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DIY Oil Change 56k beware

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  #221  
Old 04-14-2010, 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Fit of RAGE
i highly recommend NOT using synthetic oil during the first 10K miles. The reason is that with the synthetic oil, the engine will not "break in" properly

thanks for the advise..=]
 
  #222  
Old 04-14-2010, 12:47 PM
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I changed my oil at 3000 miles with Mobil1 synthetic and have changed it every 3000 miles since with Mobil1. The car uses no oil between changes and the oil on the dipstick at 50,000 miles looks clean.

I did the same with a 1990 Honda Civic Si and it also used no oil between changes. At 282,000 miles it still ran flawlessly until it encountered a Moose in 1999, or else I'd still be driving it.
 
  #223  
Old 04-14-2010, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by der Mond
I changed my oil at 3000 miles with Mobil1 synthetic and have changed it every 3000 miles since with Mobil1. The car uses no oil between changes and the oil on the dipstick at 50,000 miles looks clean.

I did the same with a 1990 Honda Civic Si and it also used no oil between changes. At 282,000 miles it still ran flawlessly until it encountered a Moose in 1999, or else I'd still be driving it.
I changed my wiper blades every 3 weeks on my old car, and my windshield lasted more than 175k miles.

 
  #224  
Old 04-15-2010, 12:11 AM
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Man, now you tell me - if I had only changed out my wiper blades...maybe no moose...
 
  #225  
Old 04-15-2010, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Daemione
I changed my wiper blades every 3 weeks on my old car, and my windshield lasted more than 175k miles.

Trouble is, you used those Dayglo Red double blades!

Custom Accessories - DOUBLE WIPER BLADES 18” RED

And, you had to buy this expensive wiper blade sharpener!

Wiper Blade Sharpener - $24.99 : KaleCoAuto, Hard to find automotive items!


 
  #226  
Old 04-16-2010, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Daemione
I changed my wiper blades every 3 weeks on my old car, and my windshield lasted more than 175k miles.

I never smoked and my ashtray is up to 175K. The car has been junked but I still have the ashtray.

But seriously, you don't need to change the Mobil 1 every 3,000 miles. Three of my cars were driven exclusively with Mobil 1. All had perfect engines over 185K and I never changed Mobil 1 out before 10K between changes The cars always rotted out in body panels or the suspensions started to go. The repairs weren't worth the cost of upgrading. You're wasting scads of money on synthetic if you change every 3K.
 
  #227  
Old 05-04-2010, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Papparock
IMO Mobil1 synthetic is the only way to go. I have an 09 Fit Sport 5 speed and will change to Mobil1 on the first change about 3K. The car it replaced was an 03 Toyota Martix with 287K, never had anything but Mobil1 and those Wal-Mart oil filters. I ran the Mobil1 10K between changes-the old Toyota never leaked or used oil...amazing oil!!!

As long as you are in warranty, I would use Honda oil filters and keep the receipts. And just for the record, I'm not a big fan of Fram oil filters but they are manufactured by a company named Honeywell. Honeywell also makes Honda filters! (I'm sure to different spec's but still same company). The Honda dealer also advised me not to use Royal Purple...something about the formulation???
For a full synthetic, RP seems to shear out of grade quickly. In motorcycles, where the engine, clutch and gears share the same oil supply, shift quality stinks after a relatively short time. My guess it that the additives are weak. I know these oil threads on the internet tend to get out of hand, but this board is civil. Mystic is a brand of oil, but there is nothing mystical about it, just somewhat complex chemistry.
 
  #228  
Old 05-16-2010, 09:14 PM
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Only recommendations I can make are:
1) Buy a factory oil filter, or Fram Tough Guard, as they have 1 way valves. The filter is sideways and will drain back into the pan, this prevents cold starts with little to no oil.
2) Just buy some 2x8's and build ramps. I did mine three high, 45 degree angle cut and stack like stairs, then drill together. Kind of ghetto but most ramps are too steep to accommodate the fits bumper. This is much more stable than jacking it up.
 
  #229  
Old 05-17-2010, 12:48 AM
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Dont get fram. Just so you all know, fram started using recycled material in their filters, and after a few hundred miles they decay. So you pretty much get all the crap from
the filter in your car. Be careful!
 
