Thank you! I've been following your build as well. I think the lip would look good in gray. I've seen it in silver, blue and red and it looks better to me in any color.


As for auto-X, be careful, it's addictive. :-) I think track days even more so. One of the nice things about the Fit is it is underpowered and fwd. this makes it pretty easy to drive. It's a good learning platform that makes it less likely you'll end up in a viral video blowing out a 300+hp car on cold tires. It's a painfully expensive rookie lesson that I want no part. Besides, there's something appealing about driving a slow car fast. Anyone can push a gas pedal to go 0-60 really fast if the car is capable; not anyone can turn in top pax at the local autocross. As the saying goes: drag racing is for fast cars; autocross is for fast drivers.




Something to consider: A/X in sport mode, but don't up shift. Let it auto shift at redline, but down shift in the braking zones or anywhere the revs need to come up. Sweet spot is 5000+. Im convinced the CVT is faster than the manual.


Let the haters hate.

 

Well, I followed Stembridge' lead today. I addressed my torsion beam alignment issue. My torsion beam was really out of whack, with a .44 degree toe-in on the left side and .24 right. I picked up two Moog K6660-2 (.5 degree). They're sequenced based on the amount of correction needed. I didn't get any pictures of the process; basically, I removed the four 14mm bolts holding the hubs, removed the 10mm bolt behind the hub holding the ABS sensor, and removed the hub completely. Using the template included with the shims, I clocked the shim to the desired placement, then marked 12:00 on the shim and hub. I used the hub as the actual template to remove excess shim material for a tailored fit.

I reassembled everything with the shims between the heat shield and beam ( not between the hub and heat shield).

Things look good visually. Off to the alignment shop. As you can see by my sheet, things were pretty misaligned. The goal is to have toe-in pretty much 0 and a slight bump in negative camber to -1.9. I'm hoping the car rotates a little better after all is said and done- better tire wear too. Fingers crossed I got it right. I believe I did.

 

This is one mod that looks a lot scarier than it turned out to be... Look forward to the realignment report.

es

 

It was still a major pain. I started with a red EZ Shim. After I took off one hub, I found it didn't fit. The shim was too big in diameter. I was hoping these would work because of unequal alignment of both sides. I moved on to the Moog K6660-1 (.25 degree), but I couldn't find any common ground for both sides. Once I had the set-up sheet included with the shim it became easier to identify what I needed. I finally found common ground for both sides with the K6660-2(.5 degree) shims, which worked out because I wanted to bump neg camber anyway.

Lucky my local auto parts store had these shims or I'd be dead in the water waiting for parts to arrive.

The Moog one piece shims are much more stable after the hubs are tightened down.


I think if I were to do it again I would remove the hubs like I did, but instead of snapping out the pieces for the bolts, I would use the hub as a template and carefully and slowly drill holes in the shims for a perfect fit. More support, less likely to distort and shift during installation.

 

I agree, and while i didn't think of this specifically, the thought did cross my mind that you remove a lot more of the shim than is needed following their instructions.

es

 

Yeah, the instructions are for the first gen Fit (GD) which needs pieces removed for a small 5th screw and ABS sensor. The four bolts for the hub are not in the same location either.

The set-up sheet included and the template itself had the Honda Fit assigned to two different template letters. Red flag for me. The only way to really get it right is remove the hub and make a template. Set-up sheet is only used for clocking the shim. I haven't found the torque specs yet. I'm at 52ft-lb but I do not think it is enough. I'm going to 61, which I found is what the GD hubs are torqued to, but that might not be enough either. I'm afraid too much will distort the plastic shim, which is why I didn't want to do this in the first place.

I have to get these torqued properly before alignment, so if anyone out there knows the torque specs for the GK hubs to the torsion beam, please post it.

 

I placed 3rd overall in ST pax last weekend. I'm having a lot of fun in this thing.

 

Wow! You have done a lot of nice work.

 

Congratulations!

es

 

Thanks guys.

 

I haven't updated in a while, but I haven't done anything new to it either. I've just been having fun with this thing. I'm pretty happy with how it handles.

I removed my back seats. For track days and everyday driving with 1 passenger or less, it saves almost 100lbs. It's noticeable in performance and gas mileage. 4 14mm bolts hold the seats; 3 14mm bolts attach the lap belts. It's about a 10 minute job once the routine is figured out. I put them back for passengers and autocross. My class requires them.

 

Wife and I went on a day trip through the North Carolina mountains and into Tennessee. We drove "The Snake", RT421. We logged about 500 miles. The little Fit did great.

This picture is in Deep Gap, NC on the way up to Grandfather Mountain.

 

Hey how much were your konis? Are they adjustable and what's the model number.
Thanks.

 

I think they were less than $300 for all four? I don't remember; that sounds right. They're for a '13 Fit GE. They've been great. Part numbers are back thread...

 

They're not adjustable.

 

I added an air/oil mist separator (catch can) today. It's nice and small, like the moisture separators for an air compressor:




It's an easy install. I bought it as a kit from Jeg's.

I hammered the bracket flat, mounted it through an existing hole in the washer solvent bracket, and connected the hoses. This is looking from the firewall forward, like you're sitting in the car:



I just disconnected the line from the manifold and connected it to the side of the separator that says "in". Thenfitted the included hose from the separator to the manifold, cut it to required length and done. That easy:



I then went out for a test drive. I ripped around a 15 mi loop and came back and checked it. It's hard to see, but Sure enough, there's already oil in it. It appears this works:

 

Got the Amazon link for this?

 

No. I didn't get it there

 

My bad. Where did you get it from?

 

Jegs. You might be able to find one for a compressor for less, but make sure all the parts can handle to vacuum/pressure and harsh chemicals of engine oil. This was simple and pain-free as a kit.

I am going to change the exit brass fitting to a 90 degree to straighten the bend in the hose. I'm concerned about it collapsing from suction.