DIY Oil Change 56k beware
thanks for the advise..=]
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 390
From: Fairbanks, AK
I changed my oil at 3000 miles with Mobil1 synthetic and have changed it every 3000 miles since with Mobil1. The car uses no oil between changes and the oil on the dipstick at 50,000 miles looks clean.
I did the same with a 1990 Honda Civic Si and it also used no oil between changes. At 282,000 miles it still ran flawlessly until it encountered a Moose in 1999, or else I'd still be driving it.
I did the same with a 1990 Honda Civic Si and it also used no oil between changes. At 282,000 miles it still ran flawlessly until it encountered a Moose in 1999, or else I'd still be driving it.
Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 578
From: Wilton, CT
I changed my oil at 3000 miles with Mobil1 synthetic and have changed it every 3000 miles since with Mobil1. The car uses no oil between changes and the oil on the dipstick at 50,000 miles looks clean.
I did the same with a 1990 Honda Civic Si and it also used no oil between changes. At 282,000 miles it still ran flawlessly until it encountered a Moose in 1999, or else I'd still be driving it.
I did the same with a 1990 Honda Civic Si and it also used no oil between changes. At 282,000 miles it still ran flawlessly until it encountered a Moose in 1999, or else I'd still be driving it.
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,704
From: Second house on the left
Custom Accessories - DOUBLE WIPER BLADES 18” RED
And, you had to buy this expensive wiper blade sharpener!
Wiper Blade Sharpener - $24.99 : KaleCoAuto, Hard to find automotive items!
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 577
From: Conn
But seriously, you don't need to change the Mobil 1 every 3,000 miles. Three of my cars were driven exclusively with Mobil 1. All had perfect engines over 185K and I never changed Mobil 1 out before 10K between changes The cars always rotted out in body panels or the suspensions started to go. The repairs weren't worth the cost of upgrading. You're wasting scads of money on synthetic if you change every 3K.
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 322
From: Running Springs, CA
IMO Mobil1 synthetic is the only way to go. I have an 09 Fit Sport 5 speed and will change to Mobil1 on the first change about 3K. The car it replaced was an 03 Toyota Martix with 287K, never had anything but Mobil1 and those Wal-Mart oil filters. I ran the Mobil1 10K between changes-the old Toyota never leaked or used oil...amazing oil!!!
As long as you are in warranty, I would use Honda oil filters and keep the receipts. And just for the record, I'm not a big fan of Fram oil filters but they are manufactured by a company named Honeywell. Honeywell also makes Honda filters! (I'm sure to different spec's but still same company). The Honda dealer also advised me not to use Royal Purple...something about the formulation???
As long as you are in warranty, I would use Honda oil filters and keep the receipts. And just for the record, I'm not a big fan of Fram oil filters but they are manufactured by a company named Honeywell. Honeywell also makes Honda filters! (I'm sure to different spec's but still same company). The Honda dealer also advised me not to use Royal Purple...something about the formulation???
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 23
From: Everett, WA
Only recommendations I can make are:
1) Buy a factory oil filter, or Fram Tough Guard, as they have 1 way valves. The filter is sideways and will drain back into the pan, this prevents cold starts with little to no oil.
2) Just buy some 2x8's and build ramps. I did mine three high, 45 degree angle cut and stack like stairs, then drill together. Kind of ghetto but most ramps are too steep to accommodate the fits bumper. This is much more stable than jacking it up.
1) Buy a factory oil filter, or Fram Tough Guard, as they have 1 way valves. The filter is sideways and will drain back into the pan, this prevents cold starts with little to no oil.
2) Just buy some 2x8's and build ramps. I did mine three high, 45 degree angle cut and stack like stairs, then drill together. Kind of ghetto but most ramps are too steep to accommodate the fits bumper. This is much more stable than jacking it up.
Dont get fram. Just so you all know, fram started using recycled material in their filters, and after a few hundred miles they decay. So you pretty much get all the crap from
the filter in your car. Be careful!
the filter in your car. Be careful!
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 577
From: Conn
Only recommendations I can make are:
1) Buy a factory oil filter, or Fram Tough Guard, as they have 1 way valves. The filter is sideways and will drain back into the pan, this prevents cold starts with little to no oil.
2) Just buy some 2x8's and build ramps. I did mine three high, 45 degree angle cut and stack like stairs, then drill together. Kind of ghetto but most ramps are too steep to accommodate the fits bumper. This is much more stable than jacking it up.
