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Has coil replacement fixed anyone's misfire/stutter?

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  #221  
Old 01-05-2019, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by homebrew
Autolite Platinum plugs AP5224
Not Iridium? **tsk**

 
  #222  
Old 01-05-2019, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbuff2
Not Iridium? **tsk**
Really makes a big difference ??
 
  #223  
Old 01-05-2019, 08:44 PM
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Yeah they burn better, less coil voltage too I wager. HMMM...

But yeah, do a valve adjustment. I've checked our '07 three times in 150K miles, and the exhaust valves were always tight.

PS: What year is yours? GD uses Hitachi coils part # ending in 53...GE uses Hitachi coils ending in 73.
 
  #224  
Old 01-05-2019, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbuff2
Yeah they burn better, less coil voltage too I wager. HMMM...

But yeah, do a valve adjustment. I've checked our '07 three times in 150K miles, and the exhaust valves were always tight.

PS: What year is yours? GD uses Hitachi coils part # ending in 53...GE uses Hitachi coils ending in 73.
2009 Fit.
Would mis-adjusted valves cause that error code ?

83-1 ECM / PCM Relation Malfunction
P 0303 Cyl 3 Misfire
 
  #225  
Old 01-05-2019, 10:44 PM
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Definitely get those plugs changed for iridium. Denso or NGK. Car was spec'd from the factory for iridium. Platinum plugs have different resistance properties and can cause problems including misfires and poor performance.

Your 83-1 code can just be the VSA system inoperable due to the motor misfiring. Also, check all electrical connections.

Get the plugs changed with proper plugs and go from there. Disconnect the battery during the plug change as well so that the ECU resets.
 
  #226  
Old 01-05-2019, 11:09 PM
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The car stalls completely once in a while, which must be more than wrong type of plug, no ?
Since it happened before I replaced the plugs too.
 
  #227  
Old 01-06-2019, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by homebrew
The car stalls completely once in a while, which must be more than wrong type of plug, no ?
Since it happened before I replaced the plugs too.
Maybe, but you have to make sure one thing is correct before moving on to the next. Changing the plugs will also give you a chance to look over all electrical connections and reset the ECU by having the battery disconnected. After the plug change, if it still runs poorly, you can check codes again.

Since platinum plugs are NOT spec'd for any modern Honda engine, the "pre-gapped" plugs are likely also not the correct gap. Max is .044. Many find .040 or even slightly less to run better.

There's a good chance it also needs a valve adjustment.
 
  #228  
Old 01-06-2019, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by GAFIT
Maybe, but you have to make sure one thing is correct before moving on to the next. Changing the plugs will also give you a chance to look over all electrical connections and reset the ECU by having the battery disconnected. After the plug change, if it still runs poorly, you can check codes again.

Since platinum plugs are NOT spec'd for any modern Honda engine, the "pre-gapped" plugs are likely also not the correct gap. Max is .044. Many find .040 or even slightly less to run better.

There's a good chance it also needs a valve adjustment.
Searching for videos on valve adjustment. Might be a bit too big a job for me.
What would a shop charge ?
 

Last edited by homebrew; 01-06-2019 at 01:17 PM.
  #229  
Old 01-06-2019, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by GAFIT

Your 83-1 code can just be the VSA system inoperable due to the motor misfiring. .
The traction control light is on also.
 
  #230  
Old 02-08-2019, 10:15 PM
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Update: 2 local shops did not want to do a valve adjustment, so I had the dealer do it.
Everything seems fine after a week or so.

Thanks for all the replies in this and other threads.
 
  #231  
Old 02-14-2019, 09:36 AM
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Has anyone's gone into limp mode and then replaced coils with success? Compression test came back fine, also replaced the plugs. I had misfire codes for 3 cylinders, as well as a random misfire code and a running lean code. I'm desperately trying to just get this thing back to normal so I can trade the little bastard in. I've read about the valve adjustments but that kind of job is a little over my head, plus I can't afford to screw it up.
 
  #232  
Old 08-24-2019, 02:37 PM
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Been having same issues - hesitation at stop lights, especially with AC on, but really anytime sitting in drive and stopped. Doesn't do it if you put it in neutral whether AC on or off.

We've replaced the spark plugs (shop didn't tighten them down, nor was gap near correct NKG L series) and the ignition coils. It was ok for about a couple of weeks after coil replacements, but now it's doing it again. I just pulled plugs (how I found out they weren't tight/gapped properly) and coils, dropped gap to .42 per other posters suggestion.

