I just received some 4th gen Sirius Cree 6400 lumen LED fog lamps, size H11. About 10 minute install. I added a dab of shoe goo to the ballast and stuck them flat on the bumper bottom. Hopefully they'll be OK.

These are a bit pricy; I hope the service life is good. Much whiter and super bright! Way brighter than OE. I hope they're legal?



Photo doesn't show but holy crap WAY brighter. Passenger side, OE; Drivers side LED:

 

Where did you buy them? I got the same ones from sirius led. I did a flickering defective bulb that they replaced under warranty for free. Turns out it was a simple loose solder joint i fixed.

Also, i got the H4 size, not H11. The fogs were H8, also Sirius.

 

I got them from Sirius as well. No problems at this point. Test drove last night and they are bright for sure. I'm thinking about using these for headlights as well.

 

H11's work in place of H8's. Plug and play for the fogs w/ no mods.

So far. So good. I was a bit worried they would pull a higher wattage that the stock H8 halogens but it looks like real power is actually 32 watts each, just a bit lower than the halogen rating. I think they'll be ok.

I really hope these things last a good while because I really like them. I don't use the fogs all the time but I like them on dark roads where deer are a risk. These shine off to the side of the road a good amount.

These fog lamps work so well that I ordered some H4's for the headlights to match.

 

Be sure to check my pics. I got the same set you do. Except h4 and h8

 

hey jhn, how much wheel gap do u have now that your H&R springs have settled? my Tanabe coilovers are too stiff for me, was thinking about going a different route.

 

Well, today I pulled the rear shocks and shortened the bumps 20mm to see if it would soften the early part of the travel a bit. I am happy with the ride quality, but I really just wanted to know.



When I jump on the rear hitch, the suspension compresses about an 25mm or so more than it did before I cut them. It definitely handles wavy pavement better. I can't tell if it lowered it any though. I forgot to measure first.

As for settling, I don't think it did. H&R says they don't settle; they're blocked and pre-set. Here's how it looks at the moment. Sorry for the crappy quality but I just shot this pic minutes ago:



I really like the height its at. It's noticeably lower than stock; it really handles better; it's still practical enough for daily driving in my area.
Ride quality it a bit stiffer than stock, but it's still tolerable. I'm happy with it and I have no desire to swap out for adjustable coilovers.

 

As for the amount of gap, I'd say the front tires are in the wheel well to the scrub line and the rears are right at the fender line. Tomorrow I'll try to get a measurement to give you a more precise idea of where it's at

 

Ok, I measured today. I'm not sure how level the surface is; my car varied a few MM between left/right.

I measured from the ground, straight through the centerline of the wheel to where the tape measure meets the fender.

Front: 60 CM

Rear: 61.5 CM

For comparison, my stock GK measures:

Front: 64.5 CM

Rear: 65.5 CM

I hope this helps.

 

What wheels are those..

 

Vision 425 (pg 1)

 

Headlights arrived today. Install was not as easy. They are really bright; I think more so than the Silvanias that were in there. I hope I don't get pulled over?

I'll take it for a spin when it gets dark. 6400 lumen led fogs and headlights:

 

You should be fine. Dispersment pattern isnt that bad. Though it shouldnhave the projectors inside, the shield around the bulb inside helps keep the pattern less scattered

 

Good to know. How hot do the drivers get? I haven't been able to find any info on them so I suppose it's not that big of a deal. I'm not sure I like where I mounted them

 

Meh, the LED headlights are very bright; I don't think the light is as "useful" as the halogens that I had in previously.

I'm still not sure where I'm going to permanently mount the drivers.

Here's a sort of useless photo of how they look. At least the color matches. They don't seem as bright to oncoming traffic as I thought:

 

It's because of the inherent design of an LED headlight. Light only comes from the top and bottom of the assembly, whereas a halogen and HID's come from all 360 degrees which means more light output. With the use of a proper sized projector, the light pattern would be the same as a halogen. It would be brighter and hotter color temp then that of a halogen, but HID's would win out every time over the two.

I've found the high beams to be very bright, low beams are only a smidge brighter. I was happy with the performance being above the standard halogens. Saves on electrical load, and the hotter color temp is a bit easier on the eyes for me.

EDIT: The drivers get HOT! don't mount them to anything plastic. Mount them to the frame if you can so it heat sinks the heat away. This is normal operation too by the way. Even the LED assemblies get pretty hot, thus why the need for a fan. The core of the LED assembly is brass I think, and its a perfect heat sink. the threads for the fan are brass. Communicates the heat away that way.

 

Funny thing: when I hit the brights, the fog lights turn off. It actually brighter with the low beams/ fog lights. It renders the brights kinda useless.

I mounted the drivers against the firewall in the corners. There's not very many options. I'd like them to have better airflow around them. It is what it is:

 

Yes fogs shut off with high beams. Standard function. Fogs are meant to cast a wider light pattern. High beams only tends to light more in front of you and higher up from the road to look further ahead as the high beam led is on the bottom of the assembly. A projector assembly will negate this effect, but im not going to rip the headlight assemblies apart. Too much work and if i screw it up im out hundreds of dollars to replace.

 

thanks for all the info. your car looks lower in this pic vs the pics earlier in your thread, imo. i had H&R sport springs on my Audi and they definitely settled an additional 1/4" after a month of use. same with the H&R springs on my brother's G35.

cutting the bump stops wont lower your car, but will prevent you from bottoming out prematurely. the bumpstop is used to protect your shock from going beyond its operating stroke and blowing. it also acts as a spring of sorts, which would be 100% stiffness if you hit hit the bumpstop (its not damaging tho, so dont worry). also, you won't be doing any damage cutting your bumpstop, b/c it is actually recommended by most shock manufacturers to do.

can you get some clear daylight profile pics whenever u get a chance, please? my Tanabe coilovers shocks are too stiff for me. looking to probably copy your setup for something more docile. im just afraid i will be unhappy with the height since i like tucking tire all around

 

Yeah, cutting bump stops shouldn't lower it more but I was second guessing myself based on comments in another thread. It did soften the early part of the travel. It rides better for DD; it will make the understeer issue worse though.

The good thing about Koni shocks is there is no specified range of motion. No worries there. They work fine wherever the springs do. The jounce springs ( bump stops) are a supplemental spring, that is correct.

Many people think the rear springs sit a bit high but for my needs its fine. It helps with the bikes and weight jacks toward the front, which helps a/x.

If you want it leveled out a bit more you might look at the green Teins, although reports are the rates are stiffer than these. I would like to swap the rear springs for something with an adjustable perch so I could tune the rear height. Unfortunately I haven't found anyone who offers rear springs seperately.

Im really happy with the Konis though. They match these springs well.

I'll get some pics soon