spark plugs
#21
plug help
i have a 1339cc FIT. what plugs do you recommend? on the performance side...
Last edited by akrams; 02-03-2007 at 04:22 AM.
#22
OK for you new guys here is the difference between standard and one step colder spark plugs.
If you look closely you can see the threaded part of the standard plug is LONGER and that means the heat absorbed by the plug tip has to travel further (from the tip to the body) than the shorter tipped colder plug. And the longer travel means the heat stays in the plug tip longer keeping it hotter.
The advantage of colder plugs is that as the tip is cooler and this helps prevent detonation. This MAY be necessary because if you have made some mods to your engine you MAY be getting higher combustion temperatures which bring you closer to detonation and a colder tip plug helps prevent it.
If you look closely you can see the threaded part of the standard plug is LONGER and that means the heat absorbed by the plug tip has to travel further (from the tip to the body) than the shorter tipped colder plug. And the longer travel means the heat stays in the plug tip longer keeping it hotter.
The advantage of colder plugs is that as the tip is cooler and this helps prevent detonation. This MAY be necessary because if you have made some mods to your engine you MAY be getting higher combustion temperatures which bring you closer to detonation and a colder tip plug helps prevent it.
#23
A spark plug is said to be "hot" if it is a better heat insulator, keeping more heat in the tip of the spark plug. A spark plug is said to be "cold" if it can conduct more heat out of the spark plug tip and lower the tip's temperature. Whether a spark plug is "hot" or "cold" is known as the heat range of the spark plug. The heat range of a spark plug is typically specified as a number, with some manufacturers using ascending numbers for hotter plugs and others doing the opposite, using descending numbers for hotter plugs.
The heat range of a spark plug (i.e. in scientific terms its thermal conductivity characteristics) is affected by the construction of the spark plug: the types of materials used, the length of insulator and the surface area of the plug exposed within the combustion chamber. For normal use, the selection of a spark plug heat range is a balance between keeping the tip hot enough at idle to prevent fouling and cold enough at maximum power to prevent pre-ignition leading to engine knocking. By examining "hotter" and "cooler" spark plugs of the same manufacturer side by side, the principle involved can be very clearly seen; the cooler plugs have more substantial ceramic insulators filling the gap between the center electrode and the shell, effectively carrying off the heat, while the hotter plugs have less ceramic material, so that the tip is more isolated from the body of the plug and retains heat better.
ninjaed from wikipedia...
The heat range of a spark plug (i.e. in scientific terms its thermal conductivity characteristics) is affected by the construction of the spark plug: the types of materials used, the length of insulator and the surface area of the plug exposed within the combustion chamber. For normal use, the selection of a spark plug heat range is a balance between keeping the tip hot enough at idle to prevent fouling and cold enough at maximum power to prevent pre-ignition leading to engine knocking. By examining "hotter" and "cooler" spark plugs of the same manufacturer side by side, the principle involved can be very clearly seen; the cooler plugs have more substantial ceramic insulators filling the gap between the center electrode and the shell, effectively carrying off the heat, while the hotter plugs have less ceramic material, so that the tip is more isolated from the body of the plug and retains heat better.
ninjaed from wikipedia...
#24
i was making a point about the reach, i just ordered 8 BKR7E's only to find out they are NOT the right plug reach. Claymore, how long have you been using these plugs and how do they perform for you? i just skeptical about changing the reach of the plug but i do want step colder plugs.
#25
First of all my information is and was CORRECT. The plugs you need have to include the reach number, the CORRECT plugs are NGK # BKR7E-11. I never said anything about changing REACH. Reach is different than heat range. To try and learn more see:
Frequently Asked Questions
Like said I have been running 7s for the past 7,000 km with no problems work just fine. I suggest you read the post before making dumb comments
Frequently Asked Questions
Like said I have been running 7s for the past 7,000 km with no problems work just fine. I suggest you read the post before making dumb comments
here is what you SAID
Originally Posted by claymore
OK for you new guys here is the difference between standard and one step colder spark plugs.
If you look closely you can see the threaded part of the standard plug is LONGER and that means the heat absorbed by the plug tip has to travel further (from the tip to the body) than the shorter tipped colder plug. And the longer travel means the heat stays in the plug tip longer keeping it hotter.
Last edited by 805FitSport; 02-16-2007 at 04:47 PM.
#26
so you would need a BKR7E-13 which does not exist i believe.
#27
WTF, where was i saying that the 13 had anything to do with the heat range, i was telling you that your info IS WRONG in regards to your picture saying that a shorter thread on the plug means its colder... you keep lashing out at me with crap i already know, so keep running your 17 sec 1/4 miles with all your useless getto mods ok clayboy.
durka dur...
durka dur...
#28
"i suggest you stop giving retarded info, look in the picture, you state that because the reach is shorter you are claiming they are colder, the correct plugs are NOT 11 for reach but 13." quote from post #32 by 805fitsport
You can't even remember what you have already said...... and the funny little numbers 11 & 13 are for GAP NOT REACH. Which you would know if you read the FAQs.
If you know so much why did you feel the need to start this post in the first place with the question "what is a one step colder plug???
Your still not getting it the length of the threads or "Reach" (the plugs shown in the photo have the exact SAME reach) HAS NOTHING to do with heat range it's the length of the part PAST THE THREADS.
And 17 flat is pretty good for no power adder mods beside a K&N filter and $5.00 DIY CAI thank you
You can't even remember what you have already said...... and the funny little numbers 11 & 13 are for GAP NOT REACH. Which you would know if you read the FAQs.
If you know so much why did you feel the need to start this post in the first place with the question "what is a one step colder plug???
Your still not getting it the length of the threads or "Reach" (the plugs shown in the photo have the exact SAME reach) HAS NOTHING to do with heat range it's the length of the part PAST THE THREADS.
And 17 flat is pretty good for no power adder mods beside a K&N filter and $5.00 DIY CAI thank you
#29
It is HIGHLY unlikely that a bolt-on modded Fit will reach high combustion temps enough to cause predetonation and knock/ping and call for colder plugs.
I/H/E is not going to do any of that. so stick with stock rated plugs, colder plugs will not be beneficial to any sort. If you're worried about detonation, then just use higher octane fuel (which may decrease performance and efficiency of your car). but i doubt that will be necessary.
When you go F/I, thats where colder plugs come into play, but stock ones will still be able to suffice.
I/H/E is not going to do any of that. so stick with stock rated plugs, colder plugs will not be beneficial to any sort. If you're worried about detonation, then just use higher octane fuel (which may decrease performance and efficiency of your car). but i doubt that will be necessary.
When you go F/I, thats where colder plugs come into play, but stock ones will still be able to suffice.
#30
i believe 805 is runnin n20 so thats his need for a step colder.
#31
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