If you search the internet you can find a whole bunch of comparisons on why not to use fram filter. I mean they work but I don't even thing they have a safty bypass valve in there filters.

 

I've seen the internet comparisons, but most cannot substantiate that the Fram presents a hazard or increased wear to the engine...I've only seen opinions about cardboard and such, which really just subjective observations.

You would think that Fram (Honeywell) wouldn't be able to sell filters if they didn't work. But they've been selling for a long time and they do work adequately for an average car.

Now I'm not saying there aren't better available filters...but for a stock engine daily driver I think it's a waste buying really fancy filtration.

 

FRAM filters do not incorperate a backflow valve (one way stopper)
so in some cases dirty oil can drain back into the oil pan. and also the first couple seconds after you start the car it is without oil as it needs to pressurize the filter first and then distribute it to the rest of the engine.

spending a couple dollars on a better filter is worth it to me to increase the longevity of the motor.

 

But they do...at least the ToughGuard ones have one: Fram :: Products : Oil Filters

I've always questioned the need for a drain-back valve...my thinking is that much of the contaminates get embedded or trapped in the filter media. Also, the mounting angles of the filter are usually such that oil cannot flow back down into the pan...or at least most of it cannot. I think the key item is the filter media...in which case it probably is worth the extra $ or so to get a better one.

 

Thats awesome dude, thanks for all the steps.

Out of curiosity, how much do you save by doing your own oil change rather than taking it in to the dealership.

Off the top of my head, and totally could be wrong about this, the dealership here charges 33 CND to get an oil change...

 

excellent job mate, i think you covered all the bases (honda/acura mech here).

yes, we do give away the washers for free, i usually make sure to grab a few every time i go to the parts counter, you never know...many quick-lube places forget to change them, then we get the car 1000 miles later with a "hey, my car's leaking oil and i JUST got it changed."

another thing, i'd make sure to check your tire pressures whilst doing the oil change and all your filters as well, but you already knew that, riiiight?

to all the diy'ers: keep good logs and receipts of oil changes. it could save your ass one day. in my r32, i got a new motor at 55k due to excessive consumption. luckily, i had receipts of every oil change done (with mobil1 0w40) with mileages in my log. of course, me being a vw mechanic at the time helped out a bit, but still, the warranty reps don't play favorites, and honda's are no different...trust.

if you're going to run dino oil, then i reccomend 5k oil changes at the minimum. if you're running synthetic or a blended oil, then you can safely use the maintenance minder. for oil, i have to stand by mobil1 though. however, everyone has their own opinion on oil...so what can ya do?

filters, just run honda oem or hamp...at least they have the anti-drainback valve. i've also run k&n oil filters in my integra-r with 15k filter change intervals, and not seen problems.

just the musings of a honda tech.

 

so is the plastic safe? Just can't really imagine plastic supporting that much weight. Let me know, thanks

 

I have been using the same plastic ramps for years. Perfectly safe.

 

A Boeing 757 commercial aircraft has the entire fuselage and most of the wings made of structural plastic. You can trust ramps properly made of the right kind of plastic to hold up your car. The same company makes ramps for the largest trucks also, that carry twice as much weight.

 

For those sticking with 5W20 Synthetic blends.....

Supposedly, Ford-Motorcraft is the same as ConocoPhillips (TropArtic, Kendall, etc.)

And Honda (North America) Is Mobil made. Looking at Mobil's website, Mobil Clean 7500 perhaps?

Anyone heard of a change in Honda MT gearbox oil to a light green label bottle that supposedly shifts better? I just changed my MT oil at 15K with a dark green label. Anyone work for a dealer wish to shed some light on this?

 

One thing that I have tried to do with every other vehicle is to pour in some new oil into the filter before installing it. The paper element tends to soak up most of it (and it is a pain in a horizontal-mount situation like the Fit), but it will help ensure that SOME oil gets circulated prior to full pressurization.

 

Good job dude,,
there is one thing that is PARAMOUNT to a good oil change,,,,,,,
do it after warming the oil up to operating temp. If you just pull the plug on cold oil, alot of the stuff in the bottom of the pan that you want to go out with the dirty oil is left there. Be carefull of the hot exhaust and stuff,,,
Also leave the oil fill cap in place untill you go to put oil in the engine. There is no reason (IMHO) to leave that big hole there for anything bad to fall into the engine.
Now about turning the engine over with no spark plugs hooked up,,,from what I know, an eletronic ingnition system should NEVER be activated with an open circit. Correct me if I'm wrong please. I love the idea of turning the motor over untill the OP gets up , but have not heard a good way to do that yet,,,

 

Ah, the "prime the engine so it is not dry" bit made it here (removing wires).

This is VERY true on a dry motor (eg, one just built or re-built) and not run that does have a lot of metal on metal or assembly oil in it. Some motors, such as the ancient Volvo B18 and 20 specify the pre priming of the oil in the motor by accessing the oil pump drive by removing the distributor.

Now, the typical drain and fill oil change.....granted, while there may be some "lag time" for the oil pressure to build and for the light to go out, there is enough old oil in there to give everythng a lubricating surface. Just do not rev it, and keep an watchful eye on the gauge/light and then check the filter and plug before you are done.

 

I agree with Spule 4-

Once a new engine is fully assembled and run at the factory, there is enough porosity in the surfaces of bearing journals, valve stems & seals, and enough micro-scratches from honing on the cylinder wall surfaces to retain plenty of lubricant to prevent wear from occurring on the first start after an oil change.

NEW engines being assembled from unused parts for the first time are assembled with high shear-strength grease on all bearing surfaces (like brand names such as "Lubriplate Assembly Grease").

Tear down and reassemble an engine yourself sometime, and you'll see how groundless this "starting a dry engine" really is. Your dealer, and every other "drive through oil change service shop" do not unplug spark plugs or even pre-fill our tiny horizontal-mount oil filters. If engine failure resulted from their practices, their liability insurance companies would make them follow the "prime the engine" advice----- this is not the case.

 

Thanks for the DIY!

 

Wow! Nice post! thanks this is really Very Useful! Hope More Post to come! Buying a manual Books really suck! Because they don't have Pictures every step. This Post really help...

 

I use a Pela 6000 oil pump to extract the oil from my VW TDIs. Is it possible to use the same extractor for a Honda FIT? It beats having to put the car on jack stands....

 

There is a sump area built in the pan to collect crap in the bottom. When you drain the oil you get some of this stuff out. Do you get this using a pump?

 

This could start a pump vs. drain war like it does on other forums.

A Yes or No would suffice.

 

Always prime your filter. Yes, horizontal filters are little messy. Just don't fill them up to the top. Fill it half way and let it sit while you go under the car to drain the pan and remove the old filter. The oil you put in the new filter will be absorbed by the time you are ready to install. If there is still some visible inside the new filter rotate round and round and it will be absorbed. Make sure that you use a clean cloth to wipe the deck area where the new filter seats. Road grime will gather around the outside of the filter base but most important you will see if the old filter left its gasket up there stuck to the block. Upon start up the system is preasurized like now. Oil light doesn't even come on or for maybe a second. Later, Barf