Originally Posted by DocB04

I didn't see a topic on this so I thought I would show a Step by Step on Changing your Engine Oil.

Disclaimer:
I am not a professional mechanic. This procedure is applicable to my personal Honda Fit 5sp and should not replace the training and judgement of a professional mechanic.

As you know Engine Oil is not something that last very long is you travel as much as I do. This is a Step BY Step procedure for changing your engine oil in a 2007 USDM 5sp Honda Fit. See pictures for help.

TOOLS / SUPPLIES: you will need 4 quarts of 5w-20 oil, 1 oil filter ( I used a Fram PH7317 oil filter with sure grip), an oil filter wrench (not pictured cause i didn't use one), and one 17mm wrench/ ratchet and socket combo.


Step one:
Pop your hood. Don't raise it yet just pull the lever.


Next ensure that your EBrake is Set so that your car doesn't roll when you raise it up on the jack/jack stands.


Next with a floor jack or OEM Jack Raise Each side of the front of the car and place jack stands on the jack points.



Now that your car is jacked up you can raise your hood. Lif the locking mechanism pictured below.


Raise the hood and lock in place with hood stand.



Now unscrew your oil fill cap. Ensure that the black rubber gasket is still on the cap and not left on the valve cover that way you don't lose it. If it has come off just simply place it back onto your filler cap and press it into place.





Now, place your oil catch bucket or bowl under the oil pan, use your 17mm wrench to remove the oil drain bolt and drain all oil contents into the bucket. The first picture shows the bottom of the oil pan and the oil drain bolt. Its cleverly labeled





Once the contents of your oil pan have been drained into your bucket you may replace the oil drain bolt. But first coat it with a thin layer of the used oil that way it doesn't get locked on the pan from the heat. Don't over tighten your drain bolt by tightening it with your wrench as much as you can just a few tightening turns should be plenty.




Now on the opposite side of the oil pan than your oil drain bolt is your oil filter. Position your oil catch bucket underneath your filter and slightly loosen the filter until oil starts draining from it. After a few moments remove the old oil filter and drain the remaining contents into your bucket. Also make sure that your oil filter gasket is not stuck to the oil pan (it is the black ring around the silver part of the filter in picture number 3).





Now grab your new filter and lightly coat the new filters rubber gasket with some old oil to prevent it sticking to the oil pan on your next oil change.


Place the new filter onto the filter threads on the oil pan and tighten as much as you can with your hands. You do not need to tighten with an oil filter wrench.


Now that your filter is on you can crawl out from under the car and start filling the engine with oil. The L15 found in the USDM Fit requires 3.8 quarts of oil. So, take your new 5w-20 oil and start filling through the oil fill area where you removed the cap earlier. Between quart bottles wipe away excess oil and spillage to prevent it from burning onto your valve cover (see picture 2).




Now that the engine has fresh oil inside replace your oil cap and tighten down hand tight, once again don't over tighten that way you can remove it next time.


Now go inside the cabin of your car and start it, ensure that none of the lights pictured below remain on or come of after starting the car.


Now to reset your oil life gauge that is combined with your trip meter, hold the button down for aprox. 10 seconds or until it starts flashing. Once it starts flashing release the button and then press it again and hold it for 5 seconds or until the "Oil Life" returns to 100%.


If you have anything that you feel needs to be added to this thread please post up and let me know and I will edit the thread to show the most possible correctness.

Thanks and Happy Modding
Clint.

Originally Posted by Fit of RAGE

i highly recommend NOT using synthetic oil during the first 10K miles. The reason is that with the synthetic oil, the engine will not "break in" properly

Originally Posted by fm2n

It's quite simple. It's one of those things where once you try it, you'll realize how easy it is. Use gorilla ramps. Be sure to buy a self tightening oil filter remover/tightener. It's the kind where the more when you turn it, it tighter the grip gets. As for the oil drain screw, you should purchase on ebay a "FRAM SUREDRAIN" Our car uses size: SD-2. This will make life so much easier otherwise you end up spilling oil everywhere.

As for oil, you can use synthetic. In fact, check out Walmart. Their Castrol Syntec 5-20 5 quart jug is only $21.00 compared to paying $6.00 per quart of Mobil 1 5-20 synthetic. You'll be lucky to find Mobil 1 5-20 in a 5 quart jug.

People argue that synthetic shouldn't be used until 10,000 miles since a lot of deposits are still being released from the engine. Many other feel that 3,000 miles surpasses the break-in point.

Personally, what I used was Motorcraft 5-20 Synth-blend from walmart on my first change, that way I wont spend so much on removing the extra deposits. I drove it for 3,000 miles, and now I'm using all Castrol Synthetic with 7,500 change intervals.

Good luck.
Andy

Originally Posted by pokems23

Does anyone know the socket size for the oil drain plug for an '07?????