  #230  
Old 05-17-2010, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ToyBoarder
Only recommendations I can make are:
1) Buy a factory oil filter, or Fram Tough Guard, as they have 1 way valves. The filter is sideways and will drain back into the pan, this prevents cold starts with little to no oil.
2) Just buy some 2x8's and build ramps. I did mine three high, 45 degree angle cut and stack like stairs, then drill together. Kind of ghetto but most ramps are too steep to accommodate the fits bumper. This is much more stable than jacking it up.
So, am I correct... your ramp is 3 x 1.5 inches high? 4.5 inches is enough? Do you have a picture of this ramp? I must be missing something.thanks.
 
  #231  
Old 05-18-2010, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by shaun954
Dont get fram. Just so you all know, fram started using recycled material in their filters, and after a few hundred miles they decay. So you pretty much get all the crap from
the filter in your car. Be careful!
What really
 
  #232  
Old 05-18-2010, 02:43 PM
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Yep look it up!
also my friend is a manager at advanced auto parts and he also told me!
 
  #233  
Old 12-11-2010, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DocB04
I didn't see a topic on this so I thought I would show a Step by Step on Changing your Engine Oil.

Disclaimer:
I am not a professional mechanic. This procedure is applicable to my personal Honda Fit 5sp and should not replace the training and judgement of a professional mechanic.

As you know Engine Oil is not something that last very long is you travel as much as I do. This is a Step BY Step procedure for changing your engine oil in a 2007 USDM 5sp Honda Fit. See pictures for help.

TOOLS / SUPPLIES: you will need 4 quarts of 5w-20 oil, 1 oil filter ( I used a Fram PH7317 oil filter with sure grip), an oil filter wrench (not pictured cause i didn't use one), and one 17mm wrench/ ratchet and socket combo.


Step one:
Pop your hood. Don't raise it yet just pull the lever.

Thanks and Happy Modding
Clint.

Does anyone have an updated, step by step procedure with photos?
 
  #234  
Old 12-12-2010, 06:12 AM
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Book appointment online with your local dealer. Take car in, pour a coffee and read the paper. Pay nominal fee go home. All done. No used oil to dump illegally, no torque wrench to buy, no ramps to store etc etc.

 
  #235  
Old 12-12-2010, 09:58 AM
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Dump illegally? Gas stations welcome used oil- they sell it back to the oil company. Or better- my mechanic heats his shop using used oil (he says his oil burner was built for that purpose).
 
  #236  
Old 12-12-2010, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Black3sr
Book appointment online with your local dealer. Take car in, pour a coffee and read the paper. Pay nominal fee go home. All done. No used oil to dump illegally, no torque wrench to buy, no ramps to store etc etc.
He wanted photos! (So do I, if the Service Writer is pretty)
 
  #237  
Old 02-07-2017, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by fm2n
It's quite simple. It's one of those things where once you try it, you'll realize how easy it is. Use gorilla ramps. Be sure to buy a self tightening oil filter remover/tightener. It's the kind where the more when you turn it, it tighter the grip gets. As for the oil drain screw, you should purchase on ebay a "FRAM SUREDRAIN" Our car uses size: SD-2. This will make life so much easier otherwise you end up spilling oil everywhere.

As for oil, you can use synthetic. In fact, check out Walmart. Their Castrol Syntec 5-20 5 quart jug is only $21.00 compared to paying $6.00 per quart of Mobil 1 5-20 synthetic. You'll be lucky to find Mobil 1 5-20 in a 5 quart jug.

People argue that synthetic shouldn't be used until 10,000 miles since a lot of deposits are still being released from the engine. Many other feel that 3,000 miles surpasses the break-in point.

Personally, what I used was Motorcraft 5-20 Synth-blend from walmart on my first change, that way I wont spend so much on removing the extra deposits. I drove it for 3,000 miles, and now I'm using all Castrol Synthetic with 7,500 change intervals.

Good luck.
Andy

You don't necessarily need to go 10,000 miles w/o using synthetic, but the reason for not using it as your first oil change is so the rings will properly seat. Synthetic works so well at lubricating that it doesn't always allow the rings to seat properly. Just thought you might like to know.
 
  #238  
Old 02-07-2017, 07:22 PM
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Honda disagrees

Originally Posted by lhcbc1
You don't necessarily need to go 10,000 miles w/o using synthetic, but the reason for not using it as your first oil change is so the rings will properly seat. Synthetic works so well at lubricating that it doesn't always allow the rings to seat properly. Just thought you might like to know.
Honda says nothing about not using synthetic for first oil change, only not to change first time until Maintenance Minder tells you to, at least for my 2009. For me that was between 10K and 11K miles. Those of you suggesting changing earlier than maintenance minder for first oil change, you THINK you know better than Honda engineers. Maybe you should think again.
 
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