What to do if your axel falls out from the tranny
#1
06-24-2012, 12:05 AM
What to do if your axel falls out from the tranny
Long story short I attempted to lower my car, I was unsuccessful due to the strut bolt being on too tight on the passenger's side for me to get off. I got my driver's side strut all the way out only to mess around for 4 HOURS trying to get it back in because the axel popped out. So I figured I'd write this up and save you guys a huge headache, panic attack, and tons of time..
This was on an 2009 Honda Fit GE8. Should work for the previous model GD as well.
This procedure does require a friend to complete, but it shouldn't take more than 5 minutes.. You maybe able to do this solo, but I doubt it.
Here's the quickest way to get it back in:
1) DEFINITELY don't panic, you CAN EASILY get it back in..
2) Jack the other side of the car up and put it in a gear (1st gear is fine), no need to take the tire off from the passenger side either.
3) There is NO NEED to SLAM it back in, very little force is needed actually. I successfully popped it in and out on two separate occasions. I tried to slam it in for 4 hours, but that was worthless.
4) Optional but A LOT easier: Place a jack underneath your rotor and jack it up until it's almost parallel with the transmission. This saves you from having to hold the knuckle up while you complete the rest.
Mine fell out from the transmission side, look down the axel rod towards the engine and look for a white dot close to the boot, it's right near the groove (this was factory axel). This dot is actually part of a line that is painted on the rod and part of the boot to line it up just like you are about to do (that's my theory!).
Have a friend rotate the passenger front wheel until you see the white line on the boot end as well. YOUR ROTOR SHOULD NOT BE MOVING WHEN THE FRIEND IS TURNING HIS SIDE. Now, rotate the rotor until the white dots line up. If his wheel moves, purposely pull the knuckle out while you line up the dots. NOTE: If solo, reach your hand all the way up to the transmission, spin the axel yourself. Pull the knuckle out and spin the rotor until the white dots are lined up on the boot and the rod.
Push the top where the knuckle mounts to the bottom of the strut/shock, but you aren't in yet.. While pushing have your friend rotate the tire again to see if YOUR rotor spins. Does it spin? Your're lined up for entry. Recenter the white line (and dot) at the top of the rod.
Have your friend giggle back and forth the tire on the passenger's side while you push (doesn't have to be terribly hard actually) until it literally falls back into place. When it falls back in, you can definitely feel it fall about 2 1/2in back to the correct position. Fix the boot back to it's original location.
This should go without saying again, but if your rotor isn't spinning while your friend turns the passenger side tire AND the knuckle isn't perpendicular to the ground, you aren't back in.
Take a deep breath, drink a beer. It's in again and look to see if the rotor lines up perpendicular to the ground, it should.
Quoted from This thread
This thread and post was a HUGE help. Just wanted to elaborate on this point a little further. Thanks for the great help!
This was on an 2009 Honda Fit GE8. Should work for the previous model GD as well.
This procedure does require a friend to complete, but it shouldn't take more than 5 minutes.. You maybe able to do this solo, but I doubt it.
Here's the quickest way to get it back in:
1) DEFINITELY don't panic, you CAN EASILY get it back in..
2) Jack the other side of the car up and put it in a gear (1st gear is fine), no need to take the tire off from the passenger side either.
3) There is NO NEED to SLAM it back in, very little force is needed actually. I successfully popped it in and out on two separate occasions. I tried to slam it in for 4 hours, but that was worthless.
4) Optional but A LOT easier: Place a jack underneath your rotor and jack it up until it's almost parallel with the transmission. This saves you from having to hold the knuckle up while you complete the rest.
Mine fell out from the transmission side, look down the axel rod towards the engine and look for a white dot close to the boot, it's right near the groove (this was factory axel). This dot is actually part of a line that is painted on the rod and part of the boot to line it up just like you are about to do (that's my theory!).
Have a friend rotate the passenger front wheel until you see the white line on the boot end as well. YOUR ROTOR SHOULD NOT BE MOVING WHEN THE FRIEND IS TURNING HIS SIDE. Now, rotate the rotor until the white dots line up. If his wheel moves, purposely pull the knuckle out while you line up the dots. NOTE: If solo, reach your hand all the way up to the transmission, spin the axel yourself. Pull the knuckle out and spin the rotor until the white dots are lined up on the boot and the rod.
Push the top where the knuckle mounts to the bottom of the strut/shock, but you aren't in yet.. While pushing have your friend rotate the tire again to see if YOUR rotor spins. Does it spin? Your're lined up for entry. Recenter the white line (and dot) at the top of the rod.
Have your friend giggle back and forth the tire on the passenger's side while you push (doesn't have to be terribly hard actually) until it literally falls back into place. When it falls back in, you can definitely feel it fall about 2 1/2in back to the correct position. Fix the boot back to it's original location.
This should go without saying again, but if your rotor isn't spinning while your friend turns the passenger side tire AND the knuckle isn't perpendicular to the ground, you aren't back in.
