

I heard 0w20 is often NOT used in Europe due to the thickness (viscosity) being insufficient.

 

I wonder what they are using in Japan?

 

So what do you use 5w30? Thats what i've always used in my other hondas.

 

HONDA A42513 IS MADE BY HONEYWELL WHICH IS FRAM! Its OD is 2 11/16 X 3 3/8 long..media is OD 2 5/16 X ID 1 1/8 X 2 7/16 long with 49 pleats. which IMHO is too small except for very short interval oil changes. FRAM PH2849A ugh! OD 3 X 4 15/16 with a gasket 2 1/8 to 2 3/8 wide...media is OD 2 5/8 X 1 7/16 ID X 3 15/16 long and 40 pleats of thin media and cardboard ends; Large size, but I think, very poor filter!! costs 3.97 @ autozone...
WIX 51347 (NAPA 1347) is OD 3 X 4 3/4 w/same gasket as FRAM and PUROLATOR...
media is 2 3/4 OD X 1 3/8 ID X 3 5/8 long and 49 pleats much heavier media than FRAM
cost 6.60 at my NAPA
PUROLATOR L20073 is OD 3 X 4 3/4, same gasket, media is OD 2 3/4 X 1 5/8 ID X 3 13/16 long w/63 pleats of heavy media and largest total area of the three which fits da fit......At a cost of 4.29 at Advance. this is my choice..mechanic over 50 years. No dinosaur oil, only synthetic fluids when possible. Check out other filter comparisons on youtube....Questions welcome.......
P.S most premium new cars come from the factory with Mobil-1, including Corvette
I had a FREE oil change at my dealer; they use Mobile-1, 0-20 buy the quart and put on a A42513 Honda filter which IS a FRAM as stated above.....

 

5W20 and 0W20 have the same viscosity at operating temperature, the only difference is at startup, and you want the thinnest oil you can get at startup so it begins circulation as quickly as possible. That's where most wear happens, not while the motor is running.

No you should not use a 30 weight unless you're engine temps are so high you're seeing thermal breakdown, you'd need to know the operating range of the oil you're running. I could see this happening on track with a FI L15 but I don't see it being an issue on any stockish NA application.

If someone can show me that 20 weight oil is seeing thermal breakdown at regular operating temperatures and conditions, i'll change to 0W30 on my next oil change.

 

I was just having this conversation with a friend about using thicker oils. He was saying he always uses a thicker weight and I was saying I'm not sure it's accurate to equate viscosity with protection. I believe oils thick and thin alike are designed to be nearly solid when under pressure, and that the viscosity refers to the oils ability to flow into tight places. Therefore, by using a heavier oil, you wouldn't be adding "protection," but instead you are reducing the oils ability to flow into all of the places that need to be coated, which sounds like you may actually increase wear.

But I don't know for sure. Oil science seems like it can get REAL complicated...

 

I'm not an expert, and I don't know if my dealership is, but I was told by them that thinner oil is needed to get to all the tight tolerances.

 

I'd stick to what the manual says about types of oil. I know with older cars weight have alot to do with time of year and where you are at.