Misfire Problem SOLVED
Turned 175,000 miles today, no misfire, original coil packs. And I have found that Denso Iridium TT plugs make it the smoothest running vehicle I have ever had. And I DO keep my valves adjusted properly. Lucky, I guess.
Cylinder 4 misfire problem
My 2007 Honda Fit is at 75,000 miles and engine light came on,and engine is misfiring. Took it to my local mechanic several times, they replaced the spark plugs and coil pack #4. Also did some work with the fuel injector (Cyl 4) and the valve lash, adjusted rocker arm and valves. This still did not resolve the problem. I took it to the Honda dealer and they want to replace the other 3 coil packs and put in Honda spark plugs. This is going to cost $1000. They also said they should adjust and clean the valves for another $500 (unless I can verify my local mechanic did this). Should I have this done at the dealer? Why do they need to use Honda spark plugs when I already have 4 new spark plugs? (The spark plug job alone is $411 at the dealer). I am wondering if I should pay the dealer to do all this work or bring it back to my local mechanic and ask him to replace the other 3 coil packs. Any advice would be appreciated.
I would not bring it to the dealer for THOSE prices.
Instead you need to see if your independent mechanic used the 'correct' parts.
Examples:
You should use Denso Iridium spark plugs. Other plugs will not last and will cause misfires.
Same with coil packs. The mechanic should use the Hitachi brand coils (part number ending in 053), cheap ones will still misfire, and if one coil misfires the others are usually not far behind in causing more misfires.
++++++++
It does not sound as if your mechanic is 'up to speed' in experience with Honda Fits. If he is using cheaper 3rd-party parts from autoparts stores he is prolonging your misery. Hopefully you can find a local Honda SPECIALIST to maintain your Fit at a LOT less than those exorbitant Dealer prices! (Look for a lot full of Hondas) We also hope he has properly adjusted your valves (we did ours every 50,000 miles).
The parts you need to replace cost about $250 from RockAuto.com, a national parts house. Add in 1 to 2 hours labor cost if you don't do the work yourself.
Instead you need to see if your independent mechanic used the 'correct' parts.
Examples:
You should use Denso Iridium spark plugs. Other plugs will not last and will cause misfires.
Same with coil packs. The mechanic should use the Hitachi brand coils (part number ending in 053), cheap ones will still misfire, and if one coil misfires the others are usually not far behind in causing more misfires.
++++++++
It does not sound as if your mechanic is 'up to speed' in experience with Honda Fits. If he is using cheaper 3rd-party parts from autoparts stores he is prolonging your misery. Hopefully you can find a local Honda SPECIALIST to maintain your Fit at a LOT less than those exorbitant Dealer prices! (Look for a lot full of Hondas) We also hope he has properly adjusted your valves (we did ours every 50,000 miles).
The parts you need to replace cost about $250 from RockAuto.com, a national parts house. Add in 1 to 2 hours labor cost if you don't do the work yourself.
Misfiring 306,000 km
Car began misfiring yesterday coming back from long road trip (nearly 5,000 km driven in just a week). Car had oil change and check up just before trip. More than 306,000 km on 2008 Fit we bought new. 5 speed manual. Some rust on it and done some minor repairs to body, but certainly an amateur job. Never needed exhaust work in all the time we’ve owned it. This is our backup car as we also have a 2016 Honda HRV. Wondering what costs I’m looking at and whether it’s worthwhile. Base model. Never equipped with ac. Only power item is the windows. Any thoughts?
Car began misfiring yesterday coming back from long road trip (nearly 5,000 km driven in just a week). Car had oil change and check up just before trip. More than 306,000 km on 2008 Fit we bought new. 5 speed manual. Some rust on it and done some minor repairs to body, but certainly an amateur job. Never needed exhaust work in all the time we’ve owned it. This is our backup car as we also have a 2016 Honda HRV. Wondering what costs I’m looking at and whether it’s worthwhile. Base model. Never equipped with ac. Only power item is the windows. Any thoughts?
Probably the coil packs. Look on Google to see what their resistance should be but if it's hesitating and sometimes coughing, probably coil packs. I replaced mine with Hitachi who I heard somewhere was the Corp that made the genuine honda parts.
Kind regards
Chris
Last edited by Chris Nicola; Nov 21, 2022 at 10:46 AM.
I was one of the first Fit purchasers in the US. Purchased an '07 Sport Fit in September '06. I'm a 5-speed driver, so misfires are a REAL drag when banging through the gears.
