Brake fluid flush/change
#1
Brake fluid flush/change
Hi everyone I tried searching on the forum for this but couldn't find anything.
what's the best way on changing 06 auto jazz brake fluid? Can I just pull the ABS relay and fuse then suck up some of the fluid from the reservoir then add new fluid and start bleeding whilst keeping the reservoir topped up to avoid air going in? and maybe referring to the below video?
what's the best way on changing 06 auto jazz brake fluid? Can I just pull the ABS relay and fuse then suck up some of the fluid from the reservoir then add new fluid and start bleeding whilst keeping the reservoir topped up to avoid air going in? and maybe referring to the below video?
#2
I've never needed to pull the ABS relay when doing routine BF replacement. Long as you don't introduce air into the system, you are good to go.
If you have replaced a master cylinder, that's different. But, even calipers or slave cylinder replacements (our USA Fits have rear drum brakes) do not introduce air into the ABS pump so it's not an issue.
...suck up some of the fluid from the reservoir then add new fluid and start bleeding whilst keeping the reservoir topped up to avoid air going in?
#4
my jazz has rear drums too. I find Pads are easier to change then shoes.
Alright so I'll leave relays and fuses in place. Do you think following eric the car guys' video is fine to do? he puts new fluid in after sucking some of the old out then in the bleeding bottle he has new fluid in it too so when releasing the brake pedal fluid goes back up the tube instead of air and by bleeding the brake closest to the cylinder so the old fluid isn't travelling all the way through to the back drums.
Alright so I'll leave relays and fuses in place. Do you think following eric the car guys' video is fine to do? he puts new fluid in after sucking some of the old out then in the bleeding bottle he has new fluid in it too so when releasing the brake pedal fluid goes back up the tube instead of air and by bleeding the brake closest to the cylinder so the old fluid isn't travelling all the way through to the back drums.
#5
Eric's method is fine. Long as you get all the old fluid out the car will be happy. I use two 12 oz. bottles of BF when I flush the brake system. (Don't forget the clutch fluid if you have a manual)
Some folks believe that you should place a stopper (piece of wood or plastic) under the brake pedal when pumping. That way the master cylinder seals do not wipe an 'un-travelled' area (where they don't normally go). So, you are less likely to wear the seals and cause an early failure.
Some folks believe that you should place a stopper (piece of wood or plastic) under the brake pedal when pumping. That way the master cylinder seals do not wipe an 'un-travelled' area (where they don't normally go). So, you are less likely to wear the seals and cause an early failure.
#6
Eric's method is fine. Long as you get all the old fluid out the car will be happy. I use two 12 oz. bottles of BF when I flush the brake system. (Don't forget the clutch fluid if you have a manual)
Some folks believe that you should place a stopper (piece of wood or plastic) under the brake pedal when pumping. That way the master cylinder seals do not wipe an 'un-travelled' area (where they don't normally go). So, you are less likely to wear the seals and cause an early failure.
Some folks believe that you should place a stopper (piece of wood or plastic) under the brake pedal when pumping. That way the master cylinder seals do not wipe an 'un-travelled' area (where they don't normally go). So, you are less likely to wear the seals and cause an early failure.
yeah I was going to buy 2 500ml bottles of castrol they are $9 a bottle and a bleeding kit is $8 which is just a bottle with tubes and extensions for different size valves on the brakes and doesn't allow air to go back up into the brake line when the brake pedal is depressed.
When you say under the pedal that's just to stop you from pushing the pedal to far down right? I could just gently push the pedal down just half way instead?
#8
Yes, you could do the pedal halfway thing. Les travel = more pumps to get all the fluid exchanged.
Usually, I have an inexperienced helper doing the pedal pumping, so the pedal stopper provides extra piece of mind.
Usually, I have an inexperienced helper doing the pedal pumping, so the pedal stopper provides extra piece of mind.
#9
haha that's true I just pumped the pedal half way, better to be safe then sorry but yes it did go a little slower. I bought a one man brake bleeder and 2-500ml castrol brake fluid dot 4 I didn't bother sucking some of the old stuff out couldn't anyway because the little strainer filter.
I really didn't expect much difference in the fluid condition but hey! there was and some air got pushed out along with small particles, on the driver side I had a fair bit of black particles come out for a second.
All is good now I have nearly a full bottle of brake fluid left over I always put the lid back on after topping up would it be right to keep it or will it be contaminated by the time the next change comes around?
I really didn't expect much difference in the fluid condition but hey! there was and some air got pushed out along with small particles, on the driver side I had a fair bit of black particles come out for a second.
All is good now I have nearly a full bottle of brake fluid left over I always put the lid back on after topping up would it be right to keep it or will it be contaminated by the time the next change comes around?
#10
Regards the unused BF, make sure you cap it tightly (get ALL the old foil seal off, to help with the sealing).
My own rule of thumb is not to use opened BF unless it's been less than a year from when it was opened. (I write the Freshness Date on the bottle. ) But with three cars and a track car to maintain, my BF doesn't get that old. (On the track car, we flush the fluid three times a year.)
#11
That's a good idea I'll do that today though as you have more cars I only have the 1 haha I may have to chuck it.
Yeah I kept going a little longer to keep pushing through the new fluid plus I though I'd try use all of it up cause I new I may have to waste a full bottle after opening
Yeah I kept going a little longer to keep pushing through the new fluid plus I though I'd try use all of it up cause I new I may have to waste a full bottle after opening
#12
I have an auto so clutch fluid isn't a worry.
yeah I was going to buy 2 500ml bottles of castrol they are $9 a bottle and a bleeding kit is $8 which is just a bottle with tubes and extensions for different size valves on the brakes and doesn't allow air to go back up into the brake line when the brake pedal is depressed.
When you say under the pedal that's just to stop you from pushing the pedal to far down right? I could just gently push the pedal down just half way instead?
yeah I was going to buy 2 500ml bottles of castrol they are $9 a bottle and a bleeding kit is $8 which is just a bottle with tubes and extensions for different size valves on the brakes and doesn't allow air to go back up into the brake line when the brake pedal is depressed.
When you say under the pedal that's just to stop you from pushing the pedal to far down right? I could just gently push the pedal down just half way instead?
#13
An additional benefit (although not a big factor in street cars) is the higher boiling point.
++++++++++
If you are conscientious about Honda's three year replacement recommendation, DOT 3 is fine. Honda brand brake fluid is reasonably priced when purchased from the discount Honda parts dealers.
Last edited by Carbuff2; 07-30-2015 at 07:43 PM.
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