The fluid was in just 2~3 weeks prior to the event. Rotors are stock at all 4 points, pads are ProjectMu HC+ (0-800*C) all around, lines are stainless ProjectMu and the fluid was SpeedMaster5.1.

 

Try crossdrilled rotors.

You might have been feeling the pads outgassing on the stock blank rotors.

 

but if you do get some cross drilled, don't get the cheapo ones. they just literally drill the rotor where as stoptech actually forge theirs with the holes and slots.

I researched as much as one could about rotors. its a toss up between brembo blanks and slotted dimpled rotors for the road course as far as i can tell.

 

Well I was looking at some Dixcel rotors. Good shite over on this side of the Pacific.

 

Brian @ Fastbrakes is a great guy. If you are staying with 15" wheels, his brakes should be able to satisfy you for a while... JC, have you weighted your Fit and corner balance it yet?

 

I have never had much problem with pedal feel but I do auto-x and short range track events. I am not super hard on brakes as far as an opportunity to cause excess heating issues.

 

I for some reason thought that OEM Honda master cylinders shouldn't use 5.1 fluid since its more of a 'race only' fluid just due to the nature of the fluid reacting with the gaskets inside the cylinder ...

But i got nothing to back this up :/

 

5.1 is compatible with both 3.0 and 4.0, it is 5.0 that is not compatible.

Bumping this because my dreams have been answered. I knew J's and Seido-Ya were working on a little something and it is being released in 2 days.

YES YES YES

Also on the brake front went with Dixcel slotted front and rear and a new set of ProjectMu HC+. Last event over at Tsukuba1000, brakes felt alright, but by the 6th 12min session that same feeling started to creep back. The track wasn't as demanding on the brakes like Suzuka Southern was and still running the same Honda DOT4 that I won back at Suzuka.

 

Why do I have a feeling they made this just for you?
Glad to see you got your solution.

 

Will be heading over to J's on the 19th and having the piece installed prior to the event on the 20th. Messaged Murakami-San last night on Facebook and he sent an invoice and asked if it was alright. SWEET!!! Hopefully this will eliminate once and for all the feeling I have been getting on circuit a few times.

 

I've done about 25 events on the Fit since new... and i've experienced a weird "no brakes" situation just twice. It's only happened on a larger road course setup, and it was not heat related as it was early on in the day (laps 2 or 3 out of 5 or more). I'm on Hawk HPS, so I am more than happy to blame the pads as i'm not really satisfied with them.

As for the most recent "where the f*** did my brakes go?" instance, it goes something like this:

Lap 2 on a 1:00 lap course. There's a short straight after a hard 90* turn, following the straight is a loooong right hander that i took WOT at roughly 75mph. There's a small chicane afterwards but it's so minimal that you barely lift and wiggle the car through. The part after the chicane is where the brakes just didn't happen. It was a hard decel from about 72 down to about 27-30mph for a slalom. I had about a good .5 seconds of nothing.

I'm itching to try the Ferodo 2500 and AP Racing H200 pads. I'm still on the same setup of Goodridge SS lines, ATE super blue fluid, HPS pads, and blank rotors.

Autocross i have no issues with braking whatsoever.

 

Haven't had brake trouble on my GD since I started running trackdays back in 2009. I regularly run DOT4 fluid as a precaution against brake fade, and I have Tanabe brake pads up front, but otherwise every other piece of hardware is stock.

That said, the closest I got to an...undesirable situation with the brakes was when my instructor beat on my car at Batangas Racing Circuit back in 2010. My laptime that day was a 2:20; he ran a 2:17 on the same car by using full-commitment threshold braking (unlike most of you, my GD has no ABS) for three straight hot laps. I was riding shotgun the whole time.

When he was done and driving back to the pits on a cool-down lap, he told me I might want to have the brake fluid bled out and replaced. Driving home that day, I noticed definite brake fade - it felt like I needed twice the pedal travel to get the brakes to bite.

That said, I'm not sure the master cylinder is the culprit. I think it's more of the rotors. The GD's 9" stock rotors are meant to fit a 14" or even 13" wheel (base-model GDs here ran 13" steelies), and as such they might not have enough surface area to dissipate all that pent-up heat from track abuse into the air.

Given the opportunity I would like to experiment with larger rotors. That day in 2010, I was still running heavy 16" wheels. Nowadays I run lightweight 15s, but unfortunately there don't seem to be any big brake kits available that'll fit a 15" wheel here. They seem to mandate a minimum 16" wheel.