The misfire started at about 80K miles. The car now has 125K miles. To say I'm sick of this problem is the understatement of the decade. I took it to two Honda dealerships a total of five times. I even took this issue up with American Honda Motor Company. Seems no one at Honda has any clue how to fix this problem when no error code is thrown.
Here's the deal, the first generation Fits are prone to this problem. The coil packs fail at around 75K miles. This is well documented in many Internet forums. When your first gen Fit develops the misfire - and it will - don't fiddle around. Replace all four coil packs. And DO NOT buy then from your Honda dealer. You'll get reamed on the price. Order four (4) Denso OEM coil pack units from partsgeekDOTcom. They're $65 each there.
I replaced all four coil packs today. And just for fun, I test drove it after each unit was replaced. Each replaced unit produced slight improvement. But apparently the #4 cylinder coil pack was the weakest one of the bunch, because when that one was replaced the misfires went away entirely. Even my 15 year old son who isn't a car nut like his dad was able to feel the increased power and smoothness during his evening driving lesson tonight. He also noticed that the K&N Typhoon intake system is quite a bit noisier when the engine is revving with no hesitation.
Got a misfire in your first gen Fit? Replace the coil packs and thank this forum when you do.
The misfire started at about 80K miles. The car now has 125K miles. To say I'm sick of this problem is the understatement of the decade. I took it to two Honda dealerships a total of five times. I even took this issue up with American Honda Motor Company. Seems no one at Honda has any clue how to fix this problem when no error code is thrown.
Here's the deal, the first generation Fits are prone to this problem. The coil packs fail at around 75K miles. This is well documented in many Internet forums. When your first gen Fit develops the misfire - and it will - don't fiddle around. Replace all four coil packs. And DO NOT buy then from your Honda dealer. You'll get reamed on the price. Order four (4) Denso OEM coil pack units from partsgeekDOTcom. They're $65 each there.
I replaced all four coil packs today. And just for fun, I test drove it after each unit was replaced. Each replaced unit produced slight improvement. But apparently the #4 cylinder coil pack was the weakest one of the bunch, because when that one was replaced the misfires went away entirely. Even my 15 year old son who isn't a car nut like his dad was able to feel the increased power and smoothness during his evening driving lesson tonight. He also noticed that the K&N Typhoon intake system is quite a bit noisier when the engine is revving with no hesitation.
Got a misfire in your first gen Fit? Replace the coil packs and thank this forum when you do.
I had read in here somewhere that Hitachi made the coils for the first gen fit, I got those and have been good for 60k miles
I have a 2008 Honda Fit Sport, manual transmission. It has ran great since I got it at 80k miles. It currently has 128,000 miles and has started having misfire issues. The first codes were misfire on cylinder 1, 2, and 4, as well as an upstream o2 sensor fault. I replaced the upstream o2 sensor, reset the codes and ran it again. Now it's only misfiring on cylinder 2. I inspected all the spark plugs, cylinder 2 spark plug was black, indicating that the car is running rich on cylinder 2, the other spark plugs looked fine. I replaced all the spark plugs (NGK) and replaced all the coil packs (Hitachi). The car gained a little power, but it is still misfiring on cylinder 2. My next thought was to do a valve adjustment.
I'm not a professional mechanic, but with enough research I got the gist on how to do a valve adjustment. When doing the valve adjustment, a handful of the valve gaps were too tight, but none of them were too loose. I adjusted all the valves and put it back together.
Now, the cars idle sounds a little smoother, but it is still misfiring on cylinder 2. Somethings I have noticed: When the car is cold, it seems to run better, doesn't misfire as bad, and the engine light doesn't come on. Once the car has warmed up, the check engine light comes on and the misfires become very apparent. I have also tried disconnecting the battery for an extended period of time after resetting the codes, and trying it again, no luck.
Banging my head against the wall with this thing, my next thought is to check fuel pressure for an issue on the injector perhaps? Or maybe an issue with the MAP/MAF sensor? I am open to any advice.
I'm not a professional mechanic, but with enough research I got the gist on how to do a valve adjustment. When doing the valve adjustment, a handful of the valve gaps were too tight, but none of them were too loose. I adjusted all the valves and put it back together.
Now, the cars idle sounds a little smoother, but it is still misfiring on cylinder 2. Somethings I have noticed: When the car is cold, it seems to run better, doesn't misfire as bad, and the engine light doesn't come on. Once the car has warmed up, the check engine light comes on and the misfires become very apparent. I have also tried disconnecting the battery for an extended period of time after resetting the codes, and trying it again, no luck.
