I need advice!
#1
I need advice!
My 2010 Fit ain't what she used to be.
She used to be perky and responsive and now when I push the gas pedal she groans and seems to work harder to get up to speed. It seems like it is noisier also (sounds like someone cutting down a tree with a chainsaw).
I already have 54000 miles on her and ALL I have done is change the oil.
Is it the timing?
Do I need to get a tune-up?
Change the trans fluid?
Should I take it only to a Honda dealer or can I be cheaper and take it somewhere else?
Thank you.
She used to be perky and responsive and now when I push the gas pedal she groans and seems to work harder to get up to speed. It seems like it is noisier also (sounds like someone cutting down a tree with a chainsaw).
I already have 54000 miles on her and ALL I have done is change the oil.
Is it the timing?
Do I need to get a tune-up?
Change the trans fluid?
Should I take it only to a Honda dealer or can I be cheaper and take it somewhere else?
Thank you.
#2
change the tranny fluid asap bro u will feel the diffrence get the new d1 from the dealer if urs is auto and also change ur air filter i knw there a diy sumwhere in this form ima at 5k right now on my fit im planing on changeing my tranny fluid at 13k mine 2012 auto sport
Last edited by Wafulz; 04-16-2012 at 04:34 PM.
#5
The service manual says every 100,000 miles or when the valves become noisy. I would do it at your earliest conveinence. Extreme clearance issues can cause engine damage. So while likely not a huge deal I would want to check it out in reasonable time. The only real downside is if you aren't doing it yourself it is kind of an expensive thing to have a shop do.
#6
My 2010 Fit ain't what she used to be.
She used to be perky and responsive and now when I push the gas pedal she groans and seems to work harder to get up to speed. It seems like it is noisier also (sounds like someone cutting down a tree with a chainsaw).
I already have 54000 miles on her and ALL I have done is change the oil.
Is it the timing?
Do I need to get a tune-up?
Change the trans fluid?
Should I take it only to a Honda dealer or can I be cheaper and take it somewhere else?
Thank you.
She used to be perky and responsive and now when I push the gas pedal she groans and seems to work harder to get up to speed. It seems like it is noisier also (sounds like someone cutting down a tree with a chainsaw).
I already have 54000 miles on her and ALL I have done is change the oil.
Is it the timing?
Do I need to get a tune-up?
Change the trans fluid?
Should I take it only to a Honda dealer or can I be cheaper and take it somewhere else?
Thank you.
#8
To any real mechanic, a "tune up" concerns only ignition and timing components. In general maintenance on a Fit, that means spark plugs only, since you can't change the timing and there is no distributor, rotor, points or condenser to be replaced. Someone who "babies" their Fit is going to require a valve adjustment at far greater mileage intervals than someone who drives it hard. The expression "tune up" no longer applies. The car needs specific things when it needs specific things concerning ignition and timing, no longer a set procedure involving routine replacment of mutiple ignition system parts.
Last edited by Triskelion; 04-17-2012 at 01:41 AM.
#12
So I took it into the dealership and I got the following service:
Oil & filter and tire rotation 30.00
replace trans fluid (3 qts ?) 84.00
replace air filter 34.00
new cabin filter 34.00
The car runs perkier now, so I am satisfied.
Oil & filter and tire rotation 30.00
replace trans fluid (3 qts ?) 84.00
replace air filter 34.00
new cabin filter 34.00
The car runs perkier now, so I am satisfied.
#15
my 2 cents
If you've purchased the fit do yourself a favor and buy the following (bernardiparts.com is good for this use fitfreak as the promo code for a minuscule but appreciated discount):
1) about 2 or 3 cabin air filters
2) about 2 or 3 wiper insert sets (front and back)
3) 4 air filters (or 1 k&n )
4) advanced owners : some wheel studs, 3 changes worth of atf (for the infamous 3x ATF fluid change for severe service) and brake fluid ...also some aftermarket rotors and pads for when the time comes....
this alone will save you enough bread over the course of the next 50-80k to cover your valve adjustment (usually $210 at a dealership)
it isnt a hard thing to do, but very involving for the fit, and so many parts get removed on the way to the valve cover that for the time it might be worth leaving it at the dealership...
also get ready to buy a new battery, mine died at the 3.5 year mark at the WORST possible time...
1) about 2 or 3 cabin air filters
2) about 2 or 3 wiper insert sets (front and back)
3) 4 air filters (or 1 k&n )
4) advanced owners : some wheel studs, 3 changes worth of atf (for the infamous 3x ATF fluid change for severe service) and brake fluid ...also some aftermarket rotors and pads for when the time comes....
this alone will save you enough bread over the course of the next 50-80k to cover your valve adjustment (usually $210 at a dealership)
it isnt a hard thing to do, but very involving for the fit, and so many parts get removed on the way to the valve cover that for the time it might be worth leaving it at the dealership...
also get ready to buy a new battery, mine died at the 3.5 year mark at the WORST possible time...
#16
This is good advice. Thanks for the link.
What I found weird was that when I talked to the dealership service adviser over the phone, he said I should be using 20 weight synthetic oil. He said regular oil gets too hot and burns up. Synthetic would cost about 60-70 bucks for a change.
But when I went to the dealership with my 30.00 oil change coupon the guy told me I would be getting a "house blend". I am going to open a new thread on this.
What I found weird was that when I talked to the dealership service adviser over the phone, he said I should be using 20 weight synthetic oil. He said regular oil gets too hot and burns up. Synthetic would cost about 60-70 bucks for a change.
But when I went to the dealership with my 30.00 oil change coupon the guy told me I would be getting a "house blend". I am going to open a new thread on this.
#17
This is good advice. Thanks for the link.
What I found weird was that when I talked to the dealership service adviser over the phone, he said I should be using 20 weight synthetic oil. He said regular oil gets too hot and burns up. Synthetic would cost about 60-70 bucks for a change.
But when I went to the dealership with my 30.00 oil change coupon the guy told me I would be getting a "house blend". I am going to open a new thread on this.
What I found weird was that when I talked to the dealership service adviser over the phone, he said I should be using 20 weight synthetic oil. He said regular oil gets too hot and burns up. Synthetic would cost about 60-70 bucks for a change.
But when I went to the dealership with my 30.00 oil change coupon the guy told me I would be getting a "house blend". I am going to open a new thread on this.
#18
Point me to a reason that this is routine maintenance.
A $15 torque wrench from Harbor Freight is all you need to keep those wheels on tight, with equal tension on each lug nut.
++++++++++++
Borderline, I'm glad your engine is running better. I'd side with the guys who recommended a valve adjustment. There are plenty of decent independent Honda repair shops that would do the job for less than the dealer.
#19
if you're going to do a valve adjustment, buy some spark plugs and have them replace them while everything is out of the way. Tight fit otherwise....
why did I recommend wheel studs? personal experience:
I pulled off my wheels when replacing my shocks and notice the studs they put in there arent the exact same length as my OEM ones.....one f the shops I went to in the past replaced 2 wheel studs that were messed up after some impact wrenching gone wrong....
figured from now on I'll keep a few extras in the trunk just in case.
why did I recommend wheel studs? personal experience:
I pulled off my wheels when replacing my shocks and notice the studs they put in there arent the exact same length as my OEM ones.....one f the shops I went to in the past replaced 2 wheel studs that were messed up after some impact wrenching gone wrong....
figured from now on I'll keep a few extras in the trunk just in case.
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