With a little over 6,000 miles on my Fit, it was warm enough, and enough snow had melted that I though I'd rotate the tires. I was surprised that both rear wheels were rusted onto the hubs, and I had to kick around the tires to loosen them. I had a serious problem like that a few years ago, and I had to bring it to a gas station to have the wheel removed. It took the guy a long time to get it off.

What I've been doing ever since then is putting some anti-seize goo where the wheel contacts the hub. Surprisingly, the front hubs looked beautiful - shiny silver. Apparently, they're made of different material.

 

I too had a similar issue. I forget what I used, I initially used simple WD-40, but some anti seize stuff or rust inhibitor product should do the trick.

 

Have had that issue decades ago on my first ever car, a '67 MG Midget 1275cc with OEM steel rims and ever since used MolyKote on all my wheels. Never a problem since.

 

rubber mallet. i did buy some anti seize for when i finally take off my snows. good thing i didn't yet. snow on the forecast friday....

 

Yeah, CT is forecast to get a little bit too. Not sure how much though. Dangit, and I just bought new snow tires but didn't think I was gonna use them this season, I may be proven wrong later this week!

 

So did you notice any unusual tire wear?

I know there were some that were complaining about the non-adjustability (alignability?) of the rear wheels which (in their opinion) would lead to problems.

Just wondering if all was well.

 

While you have the wheel off, remove the brake drum and put a thin film of anti-sieze on the mating surfaces. You'll thank yourself when it comes time to remove it the next time!

Don't get carried away, you don't want to grease your brakes!

 

Does this issue only apply to snowy/freezing areas??
Would applying anti-seize also be recommended if the Fit lives in a snow-free area??

 

does it rain?

 

It does rain. I'm thinking the answer is a yes, correct?

 

Seized (stuck) wheels are a common problem on many imports. The issue is caused by dissimilar metal corrosion. Many car manufactures have issued technical service bulletins that address this problem they mostly recommend the application of a type of wax or barrier film. There is a good product that does this very well.
Motor-cycle chain wax works like magic !




You don't have to buy this on-line. Nearly any motorcycle shop carries different brands of this stuff.


This type of "wax" has many uses. For battery terminals to prevent corrosion, door hinges, hood hinges...ect...ect.

 

Or just a thin coat of regular grease should do the trick.

 

Been greasing the mating surfaces of wheels/hubs since I've owned cars. Learned it from my father. I just use a light film of wheel bearing grease, but anything will work.

Another "trick" I've used to free a wheel stuck to the hub is this: loosen all lug nuts 1-2 turns, then lower the wheel back to the floor. The weight of the car will break the wheel free, probably before the car is firmly on the ground.

 

Some good tips in here; thanks for sharing.

 

I live in SoCal and always use it. Can anyone predict where their car will go in the next five years?

 

I had a '62 Midget - when they first came out. Later, I got a '69 Midget from a wrecking yard - good condition. Those were fun little cars. The '62 was 948 cc, but I bored it, put on larger carbs and valves, Isky cam, and exhaust headers. That became a fast little car. I sold that and got a Ford 427. Big difference.