Hey guys,

So I bought my 2007 Fit in December and have since heard that the ECU actually compensates for bolt on mods so that it remains economical. In other words, I/H/E eventually function just to make noise, correct?

What about mods like lightened pulleys, flywheel, clutch? I do plan on getting Hondata eventually but it won't be until I've bought all the bolt ons and it would be nice to have SOME gains before that. There's no way that the ecu will compensate for lighter rotational mass....i hope, lol

I also have a lightweight battery en route, HX wheels (11.75 lbs) and will be getting smaller diameter tires 185/55/14 or something similar for better acceleration. I'm trying to get the car as light as possible yet still be comfortable for daily driving. The interior of the car will be removed for a day at the drag track but will otherwise be intact, as well as A/C.

 

I read on here somewhere that a full, quality IHE can give you about 20 hp. Others suggest sparkplugs, ik22, I think ,and coupled with high octane. But high octane usually starts an argument. DiamondStarMotors is pro high octane, if you prefer his opinions.

 

Dev, if you have the resources, go ahead and install the I/H/E mods, as well as a set of Denso IK-22 plugs set at 0.032". You will feel a difference. The L15A will breath easier, and run much sweeter. Add your lightweight rims and small diameter tires and you will be able to notice a change.
My Son has a stock GD3 which feels "heavy" compared to mine. Konig_Feather just added headers to his GD3 and mentions better response, as well as a 10% increase in MPG.
When I added Hondata, I merely raised the redline to 7,200 rpm (while presently running the base map). That alone made driving more fun. Now I can run it hard w/o accidentally hitting the rev limiter. I am happy with the present combination of mods at this point. When Summer comes around, I'll experiment with tuning the Hondata with more aggressive maps. Hopefully my little L15A has even more excitement to offer!
Oh, one other thing I installed was a battery disconnect switch. This was installed in hopes of resetting the ECU before each AutoX run. This might help you before each pass at the drag strip. You might try experimenting with this idea to see if you notice any advantages.
If you do the lightweight flywheel, crank, clutch, etc, don't forget to report if you see any advantages.

 

Sounds good, but does anyone know for sure if the ecu compensates and overrides the gains from I/h/e ? If not I may get those mods first.

 

2007 Fit would be the GD, correct? Hondata Flashpro is available for GD.

 

You must be referring to the 2nd gen Fits that came out 2009, aka GE's, for which Hondata doesn't make Flashpros.

The short answer is yes, the ECU does adjust to mods, but that doesn't mean that all mods are useless (or simply make more noise).

But yours is probably the 1st gen Fit, so no need to worry about it.

 

OK, yes I do have a GD. Just wanted to know if it was worth it to buy i/h/e now or wait until I got hondata also. Thanks for clearing that up!

 

too small a spark gap. Try 40 as a minimum. I currently run 50 in my 2013 GE8. both gens are similar enough in this aspect.

I was running the stock gap for my plugs (forget actual gap) and after running it and feeling like it lags a bit, took plugs out and gapped them to 50, reinstalled and cr instantly felt much smoother

 

Yes, the ECU has a relearn process. So it will eventually get back to(or close to) stock parameters.

 

What do hondata numbers look like on completely stock? I wish more people were selling used ones. And not to sound like an jackass but where are all the counter-fit e-bay versions.?

 

no, it will NOT go back to stock paramters.


The ecu re adjusts to maintain AFRs whenever possible.

It cannot maintain stock parameters if efficiency is changed.

do you have mods, and also the stock pieces? Borrow or buy an OBD2 scanner and watch your fuel trims.

I learned that is the best way to see if the ecu is actually doing a true relearn or if its just temporarily compensating

 

Out of ALL the counterfeit parts not to buy. A counterfeit engine management system is top of the list.

 

I had to laugh because of the logic of what you said. \

 

real tuning solution


fake tuning solution

lol smiley attack

 

I have the Fit Flash Pro with serial# 0000

Search the Hondata posts, you will see my experiences heavily documented there with details.

In summary, my initial base line dyno with a full I/H/E IK-22's and 91 octane was less than 90hp. After a simple fuel re map I was in the high 90's HP AND TQ. My times at the drag strip and recent dyno show that I am now comfortably in the triple digits after exhaust revisions.

If you spend the $$$ for Dyno time or an E-tune, it is wasted unless you have all the parts you plan to run already on the car. So buying all your "bolt on's" first is totally fine. Your butt dyno will convince you that you made more power, even though you will not. Once you have a tune matched to the parts via FlashPro you won't believe how much more fun the car can be

Lighter pulley's have drawbacks so research that before you commit.

The price of a good flywheel/clutch combo and the installation costs unless you do it yourself will be as much if not more that the FP. I do hate the factory clutch though, and can't wait till I jump to a class that allows me to swap all that out.

 

It must have been your posts that I read about and got the idea that the ecu compensated, TPColgett. Thanks for the info. May I ask what your exhaust revisions were?
Also what were your 1/4 mile times?

 

I went with a Weapon R race header and had it ceramic coated. Then I had to make a custom B pipe that would still adhere to my race class rules. I used a Vibrant high flow cat and had to weld that into the front part of a Megan two piece 2.25" B pipe. Eventually I will have to fully fab an entire race exhaust but that can wait.

1/4 mile times were hilariously bad with my quickest being a 16.529 or some such My car is setup for SCCA Solo or AutoX so having -3.5 degrees camber up front and near 1/8" rear toe out don't do straight line acceleration any favors Still, in bracket racing I actually beat out something like 30 other cars with the 2 step style rev launch and consistent runs once the sun went down. You can see some Mustang guys get sad here


Here is the in car with data logged by the FP:

Since my red line is now 7500 rpm, and seeing that on the dyno I make peak power at around 6K and peak tq around 5K I could probably wind it out a little further and not short shift it so much.

 

The times aren't too bad, good videos. I did a 16.4 in my old EK hatch with d16z6 with CAI and stock exhaust. I'm aiming for 15s in the Fit...nothing too crazy. Did you have any weight taken out? If you take out the interior plastics, seats, mats, belts, spare, jack etc you can remove around 250 lbs. :-)

 

Im thinking 15s in a GE8 are very possible. With full stock exhaust I ran 16.6


Now with the shitty cat-delete by WeaponR and no muffler, I plan on hitting at least a 16.5 or 4

 

With class allowed weight reduction I'm down to 23xx lbs