Did a valve adjustment, stutter gone.

 

You can add heat before fill up or after but I would not add it to a half a tank and drive it around.

My experience with bad gas is why I always say run a few tanks of premium first. It wont hurt the car and most of the time the car is fixed. I just had a problem with my wife's car and it was fixed by using premium. I wont use any thing else in my car and the 2.40 cost is worth it in mpg and reliability.

I would change the plugs. Replace the fuel filter too. Coils might be need to be replaced but I would do that at last resort. There might be vacuum leaks too.

 

It is almost inevitable that the coils will go bad.. When the temperature drops it is a good idea to have Heet (methanol) handy due to the way ethanol in today's fuel attracts water either in the underground tanks or the tank of the car... You are much less likely to get water in a full tank than one that is close to being empty. If you aren't going to be driving your car for a few days, fill it up before you park it... A shot of starting fluid into the throttle body will prevent you from running your battery down by getting the engine to start and run even with water in the fuel line and injectors while the Heet is absorbing the water in the tank... I'm glad I don't have to worry about water in the fuel very often but it does happen here in this part of Texas sometimes.... It is 32.7 degrees here now so I guess winter is finally arriving.

 

I should of said Iso Heet. 2 times of year this happens late fall and spring. When the temps changes 4 times a day it squeezes the water out of the gas. Iso heet will hold it in to suspension and methanol causes it to drop to the bottom of the tank in which it could cause some problems.

Tex if its that cold down there then winter has arrived. We had a good run of mild weather near 60 and lows in the 30s. Dec 1 seems to be the winter turn on and the deep freeze happens with snow.

 

I had valves adjusted. worked for about a week. I have 169K miles and it started at 167K. next fix they say is to replace Coil at $660.00 with no promice that will fix the problem.

 

It is a simple job to replace the coils and there are dealerships online that will sell the coils to you for less than a brick and mortar dealership that will do the work.. There are also aftermarket suppliers that you can get coils from for even less. You can probably find the names of who has aftermarket coils by reading earlier post on this thread... A whole lot of people had to replace their coils at a much lower mileage than you have driven.. It is odd to me that many people have had their valves adjusted with positive results for a short period of time before replacing the coils solved the problem... If you haven't added any fuel system cleaner to the gas tank recently you may want to do it just in case one or more of your injectors are partially clogged... You didn't mention whether the spark plugs have been looked at or changed recently either but if they have been in the last 20,000 miles they shouldn't be causing the problem..+

 

'

That's about three hundred or so in labor for a really easy job.

 

WHAT THE F--K??????!?!?!? It's time for a dealer change!! It's a job that takes something like 20min to do!! 4 bolts, 4 connectors, good to go!

Marko!!

 

At 'only' 167k miles you have way exceeded the rest of Fit owners who have had to replace coil paks. And like these others say its too easy a job to st $200 plus $100 per coil pak.
Try Majestic Honda for the prices on coil paks and then seek out a good independent shop that will do the job for less than $100 labor..
Be careful of the aftermarket coil paks as some have not been very good (we've replaced a few new ones).
And for the last time get an OBD checker and verify the prolem. If that indicates bad coil paks you can bet on it. And while you're at it replace the plugs too. good luck. cheers

 

I agree with the sound thought process.... try the most obvious, but over-looked option... it may just work for you.

 

My arms are too large for that job to be done in 20 minutes. I can't imagine doing that job without removing the wipers and external body metal below them to get to the coils... at least on an 09.

 

Just to piggy back on your bad gas, I've always tried to keep the tank full for the most part, with all my cars. Helps minimize condensation in the empty space. Just my thoughts...

 

Following recommendations from this post above, I added a bottle of iso-HEET to a full tank of gas as an easy thing to try first. There was a couple bad stutters leaving the gas station, but the stuttering was completely gone within 4 miles. The acceleration response has returned that I haven't seen in I don't remember how long.

 

I have a 2007 Fit S and it just started doing this yesterday. I have 118,000 miles on the car and haven't changed the spark plugs. Gonna start with that and take some suggestions from this forum and see if I can fix the problem.