Take a deep breath, drink a beer. It's in again and look to see if the rotor lines up perpendicular to the ground, it should.
Quoted from This thread
#1 DO NOT PANIC, IT IS NOT THE END OF THE WORLD! YOU CAN DO IT!
I know it is tight in there, but.....
The transmission end of the axle is now sitting inside the axle boot, so with one hand slightly lift up the shaft while with the other push in and rotate hub up to 120 degrees. Why 120? Because it is a three prong joint inside. Do not use hammers or hard force to push it in because you can damage 3 bearings that are at the end of each prong of the joint.
Do this with car in 1st gear or reverse on manual, or park if it is auto.
Be patient! If you have a friend supporting the shaft you can use both hands to slowly turn the hub and apply pressure to pop it back in.
Patience is the key!
Once it pops back in, you will notice that popping out of the shaft moved the small end of the booth (closest to transmission) out of it's grove on the shaft. You need to pull it back in the grove. If you do not, joint might cut the boot from the inside and eventually split the booth!'
Lubricate the shaft from the booth to the grove with grease, WD-40 or even engine oil! With thick gloves on (not rubber gloves, but construction or "Mechanix" bury your fingers just behind the clamp and pull toward the groove (toward yourself). It is hard, but it can be done. Reason I am advising heavy gloves is so you do not make a cut on the booth with your nails! Even a smallest scar can cause premature tear of the booth. I know you will be tempted, but do not use use any kind of pliers and a rag to do it! Pliers are sharp and will find a way to damage the booth! Murphy's law!
I popped it out myself when I was changing my springs! Fortunately years of working as mechanic as a teenager and replacing ton of axle booths paid off! Beside my Fit I also changed springs on Tool's Fit. On his with use of straps axle never popped out!
Tip for the prevention: instead of jack stands or jacks supporting the hub, use rubber cargo straps with metal hooks at each end! Run it in between studs on the hub and sub frame. The amount of stretch strap gives you is enough to swing the damper out without popping axle out! On left side turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, on the right side all the way to the right. It will give you more clearance to slide damper out of the hub support sideways without having to move hub too far out and pop the axle out!
Also, cover the rubber booth just below the damper with a thick rag or plastic! Some of you might get caught by the weight of the damper and spring assembly due to arm fatigue from getting to that point. Damper can easily slide down and cut the booth before you can even blink! It happens even to most experienced mechanics. It takes just a small attention span lapse to occur! That good deal on spring price can get very expensive if you tear the booth and have to replace it!
Good luck! Be patient and you can do it no problem!
Ivan
I know it is tight in there, but.....
The transmission end of the axle is now sitting inside the axle boot, so with one hand slightly lift up the shaft while with the other push in and rotate hub up to 120 degrees. Why 120? Because it is a three prong joint inside. Do not use hammers or hard force to push it in because you can damage 3 bearings that are at the end of each prong of the joint.
Do this with car in 1st gear or reverse on manual, or park if it is auto.
Be patient! If you have a friend supporting the shaft you can use both hands to slowly turn the hub and apply pressure to pop it back in.
Patience is the key!
Once it pops back in, you will notice that popping out of the shaft moved the small end of the booth (closest to transmission) out of it's grove on the shaft. You need to pull it back in the grove. If you do not, joint might cut the boot from the inside and eventually split the booth!'
Lubricate the shaft from the booth to the grove with grease, WD-40 or even engine oil! With thick gloves on (not rubber gloves, but construction or "Mechanix" bury your fingers just behind the clamp and pull toward the groove (toward yourself). It is hard, but it can be done. Reason I am advising heavy gloves is so you do not make a cut on the booth with your nails! Even a smallest scar can cause premature tear of the booth. I know you will be tempted, but do not use use any kind of pliers and a rag to do it! Pliers are sharp and will find a way to damage the booth! Murphy's law!
I popped it out myself when I was changing my springs! Fortunately years of working as mechanic as a teenager and replacing ton of axle booths paid off! Beside my Fit I also changed springs on Tool's Fit. On his with use of straps axle never popped out!
Tip for the prevention: instead of jack stands or jacks supporting the hub, use rubber cargo straps with metal hooks at each end! Run it in between studs on the hub and sub frame. The amount of stretch strap gives you is enough to swing the damper out without popping axle out! On left side turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, on the right side all the way to the right. It will give you more clearance to slide damper out of the hub support sideways without having to move hub too far out and pop the axle out!
Also, cover the rubber booth just below the damper with a thick rag or plastic! Some of you might get caught by the weight of the damper and spring assembly due to arm fatigue from getting to that point. Damper can easily slide down and cut the booth before you can even blink! It happens even to most experienced mechanics. It takes just a small attention span lapse to occur! That good deal on spring price can get very expensive if you tear the booth and have to replace it!
Good luck! Be patient and you can do it no problem!
Ivan
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