The GE8 has a different F/R drop to attain the same results as the GK5, 1.3/1.8 for GE8 instead of 1.5/2.0 for GK5. The Tenabe DF210 TDF143 is for the GE8, increases the spring rate 10-15% to compensate for the decreased shock/strut travel so as not to wear out the stock shocks/struts abnormally. The advantage to choosing Tenabe over other brands is the engineering to the springs to give the drop that won't require extra parts to correct alignment and the proper spring rate to not wear out the stock shocks/struts. The manufacturing in Japan is far superior. The process manufacturing the coil springs is 100% cold process, no heating the springs to making them maleable in order to coil them into shape as well as the finishing to flatten the bottoms of the springs is a no heat effected process. Heating a material breaks down the material on an atomic level and in turn the spring wears out over time, not maintaining it's shape or worse, cracks. Also, in final testing of each coil spring is compressed 100% to assure it rebounds to the exact shape prior to compression. Also, Tenabe is the only company to ONLY use 100% high tensile strength steel in the entire composition of the spring, which will not break down in comparison to other manufacturers' materials. Tenabe has the highest tensile strength in the industry, hence the "210" in each spring type, which designates 2100n/m tensile strength.
http://www.tanabe-usa.com/df210.asp?id=1

 

You a salesman for Tanabe or something?

I've decided to go with Tanabe as well, their drops look just right. Now I'm just trying to find the right price/place to get them installed.

 

I am an outside salesman, but for the welding/industrial field, not automotive, but was a Honda sales consultant back in 2011. I treat every aspect of my decisions the same as I do in sales. I research everything and learn it inside out before I make my decision and it results in the best product to my knowledge and in turn for others. I never mislead anyone in sales as I would never want to mislead myself. Haha, in another post I did about Tenabe someone said it read like an add... I just can't get away with my sales approach to everything I do... Lol.

 

This is where I got my springs, best pricing I found, good experience with site, reputable, professional, this link is for your Fit GE8:
http://www.importtuned.com/10383-tanabe-df210-lowering-springs.html

 

Nothing wrong with that, I appreciate the input!

Thanks for the link, I was going to get them off Amazon for about the same price but the seller has been getting negative reviews as of late so I think I'll get them from your link instead.

 

Awesome! Definitely would go with the link I sent you, I was very impressed with them. Also, they give very good detail about each product they sell, the engineering and specs that I was discussing in my earlier posts. They actually know about what they sell, which is important.

 

Here's a GE8 on Tanabe DF210's and tire/wheel specs, absolutely perfect IMO!
"17x7 +40 on 205/40/17 and tanabe df210s. No rubbing whatsoever. -2.25 camber up front, stock in the rear"

 

Yeah, that really does look perfect. Thanks for the pic because I want to get those same sized rims and tires too. Actually, do you happen to know what rims those are?

 

Nevermind, I did a reverse image search and found the thread where the pictures were posted. They are the Motegi SP10 in Hyper Black.

 

Man, I've been trying to figure out what those wheels are, driving me a bit crazy. I'm keeping mine stock, but those look excellent! If I'd guess it may be Motegi, just if you zoom in close it appears to be that logo. You may get just get about the same look out of XXR 527 17x7s and save a boat load of money!

 

Nice! I can't believe I made out that logo from the pick, glad you confirmed exactly what they were. I took another pic of my car today, perfectly flat surface. The F/R gap is really identical, I'm just usually on some sort of incline and shifts the car's weight to the rear.

 

Man, that looks perfect! Looks lower in the other pics but just right on a level surface.

 

Yeah. And there's even some weight in the back from some boxes of literature I carry with me for sales.
The torsion beam rear suspension is the visual cause of the rear appearing lower cause the only way the rear wheels adjust for an uneven surface to keep the cabin level is by twisting the torsion beam, so either one wheel or the other tucks into the fender well on uneven surfaces. Annoying aesthetically.

 

I think this is the best pic I've been able to get to show the F/R wheel gap clearly.

 

I didn't like the look in the first pics so I declined to comment. This pic looks better for some reason. Nice!

Perhaps the dirty front wheel is what made all the difference.

 

In person it looks excellent. Hard to get good pics from my phone. Will keep sending so it will confirm that Tenabe DF210's are def the way to go!

 

Nope.

Stock shocks are position specific; they are designed to operate mostly at a higher stock ride height. The lower range they're operating with lowering springs will shorten their service life.

Also, if you lowered your car, your toe is out. You need an alignment pronto. Your front tires are going to wear out quickly.

 

I absolutely got an alignment after the springs were installed. I understand that you have to have an alignment after lowering springs. The spring rate has a large impact on shock/strut life, yes, I am sure the lifespan of the shocks/struts will decrease because of the shortened travel, but the spring rate is the major culprit that determines whether the shocks will blow or not. Trust me, I'll found out everything more than anyone on this site, guaranteed, I will give the most strenuous testing of anyone on here. I drive PA back roads 30miles each way for my commute into my territory, than 100-200 miles in my territory before my commute back Monday-Friday and about 200miles on the weekend, maybe more. I drive about 1000miles/week. I'm pretty sure no one else can claim that. I will test the springs, my shocks/struts life, and my tire wear directly to you if you'd be interested to know every step of the way. Thanks.

 

In addition to alignment, the subframe was adjusted to get everything to spec. And alignment is only the front end, no adjustment to the rear, just a torsion H-beam for the rear wheels, bolted/welded hubs. 1.5" drop is the max front end drop on the Fit before camber bolts are needed to retain spec.

 

You either get a front end alignment (2 wheels).
or a thrust alignment (4 wheels)

When making suspension changes like a drop a 4 wheel thrust alignment tis normally the right route.

A shock is a tube with a piston it, the bit that wears out normally is the valve stack which has little to do with exact life, length of stroke is not what wears a shock its the number of strokes per second @ a given maximum velocity, as well as the service life of the valve stack, you can buy $2000 a corner Penske's or Bilstein's and wear out the shock in a couple hours of track time. I replace the valve stacks on a open wheel road race car about twice a season or when the car loses stick. On a sprint car I've replaced shocks between 20 minute sessions. Work the shock harder and more heat is generated, the oil squeezing though the valving acts much like oil in a gearbox wearing out the lube.

YMMV and good luck on the project!