Same thing - perhaps a touch not as severe but...... thoughts, folks??
 
  #233  
Old 08-24-2019, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Gallen570
Has anyone's gone into limp mode and then replaced coils with success? Compression test came back fine, also replaced the plugs. I had misfire codes for 3 cylinders, as well as a random misfire code and a running lean code. I'm desperately trying to just get this thing back to normal so I can trade the little bastard in. I've read about the valve adjustments but that kind of job is a little over my head, plus I can't afford to screw it up.
Originally Posted by Marcella Anne Darcey
Been having same issues - hesitation at stop lights, especially with AC on, but really anytime sitting in drive and stopped. Doesn't do it if you put it in neutral whether AC on or off.

We've replaced the spark plugs (shop didn't tighten them down, nor was gap near correct NKG L series) and the ignition coils. It was ok for about a couple of weeks after coil replacements, but now it's doing it again. I just pulled plugs (how I found out they weren't tight/gapped properly) and coils, dropped gap to .42 per other posters suggestion.

Same thing - perhaps a touch not as severe but...... thoughts, folks??
I'll offer the same advice to both of you...valve adjustments are called for about every 60k miles on the GD and every 90k on a GE by the maintenance minder system. Dealer and owners just hit reset without looking up the numbers and letters provided by the minder so few cars get the proper maintenance.

If your car is past those intervals, it's highly likely that the rough running is due to needing an adjustment.

Generally speaking, these motors run amazingly well for an amazing amount of miles provided they have iridium NGK or Denso plugs gapped properly, a good set of coils, and proper valve adjustments.
 
  #234  
Old 08-24-2019, 08:51 PM
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I'm the original owner on a 2008 Honda Fit Sport automatic. In the entire life of the car I have probably replaced each of the coil packs 1 or 2 times. However, I don't replace them all at the same time. Usually, by having just one bad coil pack, you'll get the sputter. It would be odd to have 4 bad coil packs at the same time.

Since I'm on a budget with car repairs, I don't just throw money at the problem. I buy 4 new quality plugs (if it's been a while) and one new coil pack. I just visually examine the plug and coil pack to find the one that is acting up. You can usually tell by discoloration or other oddities. The bad coil pack usually stands out from the good ones. So just switch out that one coil pack and see how it runs. This has worked for me. The last time I changed any coil pack was about 4 years ago. It's been running quite well despite have 212,000 miles on it.

I also switched over to using only premium gasoline which has been, I believe, a big factor in helping the car run well.

212,000 miles - The only repairs ever done on the vehicle are as followings not including new batteries and tires.
  • New coil packs and plugs on an as needed basis
  • New starter (installed a couple of weeks ago)
  • For the last 3 or 4 years my headlights seem to go out about once a year. This seems too often and I'm guessing there is some sort of electrical problem in the car causing this. I'm not sure what it is and I don't care too much either. I can replace the headlight in less than 10 minutes and be on my way. So it's not a major concern.
  • I have replaced the front brake pads about 4 times. Never replaced the rear.
  • Replaced a relay that went bad which caused the air conditioner to intermittently not work.
  • Recall work done a couple of times by the manufacturer which didn't cost us anything.
That's it! No factory recommended repairs have ever been made outside of the recall work.

The car has definitely given us our moneys worth and I plan on getting as much life out of it as possible. The fact that it runs well and blows cold air after 212,000 miles is pretty heartening.
 
  #235  
Old 09-02-2019, 05:34 PM
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My '07 was misfiring badly.

I replaced the plugs with Autolites - Little help. The Ec reported nothing until I floored it on the highway when it was misfiring and it reported a missfire in all cylinders. Trued to get Hitachi coils for $140/set, but received the wrong ones. Got the $45 set on Amazon overnight, and now the bitch is back.

There's a video on YouTube that shows how to disassemble and clean them. I had previously tried it, and found lots of oxidation on the contacts in the coil packs. Cleaned it up, and it didn't help. But a spark plug hole is a hard place for a coil and resistor with high voltage and current andcheezy spring contacts to live. The $45 coils were mechanically identical to the Hitachi, thou they claim the added some "improvement". I had to exchange in the old sparkplug mating end caps on the coils with the old ones to get the coils to seat. Runs flawlessly now, smooth with lots of power.
 
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