Hello,

I am planning on installing a amp and subwoofer to my oem hu. I am planning to take apart my radio and use a line out converter.
I have been searching this forum for a clear wiring diagram to the 2018 hu but I am still not positive if it is correct. I do not want to open apart my head unit without everything being clear to me. I have read some of the posts and it lead me to believe that the 2015-2017 has different color wires when compared to the 2018+?
Can someone please confirm?

Thanks!

 

Check out my audio thread dude. Got everything you need for the 2018+ on the last page. I'd say tap either the red and green on A17 and A18, or the white and black wires on A15 and A16. The rear speakers will have less db signal and you need all of it to run a subwoofer. Good call on the line out converter. Use posi-taps so you don't damage the OEM harness. Currently Metra does not make a harness for the 2018+. Be careful when tapping the wires.

Cheers

 

I just saw your audio thread. Thank you soooo much! And yes my posi-taps are arriving tomorrow on amazon. Can't wait to install my Polk Audio C300.2 Amp and a Polk Audio DXi Sub. By any chance do you think I can wire up line out converter ground and constant power to A1 and A3?

 

Not sure. An LOC is not very power hungry, but if it has constant power, its a parasitic draw on your battery. I'd wire it off the accessory socket since that only turns on with the ACC or car running.

What LOC are you using?

 

 

Okay, that has a remote turn on wire. its blue/white. That will prevent it from always being on.

 

Yup! that's why I am assuming that I can tap into the constant 12v.
On the side note, I always have a portable jumper with me.

 

No, not constant 12V, you want the LOC to turn on with the amplifer, and turn off with the amplifier so it doesnt draw any significant current with the engine off. Tap the remote power wire of the LOC (blue/white) to A23, the ACC lead. That turns on and off with the car. Its how I have my LOC wired. Trust me on this!

I'll be getting myself a portable jumper too, but I'll be using it for more than just jumping the car. I want the one with the inverter and power sockets on it. :-)

 

Hmm that's weird... according to the LOC wire diagram (provided with it) shows the remote wire (blue/white) connecting to the amp's remote input.

Maybe tapping the yellow wire from LOC to A23 instead of the blue/white?

 

Same effect. The remote on for the amp is the signal input to activate it. LOC should follow the same function A23 should be connected to the remote on terminal of amp and LOC.

 

Ah true. Great! I will wire them all together tomorrow and give you an update on how it went haha. Much appreciated with your help!

 

So finally finished up wiring up the Amp and Subwoofer this weekend. It was tedious getting behind the radio and wiring up the LOC but overall it was simple enough. Tapped into the front speakers and even installed some LEDS that would beat to the bass of the music!
Thanks again Bassguitarist! you were a great help!

 

Do you have any issue with your speakers losing signal after your installation? I've had nothing but issues with my install and would love to talk to someone who has done one more in depth.

Thanks!

 

Nope, to this day no problems at all. Make sure your connections are clean and snug. Sometimes they can get loose due to the vibration/movement of the car.

 

Do you have pictures?

Was any wiring replaced?

 

How can I help?