1) Buy a factory oil filter, or Fram Tough Guard, as they have 1 way valves. The filter is sideways and will drain back into the pan, this prevents cold starts with little to no oil.
2) Just buy some 2x8's and build ramps. I did mine three high, 45 degree angle cut and stack like stairs, then drill together. Kind of ghetto but most ramps are too steep to accommodate the fits bumper. This is much more stable than jacking it up.
Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 110
From: BC
I didn't see a topic on this so I thought I would show a Step by Step on Changing your Engine Oil.
Disclaimer:
I am not a professional mechanic. This procedure is applicable to my personal Honda Fit 5sp and should not replace the training and judgement of a professional mechanic.
As you know Engine Oil is not something that last very long is you travel as much as I do. This is a Step BY Step procedure for changing your engine oil in a 2007 USDM 5sp Honda Fit. See pictures for help.
TOOLS / SUPPLIES: you will need 4 quarts of 5w-20 oil, 1 oil filter ( I used a Fram PH7317 oil filter with sure grip), an oil filter wrench (not pictured cause i didn't use one), and one 17mm wrench/ ratchet and socket combo.
Step one:
Pop your hood. Don't raise it yet just pull the lever.
Thanks and Happy Modding
Clint.
Disclaimer:
I am not a professional mechanic. This procedure is applicable to my personal Honda Fit 5sp and should not replace the training and judgement of a professional mechanic.
As you know Engine Oil is not something that last very long is you travel as much as I do. This is a Step BY Step procedure for changing your engine oil in a 2007 USDM 5sp Honda Fit. See pictures for help.
TOOLS / SUPPLIES: you will need 4 quarts of 5w-20 oil, 1 oil filter ( I used a Fram PH7317 oil filter with sure grip), an oil filter wrench (not pictured cause i didn't use one), and one 17mm wrench/ ratchet and socket combo.
Step one:
Pop your hood. Don't raise it yet just pull the lever.
Thanks and Happy Modding
Clint.
Does anyone have an updated, step by step procedure with photos?
Book appointment online with your local dealer. Take car in, pour a coffee and read the paper. Pay nominal fee go home. All done. No used oil to dump illegally, no torque wrench to buy, no ramps to store etc etc.
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,704
From: Second house on the left
New Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
It's quite simple. It's one of those things where once you try it, you'll realize how easy it is. Use gorilla ramps. Be sure to buy a self tightening oil filter remover/tightener. It's the kind where the more when you turn it, it tighter the grip gets. As for the oil drain screw, you should purchase on ebay a "FRAM SUREDRAIN" Our car uses size: SD-2. This will make life so much easier otherwise you end up spilling oil everywhere.
As for oil, you can use synthetic. In fact, check out Walmart. Their Castrol Syntec 5-20 5 quart jug is only $21.00 compared to paying $6.00 per quart of Mobil 1 5-20 synthetic. You'll be lucky to find Mobil 1 5-20 in a 5 quart jug.
People argue that synthetic shouldn't be used until 10,000 miles since a lot of deposits are still being released from the engine. Many other feel that 3,000 miles surpasses the break-in point.
Personally, what I used was Motorcraft 5-20 Synth-blend from walmart on my first change, that way I wont spend so much on removing the extra deposits. I drove it for 3,000 miles, and now I'm using all Castrol Synthetic with 7,500 change intervals.
Good luck.
Andy
As for oil, you can use synthetic. In fact, check out Walmart. Their Castrol Syntec 5-20 5 quart jug is only $21.00 compared to paying $6.00 per quart of Mobil 1 5-20 synthetic. You'll be lucky to find Mobil 1 5-20 in a 5 quart jug.
People argue that synthetic shouldn't be used until 10,000 miles since a lot of deposits are still being released from the engine. Many other feel that 3,000 miles surpasses the break-in point.
Personally, what I used was Motorcraft 5-20 Synth-blend from walmart on my first change, that way I wont spend so much on removing the extra deposits. I drove it for 3,000 miles, and now I'm using all Castrol Synthetic with 7,500 change intervals.
Good luck.
Andy
You don't necessarily need to go 10,000 miles w/o using synthetic, but the reason for not using it as your first oil change is so the rings will properly seat. Synthetic works so well at lubricating that it doesn't always allow the rings to seat properly. Just thought you might like to know.
Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 134
From: Lexington, MA
Honda disagrees
You don't necessarily need to go 10,000 miles w/o using synthetic, but the reason for not using it as your first oil change is so the rings will properly seat. Synthetic works so well at lubricating that it doesn't always allow the rings to seat properly. Just thought you might like to know.
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