Looking for some info on an engine swap using the L15A engine and MT trans from a GE8. I have searched the forms but no one seems to be talking about using the fit L15A engine, rather replacing it. No one wants to talk about imobilizer or security features either for obvious reasons.



What I really need to know is what parts from a wrecked fit I’ll need to swap the engine and trans into a classic mini? I am guessing the: Engine, Trans, Clutch slave cylinder, Engine wiring harness with O2 sensor, ECU, Shifter assembly with cables.



Will I also need the body controller, ignition/key for the imobilizer? Is the imobilizer in the Multiplex Control Unit (MICU) in the body wiring harness? Is there anyway I can remove this from the system? Will a hondata, ktuner or ECU flash fix the imobilzer and key requirements?



I would like to make the electronics and components as simple and compact as possible. I do want to keep the AC compressor but can wire that separately as I don’t want to bother with any climate control logic or interior setup. I do like the idea of using the ac compressor with the reversing valve from a heat pump setup to get heat and ac into the car using the same in cabin heat exchanger. I suppose I’ll need to wire in an OBD port for engine diagnostics/tuning.



Thanks for any input.

 

it's because its sorta waste of time to do swap w L15A. Engine swap is hard as it is, no one wants to do it with a weaksauce which is L15. Its more expensive but a K20 or K24 swap into mini will be same amount of work for you but 2x the HP (maybe 2.5x w mods). general consensus is your wasting your time, do it right first time.

 

Thanks for the reply. I was worried the board and the Fit community had dried up. I see where you are coming from, if I was driving a Fit I would be looking at a K swap all day long. But I’m looking for an engine for a classic mini and think the L15 is my best option. My logic is listed below, be warned most of the data is from the web so there may be mistakes.



Performance and reliability:

My car came with an 850cc engine pumping out 33hp. Even a later 1275cc engine built for racing only puts out ~95hp. So a stock L15 at 109hp for a car that’s a thousand pounds lighter than the fit will be plenty for me and more than most race cars of the type. The high hp K/D/B series swaps seems to be poor driving with massive torque steering and unstable at best with the tiny wheelbase.



Weight:

The Honda fit is the lightest of the engines considered and may even be lighter than the stock A series engine. This is nice since I want to keep the original rubber cone suspension.

Weights:
D15a 350-380lbs

K20a 440-480lbs

L15a 315-343lbs

BMC A series 340lb (wet)



Packaging:

I don’t want to hack up the car (firewall or having to extend the nose of the car like some engine swap kits require) and the L15 is one of the few available engines that is the same or smaller to fit the engine bay.

Engine and manual trans LxWxH in inches:

D15a: 25.2 x 23.6 x 22.4

K20a: 24 x 19 x 22

L15a: 22.5 x 19.1 x 22.5

BMC a series: 27 x ~14 X 25



Availability:

The stock engine is not redily available this side of the pond and shipping is prohibitive.

The Honda L15 is starting to show up at the wrecker for attractive prices.



Other items:

Engine mass shifted to the passenger side to help out the corner weighting, exhaust manifold at the back to shorten exhaust routing and keep the heat out of the engine compartment. Etc.

 

I have never seen it but I like the idea.

 

The L15 seems like a great fit for the classic Mini, especially if you're aiming for a balance of performance and reliability without going overboard on power. The size and weight are definitely advantages for keeping the car nimble and avoiding the need for extensive mods. Plus, the price and availability at wreckers make it a smart choice. Should be a fun swap

 

Thanks Mike and Grubsoon.



Would anyone be able to grab a couple measurements off their engine? I’m looking for the width of the cylinder head and the width of the intake runners. With those measurements I can scale from some engine pictures and see how tight the engine would be in the mini subframe and engine bay without having to buy one at this point. There is a strengthening rib about mid way up the firewall that the engine subframe mounts to that I’m worried will interfere with the transmission output.



I’m also curious if the GE fit auto trans half shaft will bolt up on a manual tans and engine pairing? Seems to be a good way to reduce torque steer. I will need to make custom driveshafts for my project anyways so that’s not an issue for me. What I’m wondering is if the AT output is in the same place as the MT so the half shaft mounting bracket will still line up with the bolt holes in the engine block and if the AT output is the same as the MT.

 

I really like your project and would guess that the L15A is probably a nice option for a vintage mini. If you want more hp, I would think with some basic porting/polishing and maybe a header/exhaust and some ECU tuning with Hondata or similar, you might be able to get another 10 HP out of the L15A. I recall there's users who've turbo'd the stock engine up to 150hp +/-. I've driven a '65 Cooper S with a hopped up 1275 and it had plenty of power and bordered on scary. I can't imagine you'd want a Honda K-swap with any extra power and thus the L15A should be a very compelling option.

 

Thanks seattleguy,



I’m looking at the second gen GE/GG (2009-2013) L15A. It has the integrated exhaust manifold (AKA headifold). I’m not sure if that would mean there is more or less opportunity for gains with a port and polish job. It will be pretty nice in terms of getting the exhaust routed out of the engine bay.



I have been looking at the Hondata and others but am still not sure if I can use it to replace the entire fit electronics setup. I would like to keep the electrical to a bare minimum.

 

I don't know the GE's L15 engine very well... I've done tune ups on friends' GEs, but have done a lot more on my GD. You can get headers for the GD L15A as well as performance intake manifold. I have no experience with Hondata, but am a huge fan of keeping electrical to a bare minimum. For any modern Honda engine, you'd likely, at minimum, need an ECU, but you'd need to find a Honda tuner to better understand what's required and possible. I look forward to seeing if you actually go with the L15A engine in your old Mini and how you address the issues and challenges! I had a friend many many years ago who was a vintage Mini specialist, and he was telling me about a front subframe being designed to bolt-in Honda engines to vintage Coopers. Sounded like there was some cutting into the vintage Mini. But I lost track of him.

 

Hey Seattleguy

There is a stiffening cross member on the upper part of the firewall I’m concerned will interfere with the GD header. The GE single exhaust pipe may line up with a tapper in this cross member so it may fit better. I would rather have the metal valve cover from the GD but the GE has a little more power, continuously variable cam timing and 6 speed MT.



I downloaded a free app called Polycam that makes 3D scans just using the camera and lidar on your phone. I just did a couple quick tests on the car and subframe below. The results are probably good enough to go to the wrecker, scan an engine and see if it will fit in the engine bay in a CAD program.



There is quite a few subframe kits available commercially that allow you to bolt in a Honda B,D&K series engines. Unfortunately they require you to cut up the car and intake manifolds to install them. I’m also not interested in the reported torque steer they produce. I want to try installing an AT jack shaft on the MT engine/trans combo to keep the torque steering to a minimum but compatibility and engine bay space may not allow that.