Banging my head against the wall with this thing, my next thought is to check fuel pressure for an issue on the injector perhaps? Or maybe an issue with the MAP/MAF sensor? I am open to any advice.
I have a 2008 Honda Fit Sport, manual transmission. It has ran great since I got it at 80k miles. It currently has 128,000 miles and has started having misfire issues. The first codes were misfire on cylinder 1, 2, and 4, as well as an upstream o2 sensor fault
Banging my head against the wall with this thing, my next thought is to check fuel pressure for an issue on the injector perhaps? Or maybe an issue with the MAP/MAF sensor? I am open to any advice.
Banging my head against the wall with this thing, my next thought is to check fuel pressure for an issue on the injector perhaps? Or maybe an issue with the MAP/MAF sensor? I am open to any advice.
If you have torque app maybe poke around all the live data and see where 2 differs from the others.... don't know what swapping fuel injectors entails but maybe swap 2 and 3 and see if the issue moves to 3? Shot it the dark...
It does seems like a sensor though given that the issue is only when warm and presumably when it's using the sensors rather than a table. Hopeful. That means the motor itself isn't damaged.
Good luck, don't know if I helped any but at very least it's a bump.
Def beyond my skill, but from what I do know you did all the stuff that made sense to do... my guess is the map sensor wouldn't be it because I would guess it would misfire all of them not just #2.
If you have torque app maybe poke around all the live data and see where 2 differs from the others.... don't know what swapping fuel injectors entails but maybe swap 2 and 3 and see if the issue moves to 3? Shot it the dark...
It does seems like a sensor though given that the issue is only when warm and presumably when it's using the sensors rather than a table. Hopeful. That means the motor itself isn't damaged.
Good luck, don't know if I helped any but at very least it's a bump.
If you have torque app maybe poke around all the live data and see where 2 differs from the others.... don't know what swapping fuel injectors entails but maybe swap 2 and 3 and see if the issue moves to 3? Shot it the dark...
It does seems like a sensor though given that the issue is only when warm and presumably when it's using the sensors rather than a table. Hopeful. That means the motor itself isn't damaged.
Good luck, don't know if I helped any but at very least it's a bump.
UPDATE: I unplugged the MAP sensor and ran it to see if it continued to misfire while running on table instead of the MAP sensor, the only code it threw was for the MAP sensor being unplugged, but it was still misfiring and running rough. Next move might be to throw a new injector in #2 cylinder.
P0303 code but with clank/bang noise?
My 2011 fit started flashing the engine light with the P0303 code and the rpms were then very limited. Mostly it wasn't able to idle much higher, and the car was creeping along in what I guess is "limp mode". I was however eventually able to start revving it up higher and then a banging noise started occurring in the engine top end, I believe left side. After that the engine wouldn't rev high enough to cause any of that noise. Does this sound like anything specific to any of ya'll?
P0303 code
I also had the P0303 code on my daughters 2009 Fit with 140000km on it. I traced it down to a faulty ignition coil by swapping #2 and #3 coils. I noticed alot of sooty residue on the boots for #2 and #3 plugs. I read that the spark plugs were known to back themselves out so I checked them and #2 and #3 could be removed with just my fingers. I figure maybe there was some blow by and maybe that fried #3 coil pack.
I was going to just replace #2 and #3 coils due to the loosened plugs. The old lady previous owner had always had the dealer perform maintenance and I asked them for the records and the plugs or coils have never been done, so I decided on doing all 4 coils and plugs. Our local NAPA was asking $175 CDN each. For the hell of it I asked at the dealership and they wanted $310 CDN each!!! To hell with that. I hit up rockauto got 4 NGK coils (55.71 CDN ea) and NGK plugs (3.89 CDN ea). Everything done for less than one coil from the dealer.
I did ask the dealer for the proper spark plug torque as there seems to be some debate. They were good enough to look it up in the service manual and it does say 20 ft/lbs. using a bit of anti seize.
I was going to just replace #2 and #3 coils due to the loosened plugs. The old lady previous owner had always had the dealer perform maintenance and I asked them for the records and the plugs or coils have never been done, so I decided on doing all 4 coils and plugs. Our local NAPA was asking $175 CDN each. For the hell of it I asked at the dealership and they wanted $310 CDN each!!! To hell with that. I hit up rockauto got 4 NGK coils (55.71 CDN ea) and NGK plugs (3.89 CDN ea). Everything done for less than one coil from the dealer.
I did ask the dealer for the proper spark plug torque as there seems to be some debate. They were good enough to look it up in the service manual and it does say 20 ft/lbs. using a bit of anti seize.
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