Yup, mine felt "grindier."

 

Is this still a thing? I wish I could've gotten the ones from ITEM9...but hes vanished...

I miss the way my 99 civic hatch's clutch felt and if deleting the CDV will get me close that would be awesome!

 

I just installed 46920-S5A-G05 last night on my GE8. Seemed like a pretty direct swap.

 

Hmmm Then this seems to be on my list of to-do projects for the GE8. Seems pretty straight forward with minimal bending of lines.

How long did it take you arrow_runner?

The DIY is pretty good and informative.

 

I'd say 2+ hours? I took a couple breaks so it's hard to say. I would advise in taking the drivers side seat out while you do this so you can lay on your back and work. I didn't and it SUCKED.

Oh I don't remember if the guide says to, but I would loosen the top 2 nuts holding the clutch pedal assembly. It'll help you guide in the new cmc.

I also have my battery relocated to the rear and an aftermarket intake that wasn't much in the way so that helped.

 

Also very beneficial to take the wiper cowl and the metal plate beneath it off, just like you would do to change the spark plugs.

 

I have an Injen intake so the OEM box is gone. seems like removing the battery and moving the Injen will be all thats needed in the engine bay. Just amazing how they crammed so much in the little engine bay. So spoiled with my former 99 ek hatch and all the room in the world lol.

 

Here's a picture of the Civic CMC 46920-S5A-G07. Note that it's at G07 now. Looks like a drop-in replacement to me, even the pin. Will find out later. Btw, 10mm flare nut wrench is what you want.

 

 

Your lucky day, I have the entire Clutch Delay Valve Delete Kit for you!
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...elete-kit.html

 

Reviving older thread; sorry if we're not into that here.

I went through all the trouble to remove my CMC and I was going to go as far as drilling out the discharge to bypass the dampening chamber (I saw this is what Brian at VTec Academy did on his recent K swap FIT CMC) to see what that did for clutch feel.

I get the little bugger out and pump out the NASTY old fluid and pop off the face plate of the dampening chamber. I am not met with what I've seen in photos online where there're two little holes. My CMC looks like one modified by ITEM9 back in the day except it looks like it was made that way from the start; not a spec of fluid in there.

Were there GE8 FITs that did not have the CDV or is there some other mechanism by which the release is delayed? My car is a 2012 Sport model.

I'm hesitant to waste money on a Civic part if my clutch is unimpeded by a dampener but I'm not sure if there's more going on in there...

 

I'm not familiar with ITEM9, what did they do back in the day? As far as I know every Fit has a delay valve from the factory. Are you the original owner? Maybe someone beat you to it.

 

ITEM9 is a forum member who was selling modified CMCs (earlier responses in this thread shows pictures). I'm not the original owner but the part looks unmodified and the amount of dirt and grime makes me think previous owners were not the types to think about this stuff lol.

 

I found this easier to do by removing the entire clutch hydraulic system from the car, blowing through the lines with compressed air, mounting the new clutch master cylinder to the lines off the car, and bleeding the entire system off the car, then mounting the whole assembly at once. The flexible line, seen in the pics, has enough "give" in it, to allow removal and mounting of this entire assembly at one time, with some patience and careful maneuvering.

Duralast Clutch Master Cylinder 51410 | AutoZone

I did it. works beautifully. I'd recommend for anyone who does this, get flexible stainless braided fluid lines for this, since the non-OEM master cylinder has a slightly altered starting angle for fluid line connection, making the OEM hard line sit in a different place at the bracket which connects to the frame rail. I just manhandled mine into place, but I would not recommend this. I'm sure it is putting constant stress on the connection at the master cylinder. For anyone who hasn't ditched your OEM Clutch Delay Valve setup, DO IT. The difference is night and day. That, and a manual transmission fluid change, makes it feel like a real car.

This model has the same bolt spacing, the same bolt length, the same cylinder diameter as OEM. The only difference is the slightly different angle that the hard OEM clutch hydraulic line bolts on, when it is installed. It is still workable.

pic of the Duralast 51410 CMC

I removed the entire hydraulic assembly, then blew through all lines with compressed air, then mounted the new CMC. See next pic for bleeding.

Poor and blurry pic. I bled the whole system off the car, like this. The brake fluid fill container you see in the left side of this pic was used to fill the master cylinder reservoir, by propping it up inside the reservoir using one of those white clips. This kept it full while I bled it using a hand brake bleeder pump. Then I installed the whole assembly in the car, used hand bleeder pump two more times at slave cylinder, perfect.