Hey guys got a problem with a 2007 Honda Sport.
I have searched the forums hear andthe symptoms seem to be similar to the coil pack issue but talking to the auto zone guys they pointed out a couple other things to take in to consideration

The vehicle
2007 HONDA FIT SPORT
L15A VTec 15 L I4
Just over 90,000 miles
Oil life at 90%
Transmission flush and fluid change 3 months ago

the issue
While driving the engine seems to stutter causing the whole car to shake can happen in rapid succession but the issue is usually one good jolt to the car per occurrence not a consistent shaking or raddling. Thisjolt does not happen exclusively while changing gears and also happens when stopped at lights or even in park. Also the jolt if big enough while the car is stopped at a light can kill the engine and will have to start the car all over again (radio still plays air still runs so I don't think it is electrical at all.)

Side Issue
Some times the fa. In the ac chooses not to function when the car starts and will not function for the duration that the car is on. Some times just restarting the car will trigger it some times it will be at a later ignition that it works again. This hasn't happened in a while.

Possible Causes
After searching the forum here the issue of a bad coil pack seemed like it may be the culprit. Then I read about the valve adjustment may solve an issue like this.
I mentioned this to the guys at auto zone and they said based on the type of engine I had it wasn't a valve issue. (Is that true?)
They said it could be a coil pack and added that it could also be a bad camshafts position sensor or a crankshafts position sensor.

So what do you guys think?
Where should I start?
And how can I find the issue the cheapest way possible?

Thanks!

 

Not true, it could be the valves.

What "type" of engine exactly were they talking about? There's nothing that special about the Fit's engine. Its valves require periodic adjustments, so this "type" of engine is actually the type that develops valve issues. Some cars have hydraulic lifters that don't need valve adjustments, but Hondas have solid valvetrains and solid lifters which need to be adjusted periodically.

I'd say start with the valves since you should get those checked/adjusted at right around 100k miles or earlier anyway. See if you still have problems after that, then go from there.

I know that a valve adjustment has solved the problem for several Fits, and I've read on here that others have had luck with coilpack replacements. But since you're due for a valve adjustment anyways, just start with that.

 

If one of the sensors they mentioned had gone bad, you would very likely already have a check engine light, which you would then scan with a OBDII scanner, which would explicitly state which sensors have gone bad. That's one good thing about computers and all these sensors nowadays.

However, no lights/sensors will indicate when the valve lashes are out of spec.

 

Is your car an automatic?

If so, tell us about that trans flush.


Is it possible a short in the torque converter lockup circuit is trying to engage the trans when it should not?

 

could be a spark plug or that thing that goes on it. forgot what it's called. it goes onto of the spark plug

 

this thing.

 

^ Those are old school. Fits and most new cars have coilpacks which the OP mentioned.

 

Lol oh. I have yet to see the engine.

 

bumping the thread because I have the exact same problem

engine stutter, i changed the coil pack on the cylinder which produced the misfire code (did not change the other 3). changed all the spark plugs, the stutter still stayed there.

However, today, I was at a full stop at a red light and the engine suddenly shut off. All the lights in the dashboard came up, everything else worked fine (headlights, radio, fan) but i just had to restart the car =\

please keep us updated, thanks!

 

Try the idle learn procedure (ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure)
I was having shuddering issues when the AT was engaged but the car was stopped on cold days, when the engine was cold. The re-learn procedure helped improve the problem (stills happens on super cold mornings) as well as increased my gas mileage. I think I still have a lurking sensor issue (possibly the MAP sensor: found here -> part number 17. http://www.hondapartseast.com/compon...old-e__03.html)

Although your issue does sound a little different than mine.

 

Possibly an issue with the MAF sensor or wiring loose? Tried starting mine up with it unplugged while changing the air filter. Motor NOT happy, would barely run at all. Plugged back in and fine again.

 

bump, was this ever fixed? happening to mine now too

 

It sounds like an intermittently failing sensor since the issue is not constant and occurs under different driving conditions.
With OBDII cars they do have a lot of various sensors to check. If all sensors are good, no codes have been thrown, and you don't know where else to look....
Then consider:

Monitor fuel pressure and run a dry/wet compression test. Check for spark too.

Just run through the three basics, air (and the compression of it), fuel, and spark.
Air: vacuum leaks can cause general poor performance and bad fuel econ. They can even cause misfires if it's bad enough.
Run a compression test. Testers are cheap and it's easy to perform a dry/wet test.
Fuel: pressure gauges aren't too pricey either and can tell you a lot about your car's fuel delivery.
Spark: Inspect the spark for all cylinders. If it's weak there is a problem. If it's not consistent there is a problem.

Once those are all good you can check for more obscure drivetrain hindrances like a locking torque converter, etc.

Good luck.