 

I have read in the shop and repair manuals of numerous cars and motorcycles in recent years, ( 20 or more) that when you have to turn over the engine with one or more of the spark plugs out of the cylinder head, the plug if still connected to the wire or the wire it self must be grounded to prevent damage to other parts of the ignition system... If there was carbon build up where the coil connects to a plug enough that there is no connection there is a possibility of damaging the coil or another ignition component.. More than likely though it would be the coil since that appears to be the only ignition problem that arises.. My engine is low mileage for a car purchased in 2006 but with more demand on the spark plugs and coils due to the higher combustion chamber pressure due to being supercharged.. I have changed the plugs three times in 40000 miles and used anti seize and compound dielectric checking for carbon formation inside the coil, so far without seeing any...Also I am in the habit of using premium fuel and frequently a concentrated mix of Lucus fuel conditioner or Marvel Mystery oil with Berryman's B12 in the tank when it is low and drive the hell out of the car cutting the engine off while under load when I park it.. I let the car sit until I need to go some where and then fill the tank... The additives cleans and lubricates the fuel system and combustion chamber.While the car is sitting the oily stuff sits in the combustion, ports, pistons and spark plug electrodes and softens up carbon build up that is blown loose and exits the exhaust as you run it with the throttle as open as possible when you drive it to fill the tank... I generally do this about every other tank and other that a couple of belt adjustments tire rotations and earlier than recommended oil and other fluid changes is about the only thing I do as maintenance on my car... I owned numerous British cars and motorcycles as well as cool older cars that needed maintenance procedures and quirks that had me working on the side of the road at night with a flashlight a meager set of tools, scotch tape and baling wire. In time you learn to take precautions that prevent a lot of surprises.

 

ORI is common and causes major problems. With in 15000 miles you could need 100 octane fuel. http://www.fuelsaverinc.com/sae1991.pdf

Honda has many provisions built in to help lower the octane requirement and even the moly on the piston's provide a source of octane reduction but carbon deposits builds anyways and raises the octane requirement. Gasoline compositions containing hexavalent molybdenum - Magidson, William H.

Carbon is hard to clean and even when we use carbon cleaner there is still hot spots left behind.

 

Update for me.

100,000 miles i did a tune up and changed plugs since i felt a small little stutter if i pressed the gas pedal more than 40% but at idle i've never had issues. Once i changed the plugs everything was back to normal

115,000 miles and the stutter came back again and i knew what the issue was so luckily i had the coilpacks on hand and i changed them. My car showed 3/4 coilpacks have gone bad. Now that i got them changed the car runs great and it feels good to be able to press the gas pedal more than 40%.

I must add that my mechanic was saying that my car was running lean (smell of the exhaust) and I personally noticed my MPG went down too when i was having stutter issues.

 

Man it's been a while since I've posted. I actually came back to this site looking for a free service manual to help diagnose what my problem is. As soon as I saw the topic title I knew that this was the same exact problem I was having.

After reading the first couple of pages and the last couple of pages, I'm led to beleive that my coil packs may be the culprit. I've been having these issues for a long time now, sometimes it worse than others and figured that if my check engine light hasn't turned on then the problem must not be major.

I'm currently at 126,000 miles, and I'd say I first noticed an issue at about 30,000. The first time I noticed something was when my Fit stalled at a stop light on my way home. It started right back up, drove it home and it would contimue to stall here and there. I spoke to my mechanic(works at the dealer but does side jobs) and he notified me about the valve adjustment issues. So I got that done and it was good to go for about another 30,000 miles.

Started noticing the stutter more but the car wouldn't stall anymore so I went in for another valve adjustment. After that time it would only stuttter on occasion with the AC on. Last service I did was a little over 100,000 miles which was another valve adjustment and new Honda plugs. Damn those suckers where expensive for the parts! Anyways, the problem continued (pretty bad actually) until I added a bottle of seafoam to a tank of gas. That helped very much, but did not rid the problem. Next step is to call my buddy again and ask him to check the coil packs.

I was even considering getting a new car, but now that I've read this I'd rather spend a few hundred and get them replaced! Thanks FitFreak!!!

 

Update:

I ran out the tank of gas that I had put in the car just before the stuttering started. The stuttering came back, despite the bottle of Heet I added, but it wasn't as bad as before.

However, on the next tank (of regular gas with no additive), the stuttering wasn't going away. As with many posters here, it was showed up just occasionally, at 60-65mph on slight grades. Also sometimes when the engine was cold and I stomped on the gas. (Never at idle.) It only caused an Engine Check Light a couple times, with error codes 0301, 0302 and 0300. I ran this second tank down to 1 gallon and filled it again this morning.

So, I decided it's time to move onto phase 2: changing the spark plugs. I put in a new set of the NGK iridium plugs recommended in the service manual. (Easy job - took less than an hour.)

The old plugs didn't look too bad - light brown soot with some shiny black areas on the underside the ground arm. Plug 1 was a bit sootier than the rest.

At 75,000 miles, it was probably time to change plugs anyway. I'll keep you guys posted on the results.

 

It sounds like 1 and 2 plugs were bad. How did the coil packs look? Any signs of carbon on the plug boots?