Yeah, I have ran it past him a few times.. we will see what he says thsi weekend.. Plus we are looking into getting some grounding kits they would be like $55 shipped.. we need somebody to do measurements.. maybe you could do that for us?

 

I most likely will do the measurements for the grounding kit. I'm going to make one myself, but I think I'll make it a few kits..

 

so where's all the VS3 owners at?

I went to austin and back this passed memorial weekend. I think I got somewhere about 25+ more miles to the tank. Maybe 30. I dunno. I kept forgetting to reset the tripmeter. But It used to take me 3/4 of a tank to drive to Austin. This time, both ways, to, and back, it only used a little more than half a tank.

I'm pretty much happy with this thing. Works great... Oh and driving with the A/C on isn't a headache anymore. It actually has more power than before with the A/C on.

 

umm not to sound like a retard or anything but what does a voltage stabilizer do?I mean im guessing it stabilizes,lol.But is it not stabilized enough before?

 

Isn't a voltage stabilizer just a fancy Capacitor?
I have run 1 to 15 farad capacitors (rated at usually 14 to 14.4 volts) in my car(s) for like 7 years for audio equipment and while I will attribute good cold morning starts to it, I never noticed any difference in my gas miliage or how the vehical runs with or without the audio equipment plugged in.

If you swapped out the Fit battery for one with a higher cold cranking amp rating wouldn't you get a similar effect as the voltage stabilizer anyway? Most of the things people are describing are symptoms of weak amp output (ie. dimming headlights, power loss when the air conditioner kicks in, ect). Or is the purpose to try and stabilize the voltage output of the battery itself? (Yes I do realize they are called "Voltage Stabilizers", but my question is more directed at what voltage output these units operate at)

 

you may want to check out this thread:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ghlight=puzzle

and this one:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/aj-r...abilizers.html

This is an ongoing debate...

 

Ahh, I see. Probably best to stay out of this one

 

woot woot the more the merrier!

 

Iam not claiming +HP or +TQ , this will just make all the eletrical signals in the car clearer, and since this is a Drive By Wire car, it helps alot IMO

 

Is there any electrical specifications availaible for this unit?

 

Yup.. Just gives you cleaner electrical current through all of your electrical system components.

But Like I said, it gave me alot more miles to the gallon. I haven't really gone out and test out how much actual miles I've gained but it was a significant change.

 

Interesting theory; by "cleaning" the voltage in your vehicle your components will operate at a maximum efficiency. Believe it or not I am in agreement that your car would operate better under those circumstances. I have used lots of car audio equipment in the past that was very sensitive to voltage, it wouldn't surprise me that with the electrical components going into cars today they would probably operate more efficently with a consistant 14V source.

But I am still skeptical because from a technical point of view, a DC parallel voltage regulator tends to be quite parasitic. In order to stabilize voltage using that type of a circut, it must eat up otherwise usable interference energy. You would technically end getting less MPG because your alternator would be working harder to make up for the loss.


Speaking of which; the alternator is generally the major source of most vehicle electrical interference, why isn't this device attached there?

Has anybody actually taken the time to use a voltmeter and do some tests on these products yet? Links to articles?

 

The same goes for why Honda only uses a 60 amp alternator. Because its good enough.

In the past with a 94 Civic, you could turn the a/c on, hazard lights, the stock radio, headlights and anything else you could think of, and THEN honk the horn, and the lights would dim.

Same for brakes. Just good enough. Put four people in the car with some luggage and watch the rotors begin to overheat.

 

[quote=Sugarphreak;147469]Speaking of which; the alternator is generally the major source of most vehicle electrical interference, why isn't this device attached there?


The Stabiliser is hooked directly to battery poles, therefore in parrallel with the output of the alternator, only a couple of feet away. It helps the battery in stabilising the unwanted AC noises that went passed the bridge of diodes from the Alternator. I cannot see how it could do any harm, but not sure about MPG gains that are claimed from fellow members either!

 

lol, I have no idea what to make of this gadget I searched for independent tests & articals, but all I found was forum upon forum of people either bashing or supporting them.

Interesting enough, Buddy Club is even offering one, except they call it a voltage condenser Impressive dyno claims behind it too . It comes with "Exciting Blue LED Illumination"
Buddy Club Racing Spec Condenser

 

my usual drive from San Angelo to Austin TX, it takes me 3/4 tank of gas to and back. But when I put on the VS3, it only took 1/2 a tank. With some pedal to the metal driving.

That's from my real experience..

 

Wow, that is pretty impressive. If you get the chance you should run some controlled tests on it with special attention to temp and humidity.

 

does it have a capacitor in it or is it equal to a capacitor like you would put on an amp??? anyone have an idea

 

It probably has multiple small capcitors inside besides some other electronic circuitry.

Some of you guys are way too anal about this.....meters, temperature, barometric pressure, etc.......PAALLLLEEEEAAAASSSSEEE.

I believe it works, that's why I bought it and am using it.

As for grounding kits, get 4 ga power cable with some nice rings terminals and solder the ends and your done. I used multiple 4 ga wires along with a single 1/0 cable. Car runs smooth, plain and simple with these mods as well as the ignition booster from T1R.

 

I agree with you on this point. The supporters are going on faith, and the doubters are looking to science for answers. My car is going farther on a tank of gas ever since I installed my JDM coin tray, I've got the gas charts to prove it, and it was a lot cheaper that one of these electrical doohickeys. I don't know the technical details about how the coin tray works, but I believe in it, and I'm not taking it out now.

For those people who have added lots of aftermarket electronics, upgrades to the electrical systems are probably warranted, and an item like this might give back mileage that they gave away for the other accessories. I don't believe that these things can make any measurable improvements to the stock set up.

I know I'm going to get flamed for this, but I don't understand why people demand dyno charts before they consider a CAI; but with other stuff, the advertising verbiage is good enough.

Eric

And in case you can't tell, I'm in the science camp...